Screws when I want nails (cosmetics)

[julianf]

I'm doing another floor like this one -

I'd like to use the same, traditional, nails, that look like this -

But the floor is on an upper level and I don't want to be hammering up there.

I'm wondering what my best alternative is.

The photo of then nail above isn't actually what I have. Mine are the coffin shaped ones that bind on the wood, and stop pull through.

Cut wire nails, or those pin head decking screws would pull though, I think, as the boards twist and bow.

Possibly some sort of steel (grey) slot headded screw would do it. Or maybe put an acro under each joist as I hammer in the nail... But that will take forever...

(Old timbers, set into cob walls - I just don't want to shake it all up more than I have to)

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I'm doing another floor like this one -

View attachment 199552 View attachment 199553

I'd like to use the same, traditional, nails, that look like this -

But the floor is on an upper level and I don't want to be hammering up there.

I'm wondering what my best alternative is.

The photo of then nail above isn't actually what I have. Mine are the coffin shaped ones that bind on the wood, and stop pull through.

Cut wire nails, or those pin head decking screws would pull though, I think, as the boards twist and bow.

Possibly some sort of steel (grey) slot headded screw would do it. Or maybe put an acro under each joist as I hammer in the nail... But that will take forever...

(Old timbers, set into cob walls - I just don't want to shake it all up more than I have to)

Pilot drill then nail?

 

[TechnicAl]

https://www.fastenright.com/brand/shear-snap-off

anything here any good

 

[cheb]

If you deeply countersank each screw you could either glue a metal disc into each hole or use a blob of metal loaded epoxy resin.

 

[DAPPH]

Pilot drill then nail?

Even to the extent of two small pilot hole so the web between the two collapses under a little bit of pressure .

I would do it different though , using stainless screws , torx head if available, lubricating the screws with bee's or candle wax , in sunken pre drilled holes using a proper profiled hole drill ( have a few handy , for drilling oak can be rather hard on such bits & and put glued in oak plugs over the top of them with the grains running the same as the planks .

These are what I'm talking of if you use a brace & bit rather than a power tool you can wind them in a hole that has a countersunk bottom nice & tight without damaging anything & glue in a plug that can be cut off with a pull saw or take them off with a chisel or sander if you cut the plug stockwood thin enough .

https://www.fastenright.com/securit...tx-countersunk-self-drill-security-screw/tx07

 

[mtt.tr]

i would think you are best counter boring the screws then just glue a nail head in the bore

 

[colnerov]

Round head wood screw, don't bury it, then grind the top off down to the bottom of the slot. This doesn't make for easy lifting later, OK if it's not going to be you.

Colin

 

[8ob]

I would try one of those nails on the end of an air chisel, it would get them home without beating the joists to death. May have to grind up a chisel to suit the head of the nail but they are as cheap as chips.

Bob

 

[Parm]

I would try one of those nails on the end of an air chisel, it would get them home without beating the joists to death. May have to grind up a chisel to suit the head of the nail but they are as cheap as chips.

Bob

Will that technique vibrate the hell out of the floor?

 

[Olderisbetter]

I have screwed thick flooring down usually old scaffold planks and made the screw go 20mm from the surface and super glued used cut nails that have been chopped down to give the effect of a old floor finish

 

[roofman]

I'm doing another floor like this one -

View attachment 199552 View attachment 199553

I'd like to use the same, traditional, nails, that look like this -

But the floor is on an upper level and I don't want to be hammering up there.

I'm wondering what my best alternative is.

The photo of then nail above isn't actually what I have. Mine are the coffin shaped ones that bind on the wood, and stop pull through.

Cut wire nails, or those pin head decking screws would pull though, I think, as the boards twist and bow.

Possibly some sort of steel (grey) slot headded screw would do it. Or maybe put an acro under each joist as I hammer in the nail... But that will take forever...

(Old timbers, set into cob walls - I just don't want to shake it all up more than I have to)

I love the look of that floor mate..looking at the fire hearth height have you fitted them boards over the existing floor?

 

[Parm]

I’ve seen it for real, it really suits and fits well with the age and style of the building

 

[julianf]

I love the look of that floor mate..looking at the fire hearth height have you fitted them boards over the existing floor?

No. Whole lot is new. Even the sleeper walls underneath were rebuilt. The lime plaster you can see on the walls is new too (but I didn't build the plastered walls - someone did them in the 1800s or before - noone is too sure)

Floor is structural. I costed it up, and it was cheaper to put in this one than to lay even the most budget laminate stuff over chipboard.

Hearth is a constructional hearth (is that the right name, I forget?) - ie solid down to the ground. Hearth is all correct doc J clearence etc.

Slate is set at that level for two reasons - a) it's less imposing, and, b) it means you don't have to trim the edge, where the holes are (that the cussion fixings or dowels attatch)

If you took up the boards (or the slate was higher) you would see the line of holes along the facing edge.

I have in mind that the scaffold boards cost me £65, and the full size slate bed snooker table was the princely sum of £26 off eBay.

I think the tub of wax was the single most expensive item.


As a side note, I used the same slate under the Rayburn in our kitchen. But on the cooker, you want to raise it up slightly anyway. So I had to trim and finish the edge... With a 4" grinder... : ( I remember having to turn the slab with an engine crane and then line up the cut on the other side as best as possible, as I was too skint, at the time, to just go and buy a 9"!

 

[julianf]

I posted these years ago here, but they're relevant again, I guess -


One 1970s gas fire removed -

(Note the green shag carpet and tasteful stick on veneer...and, of course, the wood chip wall paper)

One beam replaced (reclaimed elm) -

One Rayburn to be connected -

The plaster around that is lime too, but a different texture to the stuff in the lounge.


The slate goes on and on -

(It's not supposed to have plants in it)


I'm actually just about to use up the last of the slate on a current project. The final bits will go on some window sills, a step, and a door threshold. You get a lot of slate out of a full size 12x6 snooker table!

 

[roofman]

I posted these years ago here, but they're relevant again, I guess -


One 1970s gas fire removed -

View attachment 199658
(Note the green shag carpet and tasteful stick on veneer...and, of course, the wood chip wall paper)

One beam replaced (reclaimed elm) -

View attachment 199656

One Rayburn to be connected -

View attachment 199655

The plaster around that is lime too, but a different texture to the stuff in the lounge.


The slate goes on and on -

View attachment 199657

(It's not supposed to have plants in it)


I'm actually just about to use up the last of the slate on a current project. The final bits will go on some window sills, a step, and a door threshold. You get a lot of slate out of a full size 12x6 snooker table!

You made it all work brilliantly bud..well done

 

[hotponyshoes]

What about going for a contrast between old and new and use something like a modern stainless screw with a big head?

 

[Seadog]

Left-handed, too

 

[hotponyshoes]

Anti-theft!

 

[Parm]

Left-handed, too

Well spotted Graham

 

[Parm]

Anti-theft!

Who’s gonna nick his floor boards?