nickyclueless
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hi just bought a secondhand sealey sr12 spotwelder with timer box. does anyone have an operation booklet which was sold with this kind of item hanging about that they would like to sell?
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Paul G
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If you log on to the Sealey website you can download the instructions.
As I understand it there are two models.
A 1mm to 1mm 3800amps, and a 2mm to 2mm 6300amps.
( I have a Spotmatic 2mm to 2mm 7000 amps )
The workshop test for a spot weld is to cut a couple of strips of scrap and place them
like the hands of a clock at 20 past 8.
Put a single spot where they overlap and break the spot by forcing the strips to
half past 6. You will have to wriggle them backwards and forwards a couple of times before it breaks.
If the spot weld is perfect this should tear a hole in one piece and leave a "nugget" on the other.
Do this for various thicknesses and take note of the settings.
I sharpen the tips to 4mm diameter and re-sharpen when they have squashed to 5mm.
I only use mine during daylight hours as it momentarily dims the lights in my house and the one next door.
The morning after the first time I used it the lady next door asked my wife if our lights went funny last night.
Nooooo, she said. Bless her.
Paul G
As I understand it there are two models.
A 1mm to 1mm 3800amps, and a 2mm to 2mm 6300amps.
( I have a Spotmatic 2mm to 2mm 7000 amps )
The workshop test for a spot weld is to cut a couple of strips of scrap and place them
like the hands of a clock at 20 past 8.
Put a single spot where they overlap and break the spot by forcing the strips to
half past 6. You will have to wriggle them backwards and forwards a couple of times before it breaks.
If the spot weld is perfect this should tear a hole in one piece and leave a "nugget" on the other.
Do this for various thicknesses and take note of the settings.
I sharpen the tips to 4mm diameter and re-sharpen when they have squashed to 5mm.
I only use mine during daylight hours as it momentarily dims the lights in my house and the one next door.
The morning after the first time I used it the lady next door asked my wife if our lights went funny last night.
Nooooo, she said. Bless her.
Paul G
nickyclueless
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Thanks Hitch and Paul for replying. I'm going to try the sealey website now, fingers crossed, I'll let you know how I get on. 
nickyclueless
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booklet
Many Thanks Wallace, I have downloaded the information but unfortunately the sealey sr12 spotwelder has a seperate timer box which plugs into the mains electrics. It seems to me this spotwelder must be prehistoric because even sealeys website only covers more recent ones! Thanks again
Nicky
Many Thanks Wallace, I have downloaded the information but unfortunately the sealey sr12 spotwelder has a seperate timer box which plugs into the mains electrics. It seems to me this spotwelder must be prehistoric because even sealeys website only covers more recent ones! Thanks again
Nicky
nickyclueless
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update - no success on the sealey website, it must be a prehistoric welder sr12 which still uses a seperate timer box
nickyclueless
nickyclueless
Paul G
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I'm not the sort of bloke that follows instructions, preferring to do a test spot as described in my earlier post and go by that.
I don't have a book for my Spotmatic but there are charts printed and fixed to the machine.
I've attached photo's of the charts if that is of any help.
I have 300mm arms and set the force ( D ) to 60mm, 4mm tip diameter, and go from there.
Example:- Welding 0.9 to 0.9 stainless a time of 0.1sec will give me a breakable tack.
0.3 sec will produce a weld that will rip the material before breaking.
If you wish to use yours on car bodies then cleaning the metal is soooo important.
A resistance weld requires good electrical contact between both the electrodes and the material and
between the two sheets to be joined. They don't like paint, underseal or rust.
Hope this helps.
Paul G
I don't have a book for my Spotmatic but there are charts printed and fixed to the machine.
I've attached photo's of the charts if that is of any help.
I have 300mm arms and set the force ( D ) to 60mm, 4mm tip diameter, and go from there.
Example:- Welding 0.9 to 0.9 stainless a time of 0.1sec will give me a breakable tack.
0.3 sec will produce a weld that will rip the material before breaking.
If you wish to use yours on car bodies then cleaning the metal is soooo important.
A resistance weld requires good electrical contact between both the electrodes and the material and
between the two sheets to be joined. They don't like paint, underseal or rust.
Hope this helps.
Paul G
Wallace
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- Staines, Middlesex, England.
Sorry, my mistake as I was looking at the SR123 which is identical to my Clarke CSW13T. I have an old PW spot welder with a separate control box, the PCB inside is marked British Federal and I have all the paperwork for it too including wiring diagrams. I doubt the Sealey SR12 is a rebadged PW but you never know, have you looked inside the control unit or have any photos?
nickyclueless
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Hi folks
hopefully i've uploaded three photographs of the troublesome spot welder, no wonder i can't locate the booklet, it was more than likely written in latin!, as i've discovered it is more than 26 years old. on the timer box there is a dial and i was hoping to know what to set it too for basically car bodies as that is what i'll be mostly using it for if i can get it to work. hindsight is a marvellous thing, i wish i had bought one with a built in timer!! thanks again for your help everyone.
Paul G
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"Ideal for restoration", or maybe "One careless owner" springs to mind. 
I would take the arms out and take the tips out of the arms and give them all a good clean up, including inside the holes where the tips go.
Good electrical contact is paramount or heat is generated where it's not wanted.
It looks like its been getting too hot.
Are there wires going to the bottom arm? If so clean the terminals.
Sharpen the tips and re-assemble so that when the tips first touch you have 60mm or so between the handles. Don't adjust the clamping force nut at this stage.
Since the plate says 1+1 I assume this is a lower power model.
Set the timer to about 1/3 round the dial and stick a couple of bits of 1mm sheet between the tips and squeeze.
Break the spot (see my first post) and try again on a higher setting.
Sooner or later you'll find the sweet spot. (pardon the pun)
HTH
Paul G
I would take the arms out and take the tips out of the arms and give them all a good clean up, including inside the holes where the tips go.
Good electrical contact is paramount or heat is generated where it's not wanted.
It looks like its been getting too hot.
Are there wires going to the bottom arm? If so clean the terminals.
Sharpen the tips and re-assemble so that when the tips first touch you have 60mm or so between the handles. Don't adjust the clamping force nut at this stage.
Since the plate says 1+1 I assume this is a lower power model.
Set the timer to about 1/3 round the dial and stick a couple of bits of 1mm sheet between the tips and squeeze.
Break the spot (see my first post) and try again on a higher setting.
Sooner or later you'll find the sweet spot. (pardon the pun)
HTH
Paul G
Wallace
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- Staines, Middlesex, England.
I agree with Paul, give the whole machine a going over inside and out from plug to tips then spend some time doing test pieces and pull them apart, you will soon get to know the settings. Out of habit I set the machine up on a test piece before doing the job for peace of mind that the job welds will be good. The extra long arms that came with it can sell for stupid money on Ebay and are worth having plus the whole lot sits on a nice nice trolley you can take to the job with everything to hand! .
One mistake that can be made on air cooled spot welders is not allowing enough time between welds for cooling, the Clarke handbook recommends 3 spots per minute with a minimum downtime of 20 seconds whereas the PW I have lists a range depending on material thickness from 3spm 2+2mm to 13psm 0.75+0.75mm.
Test piece using Clarke CSW13T and 1.5+1.5mm bright mild steel sheet
.One mistake that can be made on air cooled spot welders is not allowing enough time between welds for cooling, the Clarke handbook recommends 3 spots per minute with a minimum downtime of 20 seconds whereas the PW I have lists a range depending on material thickness from 3spm 2+2mm to 13psm 0.75+0.75mm.
Test piece using Clarke CSW13T and 1.5+1.5mm bright mild steel sheet
nickyclueless
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Thanks again Paul G and Wallace, the person I bought it off is sending me new electrodes. I'm definately going to clean everything up as suggested, can I be a pain and ask you what you would recommend to use to clean up the tips and arms. If I get the machine successfully working would you recommend purchasing a tip sharpener?
Many thanks again
Many thanks again
Paul G
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Hi.
I cheated with the pic of my short arms and put the tips in my lathe.
If I didn't have a lathe I would place them over the edge of a bench and roll them along with my left hand while holding
an angle grinder with a flap disc in at 45 deg with my right.
I do have a proper tool that came with the machine but I can't recommend it as it has a curved blade, this shape ) ,
so both tips meet like this )( .
This makes it difficult to get a constant 4mm size spot.
For cleaning the ends of the arms (note the last pic) I used a 3M scotch pad.
For the bad bits maybe fine emery? Or wet & dry paper?
Just don't take metal off to the extent that the fit becomes loose.
Cheers,
Paul G
I cheated with the pic of my short arms and put the tips in my lathe.
If I didn't have a lathe I would place them over the edge of a bench and roll them along with my left hand while holding
an angle grinder with a flap disc in at 45 deg with my right.
I do have a proper tool that came with the machine but I can't recommend it as it has a curved blade, this shape ) ,
so both tips meet like this )( .
This makes it difficult to get a constant 4mm size spot.
For cleaning the ends of the arms (note the last pic) I used a 3M scotch pad.
For the bad bits maybe fine emery? Or wet & dry paper?
Just don't take metal off to the extent that the fit becomes loose.
Cheers,
Paul G
Paul G
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- Messages
- 932
Hi Mike,
Yup, they are zinc plated steel, like a lot of bolts are.
I just tap them in or out with a "toffee" hammer.
I often have to swop tips to gain access.
A short tip in the lower arm and long in the top to get up inside a tube for example.
I think between us we've done a grand job of sorting Nicky.
Next post should be pics of spot welds.
Cheers,
Paul G
Yup, they are zinc plated steel, like a lot of bolts are.
I just tap them in or out with a "toffee" hammer.
I often have to swop tips to gain access.
A short tip in the lower arm and long in the top to get up inside a tube for example.
I think between us we've done a grand job of sorting Nicky.
Next post should be pics of spot welds.
Cheers,
Paul G
Wallace
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- Location
- Staines, Middlesex, England.
Cheers, if I get time today I'll have a look at the cotters. I have loads of arms with the PW but only the two cotters and tips that are on the machine.
I'm looking forward to seeing some weld photos from Nicky. Here's some I made earlier....
I'm looking forward to seeing some weld photos from Nicky. Here's some I made earlier....
