Stop/start without chipping slag

[BrokenBiker]

whats the trick here? It's been frustrating me for a while...

I run a bead on say and outside corner, then at the end of the rod I flick it out, new one is asap, light up a few mm in front then fall back to the end of the last weld and on I go as normal...

Only problem is, when I come to chip the slag off at the end of the weld I can never get the slag off the join without really hammering on it

 

[rikrobson]

Use Mig???

 

[Paul G]

This is when the old crocodile holder comes into it's own.

 

[Sarto]

Only get peelers, or be a good boyscout and chip that slag.

Why the crocodile style rod holder is a help? Faster on the "pit stop"?

 

[BrokenBiker]

This is when the old crocodile holder comes into it's own.

I've got a croc clip holder...

Only get peelers, or be a good boyscout and chip that slag.

Why the crocodile style rod holder is a help? Faster on the "pit stop"?

The slag over the main part of the runs comes off with ease...I usually just go straight I. With a wire brush and it comes off...it's only the small section either side of the stop start that's an issue

Use Mig???

No...lol

 

[Tigman]

I always chip it and start again !

 

[Paul G]

The end of your last weld slag covering should still be red, almost still molten.
Your arc strike should be into this red slag, as at that heat it will still conduct current.

Anything else and your just TOOOOOO SLOW.

It helps to hold a handful of rods in your gloved left hand with the ends staggered so the crock
jaws just grab the nearest each time. ( Assuming right handed welder. )

 

[BrokenBiker]

The end of your last weld slag covering should still be red, almost still molten.
Your arc strike should be into this red slag, as at that heat it will still conduct current.

Anything else and your just TOOOOOO SLOW.

It helps to hold a handful of rods in your gloved left hand with the ends staggered so the crock
jaws just grab the nearest each time. ( Assuming right handed welder. )

that might be where im going wrong then...the slag is usually still glowing red when i strike up but im striking up ahead then whipping back to the slag...will see if it makes any difference monday when i get another chance to have a go

 

[Brad93]

I always brush the stop starts the. Again I've got a twist stinger so the slag is solid by the time I'm on to the next rod

 

[sardine]

I dont see how your going to have a tea break between every rod if you go on like this ?

 

[dannyp]

when on an absolute mission and theer is someone stood around looking bored, get two torches on the welder. as your comeing to the end of one rod, bring the other near to get it warm and just pass the ark over, hand the torch to minion who bungs another rod in it and hands it back when your ready for it. it is possible to grab rods with the holder sometimes but dosent allways go to plan.

the welder gets a bit upset after a while tho

 

[TechnicAl]

Youre trapping the slag. Its always best to clean stop/starts

 

[PTvor]

Err, why do you want to do this? Is it something where time is so expensive that the productivity gain is worth the effort? If so as someone else pointed out, just go for MIG if you can.

 

[BrokenBiker]

its just a technique i wanted to practice...ive seen loads of posts and videos elsewhere of people running loads of beads one after the other and just brushing all the slag off at the end...i can set the welder so i the slag just brushes off but the stop/starts are always harder to get clean...

 

[PTvor]

Yes but do these posts and videos show a weld free of slag inclusions or do they gloss over that bit?

A lot might depend on the rods you are using, like some produce pealers or welds where the slag comes off easily and others are more difficult.

 

[Rrunnach]

Stop/starts should always have slag removed prior to commencing hot work. Depending on job, of course, when I am feathering back stop/starts with 4" grinder ( I prefer using a cutting disc) disc removes slag.

 

[oilcooled :)]

Stop/starts should always have slag removed prior to commencing hot work. Depending on job, of course, when I am feathering back stop/starts with 4" grinder ( I prefer using a cutting disc) disc removes slag.

that's not so. Any good welder wouldn't waste time to chip slag on a re start on pipe or otherwise with 6013. 7018 may require feathering if your nervous of porosity.if you an inch above your restart come down with a long arc on 6013 left right on slag tighten up away you go.7018 always tight arc. If it passes xray its clean. Ever notice a good welder doesn't need a grinder. A slight dressing when he finished.

 

[Rrunnach]

that's not so. Any good welder wouldn't waste time to chip slag on a re start on pipe or otherwise with 6013. 7018 may require feathering if your nervous of porosity.if you an inch above your restart come down with a long arc on 6013 left right on slag tighten up away you go.7018 always tight arc. If it passes xray its clean. Ever notice a good welder doesn't need a grinder. A slight dressing when he finished.

You do it your way, Ill continue with best practice.

 

[oilcooled :)]

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/pipe.13654/page-8

I will. View the pictures on his thread i don't see him chipping he feathers top and bottom of pipe where welds mate.it comes down to the skill and habits off the welder.

 

[dannyp]

had some burk insisting that every time change rod you have to grind the end of the weld, hence why i started passing the ark so i chould argue i didn't stop