Striking the arc

[tombardier]

Greetings.

Delgado mentioned in my previous thread that instead of trying to strike my arcs like a match, it might be better to just tap on and off. I've found it difficult to do that. I was wondering if when you've got it down to a fine art whether you should be able to strike the arc on your first hit? At the moment, it's seemed to me that I've had to get the rod warmed up first on another piece of the work before moving and getting a new arc going on the bit I want to actually weld. I'm getting the rod stuck, and I've had to ditch a couple of rods that have started to warp and melt so much I just had to let go of them from the clamp.. Been watching some vids call 'through the welders lens' on youtube, and that guys seems pretty handy at getting the arc going first time. Just wondering if it's more difficult with me e6013s? Any tips welcome

edit: perhaps I could warm up the end with a lighter/torch or something to make it easier as well?

 

[Welderpaul]

You don't mention what amps you are using, and what size rod. It sounds from your description that your amps are very low, therefore you are struggling to get the arc struck. For example, a 2.5mm rod wants to be at around the 100 amps mark.
6013's are a general purpose rod, and should be quite easy to strike. Cheapy rods may make starting the arc a little difficult. I always find the arc can be struck by tapping the rod once or twice on the workpiece, just at the beginning of the weld. Rods that have been warmed in a quiver are easier to strike, but heating rods should not be necessary for general welding works.
The welding set itself can also make a difference. An inverter welder makes striking the arc easier with all their fancy elecktrickkery inside.

 

[Furry Freak]

Tombardier, what you describe is exactly the problem that I get; or certainly got until recently. WP is right, more amps, easier to strike. I find 1.6 mm rods a nightmare all the time. But 2's and 2.5's with 100 amps or more does get easier. I'm sure that much is down to technique, rod quality, amps and metal prep. I'm getting better, I have even rubbed the tip of the rod with a file which helped. But I too have used the 'scratch pad' as I call it to get the rod nice and sparky so that it strikes on the workpiece first time. MIG is so much easier I guess but I still use my stick too. Only been welding a couple of months but practice does make perfect that's for sure. But it's no substitute for good gear! I had some Clarke rods to start with and then bought some better ones from my local suppliers and definitely found a difference in use and in the finish. I tend to find that a slightly tentative strike tends to stick more than a real bold one, like you mean it!

FF

 

[tombardier]

ah, I've been using 2mm rods at 60 amps, so perhaps I'll bump it up a bit to 80. The brand of rod is 'Atlantic', I don't know if they're good or not?

 

[Furry Freak]

I have to say that at those settings my little Clarke will only just about sustain an arc. I know that striking is a bit of an arc, but if once you get going, it's just about impossible keep it lit, then you need a bit more juice, I think. One you get experienced doubtless you will be able to back off a little, but no sense struggling to start with. Or ever, really.

FF

 

[tombardier]

I must say that I haven't struggled at all to keep the arc going, just to get it going, but I guess it depends on the machine. I've got a sureweld 140, that goes from 60 to 140 amps. The metal itself has been quite thin, and I've been getting good penetration on it. I've not idea if that sureweld machine is a good quality one? It's certainly quite a small and basic box, that's all I can say I think I might get myself some e6011s to try as well, as they're supposed to be a fast freeze rod, and the e6013s a filler rod. Having both should be quite versatile I think

 

[Furry Freak]

Waaaay out of my competency to answer any of that. As I said, still new and shiny at this. Mine only goes to 115 amp. It's a 13 amp machine plugged in to a 3 pin socket. My MIG is 180 amp and good for anything that I'll come across. But here is as such a wealth of experience on here and very helpful at hat too. i have had nothing but helpful advice that has all worked so far.

LC

 

[shenion]

6011's are deep penetration and would be difficult on thin metal.

If you can find them, 7014's are medium-low penetration rods and are easier on thin metal.

 

[nfinch86]

Striking an Arc !

Hey Guys; I'm new here , i'm from Canada. Anyway with a DC. Rod strike like a match, & an AC. rod Tap it.
Hope this Helps.

............ Norm :

 

[Nathan]

When you strike try keep the rod under about 2inch to maintain the arc this alows to just touch then weld. also try starting of on a high setting as is much easyer to strike. also a few rubs on the clamp to get it going :]

 

[nfinch86]

When you strike try keep the rod under about 2inch to maintain the arc this alows to just touch then weld. also try starting of on a high setting as is much easyer to strike. also a few rubs on the clamp to get it going :]

Total Nonsense !!

........Norm

www.NormsMobileWelding.Blogspot.com

 

[Wozzaaah]

That would have to be a seriously high setting to maintain a 2 inch arc!
I'm guessing Nathan means millimetres?

A few light strikes on the clamp is a good idea though.

 

[malcolm]

Total Nonsense !!

How would you answer the original question? Fair enough if you think someone else has it wrong, but your own opinion is useful. Would get rid of the posibility of a mis-read too.

 

[nfinch86]

Stricking an Arc !

How would you answer the original question? Fair enough if you think someone else has it wrong, but your own opinion is useful. Would get rid of the posibility of a mis-read too.

Malcom Hello; I answered the original question in post #6 !!

The nonsense I referred to was Cranking the Amps Up to get the Arc going , what do you do then , Stop & turn it Down ??

Rubbing the Electrode on the work clamp, ( what for ? )

To Start to weld, begin with Clean Steel ( NO rust, Oil, Paint, Etc., Etc. )
as Stated earlier for a DC. Electrode scratch like a match, For an AC. Electrode TAP the Electrode to get your arc started !!

When you have your Arc going keep an even Arc Gape of 1/16"- 1/8th" , moving Steady watching your weld bead ! Not Too Slow or Too Fast !!

I Hope This Helps !!!

............ Norm

www.NormsMobileWelding.Blogspot.com