Tarmac Planings?

[B20]

hello.
Where I live the gravel Lane outside my House goes up to fields etc, and is a "Byway for all Traffic" owned by the Council, but they refuse to upkeep it.
Over the last 40 years years I`ve put Scalpings in the ruts/potholes and after 3 or 4 years it all disappears due to me driving over it and tractors etc going to the fields.
I have seen Tarmac Planings advertised, has anyone used this?
Can it fill deep holes say 4", does it look like Tarmac after it is compacted.
Thanks in advance

 

[awemawson]

Bring the pothole up to about 3 inches below grade with 'Type 1' VERY well compacted, then restore to surface level with planings compacted with a vibrating roller.

Pot holes individually are very difficult to eliminate - the reason that they formed needs considering. Often the 'bounce' in a vehicle suspension after an innocuous rut will form a depression, water accumulates, frost arrives, and the surface gets cracks. It then goes from bad to worse !

 

[B20]

Bring the pothole up to about 3 inches below grade with 'Type 1' VERY well compacted, then restore to surface level with planings compacted with a vibrating roller.

Pot holes individually are very difficult to eliminate - the reason that they formed needs considering. Often the 'bounce' in a vehicle suspension after an innocuous rut will form a depression, water accumulates, frost arrives, and the surface gets cracks. It then goes from bad to worse !

Thanks for your reply.
I see there are different grades of Planings(graded in mm), which one to get for the top coat.
Also what does it look like when finished.
Cheers

 

[maz0]

Funny I was just reading up on this 5 minutes ago. Someone mentioned spraying them with diesel on a HOT day then wacking if you want that tarmac/road look to it.

 

[awemawson]

That practise is often used ( . . I say NOTHING !) but the Environment Dept get rather excited if you do and they find out.

As for grade, it needs to be a mix of grades to coalesce rather like the aggregate in concrete - not all one size.

 

[Bladevane]

I’m in the same situation. We’ve filled potholes with planings then rollered them but rain and traffic erode the filled holes after time. Suggest any remedial work is done in hot weather so the bitumen is soft and will bind together as a whole (pun intended). We had some planings left over and last year in the hot summer they softened and now form a virtually impenetrable mass. I think we picked up 3 tons for around. £15 delivered by grab lorry.

 

[Sputter]

I've used road road plannings for farm tracks, laid 5" over non-woven geotextile then just tracked over with excavator and found they tend to stay in place well, particularly once they catch the sun in hot weather.

When I've used them to fill potholes in a gravel road, they haven't done so well, even after I've taken the trouble to cut the edge of the hole vertical and tamp them into place. They seem to fail at the boundary between the different materials. I've had better success using Type 1, topped off with gravel. Filling potholes slightly higher than surface of track also helps the repair to last.

 

[8ob]

No loose surface will last unless there is good drainage. We do a lot of forest and ag tracks, if the water that soaks through the surface has no where to go you are wasting your time.

Bob

This one is built up on 8" of granite chip through a RPZ.





And this one has piped shingle traps down both side that run to a ditch.





And this one drains under each of the arches of the upturned concrete sleepers.

 

[brightspark]

good old dow mac sleepers. the factory was just over the road from my house

 

[Rig Pig]

That practise is often used ( . . I say NOTHING !) but the Environment Dept get rather excited if you do and they find out.

As for grade, it needs to be a mix of grades to coalesce rather like the aggregate in concrete - not all one size.

Nomadic caravan dwellers special 'tarmac your drive' compound

 

[fizzy]

Just let it get as rough as possible - tractors and 4x4s will cope but you might deter everyone else from using it!
I had a private road up[ to my old place in the Brecon Beacons - I blocked up the ford and it became my moat! Never had callers was brilliant!

 

[Agrismith]

Putting diesel or water on the plannings makes them easier to spread as they won't bind if you can do it without you will have more success
Don't build them up level with the surface build them proud keep compacting them and leave a little hump
If you make them level they will compact further and pothole will re appear
Leaving a lump will compact level with traffic and a slight bulge is still preferable to drive over than a sharp drop
If you want a more permanent finish there are various companies that will run a heavy duty Rotavator 6 inches deep and mix it with cement dust and re compact
Its cheaper than re paving

 

[awemawson]

I disagree one one point. The diesel softens the tar that encases each little bit of stone. Once laid and compacted the diesel evaporates and the stones get glued firmly together. In many cases the planings once down for a bit are as firm as tarmac. I've got an acre of the stuff - some is down extremely firmly and some isn't ! Best bit is where the JCB dumped a load of hydraulic oil a couple of years ago !

 

[addjunkie]

My drive is a mile long, and no matter what you use, if it dont drain, your wasting your time. We use what ever we can get, last time I got 100 tons of road plainings, sometimes its very good, other times its full of big bits. Filling holes is a waste of time unless you break edges and whack in!

 

[B20]

Thank you for all your replies,
All noted

 

[addjunkie]

If you want a more permanent finish there are various companies that will run a heavy duty Rotavator 6 inches deep and mix it with cement dust and re compact
Its cheaper than re paving

I looked into this, rotavating with the stone grinder isnt too dear, but when you use the lime, makes it fairly pricey! Think they wanted 13 quid per square meter.

 

[snowcat]

Unfortunately, these roads will always move. Mines about 1/2 mile long and only has our own traffic over it and needs redressing annual but only when dry. If you can get a decent depth of planning's in then you don't have to keep putting more down, Scarify with a toothed bucket then I made a levelling rake up to drag up and down and finish.... Ideally id like to concreate I haven't 40k to spend though, so I have to put up with job for now.

 

[addjunkie]

Unfortunately, these roads will always move. Mines about 1/2 mile long and only has our own traffic over it and needs redressing annual but only when dry. If you can get a decent depth of planning's in then you don't have to keep putting more down, Scarify with a toothed bucket then I made a levelling rake up to drag up and down and finish.... Ideally id like to concreate I haven't 40k to spend though, so I have to put up with job for now.

I used a box grader last time, made a half decent job, shame weve not got a vibrating roller to follow up with. Only issue with the grader is hitting big bits put in years ago. This weekend my plan is to extend the grader sides to try to get a more level finish, also raise the rear blade a tough to make it less agressive.

Really it needs another blade adding too, perhaps next mod.