tell me about: vertical bandsaws

[whm_fab]

HI Folks,


Looking for some advise please if I could.

I want to pick up a second-hand vertical bandsaw, mainly for cutting stainless tube.

Problem is, I’m not quite expert enough on them to know what to look for and what to avoid!


So my question is, what should I be looking for? Speed range, blade size, etc etc for cutting stainless?

My budget roughly for a good second hand unit is about 500-600quid.


Thanks!

 

[AndyStobbs]

one for sale on here for £200

 

[Cyberprog]

Generally for vertical ones, it's the throat size that's the main restriction. I have a Startrite 301s at home, left to my by my granddad. It can cut metal, but not very well, and only has a 300mm or so throat. Looking at a proper metal bandsaw atm

 

[astro_al]

You need one with the correct gearing ranges for cutting metal specifically - especially if its for stainless.

Research the correct cutting speed for your anticipated material thickness (you should also buy your saw blades accordingly) and then find a machine with the correct ratios.

Anything built for wood or 'metals' which turn out to be brass / ali etc (soft metals) won't really do it.

Al.

 

[Welderpaul]

Is it not a horizontal bandsaw you need? A vertical bandsaw is not the right kit for cutting tube.

 

[whm_fab]

thanks Al for the input!

welderpaul - no, i know what you meant but im cutting pre-bent mandrel tube, so the tube wont always go in to a horizontal bandsaw in the way i need.
i need a vertical saw as i will always be cutting the bends at 90deg to the tube, ie directly through the centre point of the bend.

 

[hotrodder]

Like this...

Off the top of my head you'll want around 25 - 30 SMPM (surface metres per min) for stainless which is ~ 80 - 100 feet/min. Blade speed can usually fiddled with relatively easily- changing pulleys/adding an extra reduction gear or with a VFD if talking 3 phase etc. Blade size... tpi is obviously related to thickness of the workpiece and hardness of material, thinner and/or harder = more tpi, probably at least 14 for the sort of work being talked about? Blade width is to do with cutting radii, obviously a wider blade won't cut a small radius without jamming and if making straight cuts then the widest that'll fit in the machine = better

 

[scott0031]

I suggest you take a look at second hand strartrites, they are still the main stay of vertical saws to this day. Other makes/ brands do exist but a rarer to come across.

All metal cutting verticals i have come across are all 10 speed, 5 on a high range and 5 on a low range (5 position step pulley) A small gearbox is used to achieve the low range and to achieve the torque required for metal cutting. Its fair to say all 10 speed band saws will be metal cutting, all 5 speed or less are always for timber, plastics, and ally pending exactly what you are doing. When it comes to feet per min, it will be what it will be, given by the ten speed, speed range, so dont sit there specifically looking for a machine with x feet per min blade speed cos you will most likely have a long wait.

The down side here is you are looking for man size machine which has the rigidity to cope with something like stainless, its unlikely you will get what you want for 500 odd quid, they generally hold better than that, saying that you still get the odd private sale on places like ebay for smaller money than the dealers.

If possible you want to look at machine that has non roller guides, roller are ok and do work fine but non roller is better. A support is used that is like a wear pad. On the startrites they are often hardened and last years and give a quick action to accommodate for different blade depths

The first main thing to look for is the thing has not been dropped and the table mounting is in one piece and not cracked/ broken. This is a very common problem on bandsaws due to idiots that think the table is a handle used to move the machine. Its also fairly common for bandsaws to be dropped as they are an awkward thing to move, the first thing that gets smacked is the table. The table brackets are very expensive so be warned. You can make you own, but are normally beyond the knowledge/ equipment of most people.

secondly the band wheels themselves need to have close inspection. They have a rubber bonded tyre on the outside and these are expensive to get re-tyred. If they are chewed to bits then that should be reflected in the price. They will still work in fairly poor condition but it will affect things like the tracking of the blade and make it more tricky to adjust.

You should be aware that rounds on verticals can be a hazardous pass time. Round things like to spin and often do when starting a cut. Round has no support like a square to stop it spinning, when a cut is started and for the unfamiliar it wont wont be a pleasant experience, most likely needing some new underwear. If you are cutting bends it should not be an issue as there is part of the tube set and an angle to the blade to prevent spinning, you will still need a very good firm grip. Their are many ways to stop tube spinning but be aware of the dangers.


That's all i can think of for now.

Good luck in your search

Kind regards,


Scott

 

[whm_fab]

That’s exactly what im doing hotrodder! Thanks for the photo.


Thanks for taking the time guys to detail all the information.

The tube I will be cutting is no more than 2mm wall, 90% of the time it will be 1.5 wall, on average 45mm OD, but sometimes smaller sometimes bigger.


I’ve done a good bit of research on the blades and what I need in that area, but it’s the type/brand/model of saw I don’t have a lot of experience in which you guys have helped me a lot with, thanks a mill for that.


Thanks for the tips Scott on inspecting the saw, I will keep all those things in mind when im going to view.


So basically, I need to look for a 10 speed saw that has the capability of slowing down to at least 80 feet/min ?


Are the blades generally universal fitment into most saws? For example could I potentially get what seems like a good saw only to find it nearly impossible to find blades for it?


Thanks again guys

 

[astro_al]

Blades are easy, they just run round rubberised wheel, held in place by tension, and can be ordered to your own specification of blade material, tooth setting, length, width, breadth etc. you won't have a problem with those.

Al

 

[Stueeee]

Lots of companies will make up blades to your spec. as said. You may be lucky enough to find a bandsaw with a blade welder built in. My old Do-All bandsaw had one of these fitted from the factory.

 

[astro_al]

My startrite had a blade welder, but you're supposed to order blades made up for your machine. The blade welder is supposed to be used for splitting and re-joining the blade within a workpiece to cut out internal holes.

If you get lost, both Cromwells and MCS J&L have a custom blade ordering service.

Al.

 

[Stueeee]

My startrite had a blade welder, but you're supposed to order blades made up for your machine. The blade welder is supposed to be used for splitting and re-joining the blade within a workpiece to cut out internal holes.

Maybe that was the manufacturer's purpose in fitting a band welder to the machine, but having one, it's possible to shorten cheaply bought/scrounged longer bands to the length I need for my machine, plus I have bought 100' rolls of saw band for about £20-30, so I'll probably carry on making up my own to be going on with.

 

[Paul G]

Hi All.

I would say that a good quality fine toothed bi-metal (I use 18tpi) is a requirement for cutting thin wall stainless tube.
Also, coolant is a must and a slow blade speed if the blade is to last.

Personally I can only admire the bravery of an operator hand holding an object in a saw.
I'll stick with a horizontal saw with a vice to hold the material.

Note the vice mod in the pic.

Cheers,
Paul G