Temp Rust Inhibitor?

[ElectroFunkDaddy]

Good Day All


I am just wondering if some can recommended the correct product to use.

I am away to start stripping paint corrsion and rust from a car, but I might not get it painted for a year or two, by the time I sort out everything,

what product would you use to spraying over the exposed baremetal to stop surface rust, before it gets painted? , Slighty confused over metal oxide \ red oxide primer \ paint combinations.

probably just looking for a rattle can at the moment and also you sand this off before etch\primer\paint?

Thanks for any Advice.

 

[steveo3002]

if its indoors a dust of rattle can primer n paint ? or theres gibbs protectant

 

[ElectroFunkDaddy]

cool thanks, yea its indoors, i wasnt sure if just primer would do it,

as ive seen orangey bits coming through grey primer on other cars that have been sitting around.

maybe its just they way they have been stored,

Thanks

Si

 

[Flapdisk]

All primers absorb water mate, there is nothing worse you could do than to do what a lot of folk do and that is to prepare a panel, prime it and then leave it for weeks and months or even years before top coat or base coat.
The primer will allow water through and it will start the metal rusting and now you have top coated over a problem which will burst through your paint some time on.

The best thing to prime with is epoxy primer as it will not allow water through it, some of the epoxy primers also have rust inhibitor in them and for someone doing up a car or van one bit at a time, the epoxy primer is the answer

there you go read this
http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/32736/custom-421-epoxy-body-primer/

 

[Burdekin]

there you go read this
http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/32736/custom-421-epoxy-body-primer/

Maybe not very nice of me to do this but that's: http://www.smlprotectivecoatings.co.uk/files/library/files/DATA_SHEETS/Penguard_Primer_data.pdf and is much cheaper.

 

[Flapdisk]

Noooo that's good mate, it was the only one I knew was all, wasn't saying buy that one, just saying read what it said about epoxy primer.
Cheaper is good

I notice on the data sheets for both the jotomastic and the Penguard that it says to spray with an airless sprayer what's that about then? Also is this isso free like the rusbusters one?

 

[ElectroFunkDaddy]

Thanks a lot

I will go look into those , cheers for bieng so helpful ,

gives me a great starting point from getting the engine bay stripped and tidied up.

Thanks Again


quick side note... what equipment do i need to spray celleouse?

 

[Burdekin]

Noooo that's good mate, it was the only one I knew was all, wasn't saying buy that one, just saying read what it said about epoxy primer.
Cheaper is good

I notice on the data sheets for both the jotomastic and the Penguard that it says to spray with an airless sprayer what's that about then? Also is this isso free like the rusbusters one?

It's sold mainly to paint ships so assume they use airless systems. I would bet Rust Buster is definitley the Jotun epoxies and I sprayed the Jotamastic 80 with my 1.4mm cheapo Clarke spray gun with 15% thinners no problem. They are all Iso free which is why I think it takes a bit longer to cure.

 

[Flapdisk]

Thanks a lot

quick side note... what equipment do i need to spray celleouse?

Welcome mate, no point in repeating everything, if you look through the threads in this section there are many about spraying cellulose, but basically a compressor, a gravity fed spray gun with a 1.3 or 1.4mm nozzle

 

[ElectroFunkDaddy]

Cool thanks again

will use the search and look.

thinner i take is just thinner to thin the primer so it doesnt clog in the spray gun then lol....

 

[Burdekin]

Cool thanks again

will use the search and look.

thinner i take is just thinner to thin the primer so it doesnt clog in the spray gun then lol....

Just noticed you're in Aberdeen, I have a nice little workshop in Aberdeen also. What is the car you're doing? I have a couple of classic Volvos; a Amazon estate and a P1800 that I'm restoring and modifying. Fabrication is what I enjoy the most and have a pretty decent workshop set-up considering it's a hobby but have been enjoying this spray painting lark as well.

My understanding is the thinners help the paint settle evenly when you spray it and helps stop the paint flashing off too quickly so the paint goes down as if it is one big layer rather than lots of spray lines. It also helps it atomise through the gun as too thick won't come out properly. But I am a total newbie and this is just my take on things...

 

[Flapdisk]

That's pretty much it mates, but if you use too little the paint won't atomise and give a nice spray, if you use too much it will run as soon as it's on the panel, you can also get an effect where too much thinners will make the paint look flat, as in not shiny.
Electro there is also a painting tutorial here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm although it is a bit out of date in that it's not a gravity fed gun, those are far better as they use a lot less pressure and don't fill the workplace with overspray dust if used properly
there are also loads of vids on the tube showing how to set up a gravity fed gun

 

[langy]

That's pretty much it mates, but if you use too little the paint won't atomise and give a nice spray, if you use too much it will run as soon as it's on the panel, you can also get an effect where too much thinners will make the paint look flat, as in not shiny.
Electro there is also a painting tutorial here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm although it is a bit out of date in that it's not a gravity fed gun, those are far better as they use a lot less pressure and don't fill the workplace with overspray dust if used properly
there are also loads of vids on the tube showing how to set up a gravity fed gun

Its HVLP that cuts the overspray, not all Gravity guns are HVLP, A HVLP gravity gun will be about the same as a HVLP suction gun.

 

[Flapdisk]

Thanks Langy mate

 

[ElectroFunkDaddy]

Thanks All Again.

Given me a good start, .

hopefully get cracking this weekend and strip the car .


Cheers

 

[mike 109444]

Hi EFD I have been using the product on left of pic. Sold at Screw Fix so easy to get and cheaper if you buy several cans at once. It's a lot cheaper than the usual weld through primers and seams to work for me. Drys to touch in less than 30 mins (more like 10 mins on a warm day!)