tig welding problems

[Harry44]

hi guys, recently purchased an ac dc big welder from r-tech, started with welding mild steel, got on really well with it managed to run some nice welds and ended up pretty good.

now i want to start aluminium so bought some white tungstens (1.6mm) and some 1.6mm welding rods and got going, bit of information before i start with what went wrong - the torch is on the negative side and ground is on the positive side, i will add a picture of the rough settings i was using- i was on the ac side, and just added a rough ampage that i though would be ok. still getting use to the welder so i may of made some mistakes on the other settings

here is the welder

and here is what happened when i started on a flat piece of ally



i know the ally isn't cleaned too well so that is the first thing i will do the next time i try

the problems are:

is sounds like mig welding the cooking bacon sound and just doesn't sound like big
the tungsten melts away and turns into a ball on the end of the tip
the filler rod turns into a ball and 'runs' away from the piece onto the floor
the piece becomes sutty

i am an amateur welder so i could be making any mistake, the things i can think i am doing wrong at the moment is, not getting the metal hot enough before adding the filler, not cleaning the ally, and maybe the gas flow is wrong, running at 6 litres per minute on the flow reg

any help would be much appreciated

 

[Member 66061]

I have the same welder.
If my weld looks like that then either the tungsten is contaminated or im not getting enough gas shielding for whatever reason. Someone will be along to tell me im wrong, but i like to clean the tungsten up on my grinder then give it a good blast on a piece of scrap until it stops being smutty.
The filler balling is related to torch angle, if its tilted too far back then the heat is melting it before you get to the pool.
Google will give better advice than i can, so i will leave it at that.

 

[Brad93]

Looking at your machine youve got the amps set at 130 and youve said you are using 1.6 tungsten. That will cook them little tungstens i dont go above about 115 with 1.6 or they really start to go down hill. you need to get hold of some 2.4mm.
Itg doesnt matter what side your torch is on its an alternating current, so the torch should be left in standard EN- (Electrode Negative).

DONT CLEAN THE ALUMINIUM. It is pointless, just use the AC balance setting at about 11 o clock.

Here are the settings i would use, i dont know material thickness but if your on the pedal set it at max and control the amps with the pedal. Turn your pulse settings off, right down to minimum, turn the AC balance to about 11 o clock, AC Frequency to 120hz.
Keep tight arc, gas around 5-7lpm, i use a size 5 or 6 standard collet body set up usually.

 

[Shox Dr]

DONT CLEAN THE ALUMINIUM. It is pointless, just use the AC balance setting at about 11 o clock.

Possibly the worst advice I've heard.

Clean the work peice, the rods, and the tungsten. EVERYTHING needs to be clean

 

[Richard.]

I think what brad was trying to implement was no need to scrub it to death when generally a wipe over with an acetone dampened cloth is more than sufficient in most cases.
The whole over cleaning thing with aluminium is not needed and I certainly wouldn't be attacking it with a wire brush unless absolutely necessary. A wipe down of dust and dirt is sufficient most of the time.

 

[Shox Dr]

Learning to TIG weld is hard enough, without adding dirty material into the mix. It doesn't take long to rubb a ss brush over the job

 

[Richard.]

I'm not going to get into a debate on it but scrubbing Alu that isn't in badly weathered shape or manky etc dose not make things easier. If it wipes clean Id be inclined to leave the oxide layer alone. I believe (and by all means disagree) the ac Arc is more stable when it is lifting the oxide layer itself. Obviously there are exceptions if you've a badly contaminated part or cast etc. if the Alu is dirty or dusty etc a dampened cloth with an acetone type solution cleans it right up IMO.

 

[Shox Dr]

Neither I'm I

But... If you have never TIG welded before, then unless you are using new stock, and until you know what clean ali looks like it can only help the learner

 

[Richard.]

hi guys, recently purchased an ac dc big welder from r-tech, started with welding mild steel, got on really well with it managed to run some nice welds and ended up pretty good.

now i want to start aluminium so bought some white tungstens (1.6mm) and some 1.6mm welding rods and got going, bit of information before i start with what went wrong - the torch is on the negative side and ground is on the positive side, i will add a picture of the rough settings i was using- i was on the ac side, and just added a rough ampage that i though would be ok. still getting use to the welder so i may of made some mistakes on the other settings

here is the welder
View attachment 78585
and here is what happened when i started on a flat piece of ally
View attachment 78586


i know the ally isn't cleaned too well so that is the first thing i will do the next time i try

the problems are:

is sounds like mig welding the cooking bacon sound and just doesn't sound like big
the tungsten melts away and turns into a ball on the end of the tip
the filler rod turns into a ball and 'runs' away from the piece onto the floor
the piece becomes sutty

i am an amateur welder so i could be making any mistake, the things i can think i am doing wrong at the moment is, not getting the metal hot enough before adding the filler, not cleaning the ally, and maybe the gas flow is wrong, running at 6 litres per minute on the flow reg

any help would be much appreciated

There is no welding there so going forward to advise is not too easy. You defo want a 2.4 electrode. If your tungsten is melting away turn your balance towards the dcen side and filler balling up is a symptom of melting it in the arc rather than the pool which I don't believe you've given chance to come through. The black soot is a result of oxides been transferred across the arc so Id guess your arc length is too long. It's all "classic" stuff when your new.
Start off with a fresh electrode 2.4 and strike up keeping your arc short and filler out the way. Wait for a mirror to appear. Once you see that shiny pool start to come through, positively add fill directly in the pool at the leading edge. Don't be in rush or you'll get what your getting now. It's pretty much impossible to show you with words. Watch some vids get some tuition and get something to get you started.

 

[RichardM]

Is the alloy anodised? What thickness?

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

Wait for a mirror to appear. Once you see that shiny pool

I first practiced just moving across to get a shiny pool.

One of Jodys vids he just did a similar thing to do a preclean "no shiny pool though"

 

[Gavin Melville]

It is well worth watching Jodie's videos, look for "welding tips and tricks" on YouTube, Mr Tig - not so much. It does matter which way around your leads are, despite it being called AC the two halves of the cycle are different shapes.

One thought - is the gas clean Argon, no others gases mixed in, no draughts, inside.

Could you post a picture of the torch and electrode?

 

[Appyasme1]

It is well worth watching Jodie's videos, look for "welding tips and tricks" on YouTube, Mr Tig - not so much. It does matter which way around your leads are, despite it being called AC the two halves of the cycle are different shapes.

One thought - is the gas clean Argon, no others gases mixed in, no draughts, inside.

Could you post a picture of the torch and electrode?

Could be a small ammount of water.Try a filter on the Ar inlet to the machine