Tip and shroud gap

[scotto75]

Hi all,

Just fitted a new contact tip and Clarke shroud to my 100en and the tip end sits a few mm inside the shroud. I have undone the tip quite a lot to get the tip level to the top of the shroud, which is how I've been used to welding as it allows me to get the tip closer to the work and achieve a better sounding weld, but the tip is almost unscrewed now.

What is the most preferred position of the contact tip, flush with the shroud or slightly recessed? I am using 100% co2 so would a recessed tip help reduce splatter?

 

[mike 109444]

Think this Q has cropped up a few time and there are various views. Some even like the tip extending out side the shroud. Main point is don't have the tip loose (if you are unscrewing it to get it to come level with shroud then it must be loose) As the tip is the electrical connection between the welding wire and the welding power, you will get a poor transfer of power! If you want the tip to be closer to the end of the shroud then grind/file the shroud. To reduce the problems of splatter build up sticking to the inside of shroud, use some tip dip. Avoid tapping the shroud on something hard to dislodge build up as that is a quick way to damage the torch, swan neck or other parts.

 

[gordon stephenson]

If that is how you prefer it,and you say it welds better, trim a little off the shroud to bring it level, tips can sometimes be bought in varying lengths.

 

[Gareth J]

Don't know if it's the same, but on my Clarke, you could adjust the position of the shroud by altering the plastic/rubber neck insulating tube. You probably ought to unscrew the torch but I normally just yank/shove it in and out

 

[fixerupper]

Yes I've had this on my old cebora ,and I got it to the "sweet spot' by using a file on the shroud til it was how I wanted it ...if you unscrew the contact tip ,it might reduce the electrixy ampy wattage stuff to the tip ....just a thought ...I know nothing ...or so I'm told ...jeff...

 

[scotto75]

Cheers everyone.

The tip is a bit too loose. There is a ridge on the swan neck that stops how far the shroud can be screwed. When both are fully screwed, the tip is at least 4mm inside the shroud.

I will practice a bit with this, and then gradually reduce the shroud with the grinder until I find the best setting. I have an old shroud I can sacrifice.

Tip dip's a good call, thanks Mike.

 

[Gareth J]

You sure it's not one of these torches?
(Googled Clarke 100 en torch)
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/data/attachments/20/20002-8998801d66cd7ffc49c442e6c65aae93.jpg

If so, adjust the swan neck black insulation as I described in my other post. Shouldn't have to grind the shroud back, you'll loose the nozzle end if you do

Edit;
Oh, I've just re-read your post. It's something on the brass bit of the swan neck thats stopping you, not the black insulation. Apologies.

You can get different length tips and shrouds, I know I've had a few various lengths including some really long tips - maybe that's what's needed

 

[scotto75]

Thanks for the help johnser. The torch in that link is the same as mine. I have replaced the swan neck with a genuine Clarke hobby part. The shroud and tips were the Clarke hobby type bought from Weldequip. I've taken a few pics of the torch and done a bit of measuring.

The neck has an edge that stops the shroud being screwed any further. The tips are 18mm long with 12mm protruding/visible.

The shroud is slightly over 46mm and when screwed fully onto the neck leaves the end of the tip recessed by 3mm.

Using a shroud off a smaller hobby MIG, just over 38mm in length, I get 4/5mm sticking out.

I guess I just assumed that using the right genuine Clarke replacement products I would have ended up with the tip being closer to or flush with the top of the shroud? Seems wrong to have to angle grind the shroud or really unscrew the tip right out to get it flush?

 

[Kent]

It don't matter much many file a shroud or two back for fillet joints and such
The tip should be screwed in good though as others have said it is an electric connection point

 

[Robotstar5]

As above, the tip needs to be tight in the swan neck to pass the current, if it's loose the current will erode/damage the threads on the tip and swan neck.