Tractor mounted crane?

[lotus_esprit_s1]

I have a Massey Ferguson 135 I bought a while ago on a bit of a whim because it was going cheap.

I was toying with the idea of fitting a crane on the three point linkage. I've seen some fixed beam ones on ebay but I was thinking about modifying a workshop crane by removing the horizontal leg sections and welding two linkage pins on the bottom, and a mount to take the top link.

Has anyone done this before? My idea would be for using it to remove engines and boxes locally without having to cart the workshop crane around.

Alternately I thought about making one witha hydraulic cylinder connected to the 135 hydraulics but then I thought it might be better with a hand operated crane to allow slight adjustments as the engine or box is lifted,

Any idea welcome! Basically I'm trying to justify keeping it because so far I haven't really found a use for it!

 

[Bill Edwards]

Ditch it and at least buy a decent tractor instead.


If you do make something then I've just a couple of points to make you aware of.
Design it so that when you use the hoist it is lowered on the 3pt link and is resting on the ground. Otherwise you'll find that, at best, it will slop about sideways on the linkage, but it'll probably drop over time while you use it and that would be a complete pain.

Secondly, I'd go with a handpump. It does seem a shame when you've obviously got a hydraulic system available as part of the tractor, but it'll be easier to use,
The only way I'd use the tractor hydraulics would be to install a valve in the line that you can use to restrict the flow, otherwise when you come to nudge the lever to give 1/4 of lift it'll probably fly up 6 inches, and lowering won't be any better!
You'd also probably need a valve/tap to shut it off altogether as it'll probably drop much like the 3pt link will with weight on. My thoughts are that by the time you've done all that it's probably as easy to get a hand pump which is proven to be good for this kind of work. You also can work in peace without wasting diesel and having a noisy engine running for little reason.

 

[printcom]

It's not something that I have heard of before. I would have thought that looking for a cheap loader to bolt onto it would be more useful, at least that would give you the advantage of using pallet forks etc.

 

[blenkie1]

It would be better with a loader more uses and would get more height as well not that its not possible to fit something onto the 3 point linkage. Could put legs on it to stop it dropping. Never heard of a 'cheap 135'. Been after one for ages.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Just a point about a front end loader. Yes that can work fine (though depending on the condition of the valves and ram seals it may still drop under load, though probably not enough to be a problem) but you need to be aware that if a pipe blows the whole thing will come crashing down which is potentially lethal. Huge numbers of people work under raised loaders without incident and the odds of being crushed are obviously quite slim, but you should be aware that they do exist!

 

[printcom]

Call me a wimp - I don't care. I always use a safety strut on the ram when working under a raised loader it only take a few seconds to install. A little something a few close shaves and many years of experience has taught me

 

[Bill Edwards]

One of few I think!

But imagine the practicality of doing that while removing an engine and constantly needing to give it some tweaks and to block it at the right height, it could be a bit of a pain.

 

[julianthegypsy]

Linkage cranes used to be really common, in fact I built several when I had to assemble several hundred tractors in the middle of nowhere, back when MF 200 series were new! Use a nine hole drawbar for the bottom beam and run the main beam back to the point on the back of the centre housing, not the top link mounting point. If you're tractor's hydraulics are in reasonable shape you should be able to lift 500kgs easily and safely. Set the response control dead slow to bring things down gently and don't leave things in the air when you switch the tractor off

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

Don't really want to go down the fore end loader route, the way I was thinking is that if I do use a workshop crane then if it doesn't work as I want then I can always just bolt the legs back on and revert it to a workshop crane. Will keep it simple and not run it off the hydraulics!

I hadn't thought about the slop in the linkages, some stabilising feet are a good idea. It is mainly a means of getting. The crane from a to b without putting it in a trailer.

I paid £1500 for the 135 with an almost new Fleming 5ft linkbox. I think it is a D reg and in pretty good nick with good tyres and original metalwork. Seemed cheap to me so I bought it without really thinking what to do with it!

 

[Maker]

Couldn't you connect it to the tractor hyd' system and a hand pump so get rapid and fine adjustments?

 

[dan.taylor.1]

As said they make them still, quite common in agri auction and farm sales. Unless your hydraulic system is shot you should be able to have massive control, I can make our front loader flip a coin on the pallet forks with ease. And as for it dropping if turned off and the catastrophic drop upon busting a pipe, check valve and lockout valve, both essential if your using it with a load on and your underneath!

Dan

 

[Maker]

As said they make them still, quite common in agri auction and farm sales. Unless your hydraulic system is shot you should be able to have massive control, I can make our front loader flip a coin on the pallet forks with ease. And as for it dropping if turned off and the catastrophic drop upon busting a pipe, check valve and lockout valve, both essential if your using it with a load on and your underneath!

Dan

1 up on your flipping a coin:

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

my prior experience with tractors is a 1947 TE20 continental (Still have it!) with only a hydraulic tipping pipe which I think is very primitive so i dont really know what a slightly more modern system is capable of!

 

[Wendelspanswick]

my prior experience with tractors is a 1947 TE20 continental (Still have it!) with only a hydraulic tipping pipe which I think is very primitive so i dont really know what a slightly more modern system is capable of!

Your TE20 is one year older than mine, mines a 1948 straight petrol, unusual as it never had the TVO conversion.

 

[armalites]

I have a Massey Ferguson 135 I bought a while ago on a bit of a whim because it was going cheap.

I was toying with the idea of fitting a crane on the three point linkage. I've seen some fixed beam ones on ebay but I was thinking about modifying a workshop crane by removing the horizontal leg sections and welding two linkage pins on the bottom, and a mount to take the top link.

Has anyone done this before? My idea would be for using it to remove engines and boxes locally without having to cart the workshop crane around.

Alternately I thought about making one witha hydraulic cylinder connected to the 135 hydraulics but then I thought it might be better with a hand operated crane to allow slight adjustments as the engine or box is lifted,

Any idea welcome! Basically I'm trying to justify keeping it because so far I haven't really found a use for it!

I see no issues using the tractor hydraulics, I would put a spool valve with a flow adjuster on the crane. You will need to make sure you have a return feed to the tractor. If the tractor isn't flat out and you position the spool valve well(ie so you can move the levers smoothly) you can do very fine movements no problem at all. My hydraulic power pack has a spool valve with a restrictor and it will make the ram on my log splitter move really slowly.

 

[stormin]

Front weights either on a frame or on the wheels may be an idea with a 135. They seem very light on the front end.

 

[chevykev]

ferguson made a3 point crane for the T20