Tungsten sizes

[mm289]

Hi,
normally MIG everything on my car restorations but have been playing with a TIG recently. Don't have O/A and do a lot of custom panel work for the old stuff so want to play with TIG'ing some parts of panels where I need to join and then have a weld that has "some" ability to flex and planish out,

Anyway, thats the back story now the questions.

I am using a Telwin inverter machine, nothing special just a 175 HF to see how I get on. the manual says it takes tungstens of 1.6mm and up, but it is equipped with a Parweld WP17FX which will takes tungstens down to .5mm

So I wanted to have a play with a 1mm tungsten to see how it goes on mild steel from 0.8mm upto 1.3mm. Any reasons why I can't use a 1mm tungsten in this setup?

Or for those of you that use TIG on panels, what do you recommend tungsten wise for the thinner end, say 0.8 to 1mm steel?

Cheers,

MM

 

[Shox Dr]

1.6mm is the 'standard' smallest size. 1mm is fine but will start to fail over 80ish amps

 

[AndersK]

You can use smaller tungsten but you need to change collet and collet body (or gas lens, depending what you use) to fit the size you want.

I use 1mm tungsten for such sheet but 1,6 mm work well too.

The benefit with smaller tungsten is that it will carry low current better and then give better arc focus/stability.

 

[Richard.]

1.6 with a needle sharp point 2-3 times longer than the electrode diameter is good for anything up to 120 amps on DC 100 on AC. After that a 2.4 is good. It's only when you start getting up and beyond 200 amps you could go 3.2.

 

[mm289]

Thanks guys, any favourites for Tungstens on thin steel, thoriated, ceriated?

Cheers,

 

[mm289]

1.6 with a needle sharp point 2-3 times longer than the electrode diameter is good for anything up to 120 amps on DC 100 on AC. After that a 2.4 is good. It's only when you start getting up and beyond 200 amps you could go 3.2.

What about going the other way? Much benefit to stepping down to 1.0 mm electrode?

 

[Richard.]

Some are better but everyone has there own preferences. Ceriated are not particularly good IMO. Lanthanated are as good as any. Thoriated are a good DC electrode too.

 

[Richard.]

What about going the other way? Much benefit to stepping down to 1.0 mm electrode?

Maybe but it's never benefited me personally. I don't own or never use anything smaller than a 1.6 and I've joined a few razor blades and coke cans at the machines bottom end. The key to current carrying and arc stability/focus is mostly in the prep. I've seen too many newcomers struggle away because they can't be bothered to redress that tungsten after a touch. The arc mirrors the tungsten prep so the more narrow the point the more focused the arc a dull or contaminated point isn't worth fighting with.

 

[langy]

I like to use 1mm lathanated on sheet metal panels but also quite often use 1.6mm if its already in the torch

 

[mm289]

Thanks, need to get a few packs of Tungstens to practice with as I am running back and forth to the grinder on a regular basis so was just looking at what to get.

Got a new decent lid to try and help as well - might be easier when I can see properly

Cheers,

 

[eSCHEn]

You'll find a good view of the job with your mask will help more than dropping 0.6mm mate.

I experimented with teeny tungstens but never really noticed a difference. Like Rich says, just put a really long taper on the point of a 1.6mm and it'll do the same job

Smallest one I went to, just for giggles, was 0.4mm. Had to redress a 0.5mm collet so that it would hold it.

Wasn't as much fun as I'd hoped

 

[mm289]

I like to use 1mm lathanated on sheet metal panels but also quite often use 1.6mm if its already in the torch

Cool, want to experiment with how low I go on amps so might get a pack of 1 and pack of 1.6 and play. Are you using 1mm wire with the 1mm tungsten or still use 1.6?

Cheers,

 

[langy]

Cool, want to experiment with how low I go on amps so might get a pack of 1 and pack of 1.6 and play. Are you using 1mm wire with the 1mm tungsten or still use 1.6?

Cheers,

1mm rod bud, i can't see why you would use 1.6 rod on thin sheet

 

[eSCHEn]

1mm filler, 1.6mm will chill the pool too much (or at least I found it did).

Edit: Langy's faster than me

 

[Richard.]

1mm wire with those tungstens and at seriously low current some .8 mig wire is often needed if 1mm is a little beefy for the pool.

 

[mm289]

Thanks guys, need to get some ordered then brave the cold of the workshop. Would be in my new machine shop which is all insulated and warm if the bloody sparky who was going to connect up and Part P hadn't let me down

Cheers,

MM

 

[eSCHEn]

I forgot about the MIG wire as filler. That's what I was using on the tiny stuff (0.6mm MIG wire for the smallest).

 

[langy]

You'll find a good view of the job with your mask will help more than dropping 0.6mm mate.

I experimented with teeny tungstens but never really noticed a difference. Like Rich says, just put a really long taper on the point of a 1.6mm and it'll do the same job

Smallest one I went to, just for giggles, was 0.4mm. Had to redress a 0.5mm collet so that it would hold it.

Wasn't as much fun as I'd hoped

You will be glad of a 1mm tungsten when you get down to 24swg !!!

 

[langy]

Makes me wonder why they bother making 1mm tungstens if they are not much use ??? they allow lower start current without any jumping around and focus the arc better at low amps

 

[mm289]

Probably a dumb question but do you knock the cup size down for a smaller tungsten? Running a 5 at the moment.

Cheers,

MM