Unusual noise from compressor...?

[The Z'eer]

Although I bought my Wolf Dakota back in late may I didn't start it up until the completion of the hard piping.

The other day when on first start up, when pressurising the system a rather loud noise occurred. I can only describe to something like a balloon or some sort of inflatable exploding, a sort of pop/snapping sound. Also, a smell of plastic was noticeable afterwards.

It only happened the once, though I shut the compressor off immediately once it happened. A visual inspection proved nothing to be seemingly out of place, though it's possible it was internal.

I've run the compressor several times, it appears to operate as it should. However I do suffer a 10 PSi loss over two hours if I leave the system pressurised.

Any ideas??

Thanks

 

[dobbslc]

Sounds like a motor capacitor has popped.
The leak you'll need to find with some soapy water, I doubt the pop was anything to do with it.

 

[The Z'eer]

Sounds like a motor capacitor has popped.
The leak you'll need to find with some soapy water, I doubt the pop was anything to do with it.

Thanks for the reply there the unit appears to be functioning as it did before I initially pressurised the system.

I don't much about electrics, if a motor capacitor has popped would this be noticeable in shape or form?

 

[rtbcomp]

Capacitor was my first thought, but I reckon if a capacitor popped it either wouldn't start or the motor would run hot. A blown cap is usually obvious with a visual inspection, eg distorted case, hole in it, the end blown out, debris in the vicinity of the cap(s).

Does it take longer to reach full pressure?

 

[WorkshopChris]

Motor cap was my 1st idea when you said pop, but something else may be worth looking for. Any rubber or flexible hose.
Hoses can be made from multiple cores, they can fail between the inner and outer.
The inner leaks separating the bond between the layers this makes a popping sound. It can be seen as a lump of bubble on the hose wall.
Although unlikely it might be worth a quick look over.

 

[The Z'eer]

Capacitor was my first thought, but I reckon if a capacitor popped it either wouldn't start or the motor would run hot. A blown cap is usually obvious with a visual inspection, eg distorted case, hole in it, the end blown out, debris in the vicinity of the cap(s).

Does it take longer to reach full pressure?

You mention blown cap, can you elaborate on what and where the cap is?

With regards to the compressor and the time taken to reach full pressure, I've nothing the gauge the time against since the "pop" occurred on the initial presurising of the system. I can tell you that from 0-120 PSi it takes around 2-3 minutes, though I've not timed it.

After partially emptying the system and seeing the unit kick in to refil, if this procedure is repeated several times within a few minutes the pump and motor are warm but not scorching hot.

 

[The Z'eer]

Motor cap was my 1st idea when you said pop, but something else may be worth looking for. Any rubber or flexible hose.
Hoses can be made from multiple cores, they can fail between the inner and outer.
The inner leaks separating the bond between the layers this makes a popping sound. It can be seen as a lump of bubble on the hose wall.
Although unlikely it might be worth a quick look over.

The only hose that was in use was the whip hose connecting compressor to hard piping. Thanks for the info regarding a potential issue, I will check the hose over (hadn't thought of that)

 

[optima21]

With regards to the compressor and the time taken to reach full pressure, I've nothing the gauge the time against since the "pop" occurred on the initial presurising of the system. I can tell you that from 0-120 PSi it takes around 2-3 minutes, though I've not timed it.

slightly off topic, but if your compressor cuts out at 120 psi, your pressure switch may need adjusting, the compressors are rated at 150psi, so adjust your pressure switch to cut out then. its easy enough to do, remove the cover and adjust the bolt on top of the switch.

I think mine has a about a 30psi difference between the cut out and cut in pressures, so if it was set at 120psi to cut out, then the pressure would drop to 90psi before switching back on.

this isn't an issue with tools that work at low pressures, but ones which are greedy for air and operate at 90psi, may have the pressure available dropping until you stop using the tool, so by doing this, you will have enough presssure for short periods.

 

[The Z'eer]

slightly off topic, but if your compressor cuts out at 120 psi, your pressure switch may need adjusting, the compressors are rated at 150psi, so adjust your pressure switch to cut out then. its easy enough to do, remove the cover and adjust the bolt on top of the switch.

View attachment 117105

I think mine has a about a 30psi difference between the cut out and cut in pressures, so if it was set at 120psi to cut out, then the pressure would drop to 90psi before switching back on.

this isn't an issue with tools that work at low pressures, but ones which are greedy for air and operate at 90psi, may have the pressure available dropping until you stop using the tool, so by doing this, you will have enough presssure for short periods.

Thanks for the advice there I wonder why the compressor has been set to 120 PSi when it's rated to 150?

The bolt on the panel is tightened to increase the pressure? Is this done with the system operative or shut off?

 

[optima21]

if you remove the cover the red button on the switch doesn't work anyway. you need to have it running one it cuts out at operating pressure, use some air (or vent it using the safety valve) so that the compressor turns on again. you can do it gradually that way.

on mine the bolt is marked which was you need to turn it

 

[normspanners]

A lot of the cheaper pressure switches have a 2bar differential, generally more expensive ones have a lower diff adjustment around 1bar or slightly less.

 

[rtbcomp]

You mention blown cap, can you elaborate on what and where the cap is?

With regards to the compressor and the time taken to reach full pressure, I've nothing the gauge the time against since the "pop" occurred on the initial presurising of the system. I can tell you that from 0-120 PSi it takes around 2-3 minutes, though I've not timed it.

After partially emptying the system and seeing the unit kick in to refil, if this procedure is repeated several times within a few minutes the pump and motor are warm but not scorching hot.

The "cap" (capacitor) is a tubular device, usually black, white or blue with 2 wires connected to it. It's connected to the motor and will most likely be in a plastic box attached to the motor. There may be two capacitors in the box, start & run. It will have printing on the side, the most important being something like 400 mF, uf and 300v AC. The actual figures may vary, but keep the uF (microfarad) value the same and the V AC value the same or higher. You must use capacitors suitable for AC.

From you observations I'd say it's running fine.

If working at 120 psi suits you I'd leave it at that, I noticed my Clarke compressor works quite a bit harder above 120 so I set it to cut out at that pressure, no point in having any more wear & tear than necessary.

 

[The Z'eer]

The "cap" (capacitor) is a tubular device, usually black, white or blue with 2 wires connected to it. It's connected to the motor and will most likely be in a plastic box attached to the motor. There may be two capacitors in the box, start & run. It will have printing on the side, the most important being something like 400 mF, uf and 300v AC. The actual figures may vary, but keep the uF (microfarad) value the same and the V AC value the same or higher. You must use capacitors suitable for AC.

From you observations I'd say it's running fine.

If working at 120 psi suits you I'd leave it at that, I noticed my Clarke compressor works quite a bit harder above 120 so I set it to cut out at that pressure, no point in having any more wear & tear than necessary.

Wonderful info there, much appreciated Should I need a capacitor that info will certainly help. I did a little research about capacitors, it would seem that if either the start up or run capacitor is damaged the motor would fail to function.

With respect to the ceiling pressure, as Optima quotes it probably is helpful for more consuming tools but since I'm not using any at present I'll keep to the pre set 120 PSi. Yes, not too keen on unnecessary wear and tear either!

 

[normspanners]

have you checked your hose intimately ? ( the airline BTW)
for signs of the outer skin having a burst blister ?

 

[mike 109444]

Not sure about the smell of plastic BUT if you have **moisture traps and other devices in the system then they sometimes require a bit of pressure before they self seal and may then "pop" as they seal.
** The ones with a button/push bleed water type. You may hear air escaping from them at first.

 

[The Z'eer]

Not sure about the smell of plastic BUT if you have **moisture traps and other devices in the system then they sometimes require a bit of pressure before they self seal and may then "pop" as they seal.
** The ones with a button/push bleed water type. You may hear air escaping from them at first.

Rather that than the unit itself, I hope so Mike.

 

[Farside]

Thanks for the advice there I wonder why the compressor has been set to 120 PSi when it's rated to 150?

Stresses bits less and they last past the warranty period. After that, you're on your own.
I won't take my little cheapy up to 150, but I might do so with the other one.
Then again, I'd like them to last as long as possible, so hum.... I dunno.