Using a foot pedal

[BrokenBiker]

So...latest welder arrived today and I had a bit of a prototype to get on with...

Now, due to wrist issues I wasn't a massive fan of the fixed head wp17 on the last welder, but I got by...this welder came with a massive, moulded torch handle with a built in switch that was in entirely the wrong place for me to get comfy so I whipped it off and put my new wp17 flex head on it. Very easy torch to get comfy with, but now I have no switch, so plugged the pedal In and all seemed good.

It became apparent though that even though I spend all day in work using with hands and both feet at once, I can't seem to get it with the welder. I'm either flat out and don't think to ease off so end up traveling way too fast, or I do remember to ease off then forget to ramp up again and end up going incredibly slowly and cooking the part. Thankfully it was only a bit of scrap box section and a few nuts so no real issues.

Anyone got any practice drills I can try so I can get my head around letting my foot work properly? I am fine tapering off at the end of a weld, just not during the weld

Pics below of my first welds using a pedal, I know they are terrible but they seem strong enough for what they need to do (making compressed wood bricks from the shavings off my father's lathe)

100 amps max, 2.5 blue tungsten, 1.6 filler, no 5 cup and some vague attempt at using a foot controller.

First weld with this machine, strangely I struggled with tacks on the other machine, easiest thing in the world with this one. Bodged the start and the middle but overall, better than I expected

Slightly better on this side

Welded a nut to a plate that will slide inside, and damn that's ugly

Then stuck a nut on some all thread to make the bolt that's going to pull the plate, no filler on this one just left the thread a tiny bit proud. (And yes, I know both nuts should have been cleaned but I had time against me)

Final item minus clean up and a splash of paint

Plates don't touch all sides of the box as there will be water squeezed out when in use

I'm happy with the strength of it, that's about as far as this one goes...starting to wish I'd used stick

 

[hotponyshoes]

Try using the pedal to up the power each time you dab the filler.
Should brain-train you that the pedal is doi g something and will get you a nice even rippled weld as well

 

[BrokenBiker]

Try using the pedal to up the power each time you dab the filler.
Should brain-train you that the pedal is doi g something and will get you a nice even rippled weld as well

Will give that a go Monday, got a few things to get on with, most are thicker steel, but will have to stick a 2mm sheet to some 5mm flat bar at some point for a little table saw idea

I will have a decent amount of flat bar left over to just run beads with and try and get into this foot pedal properly

 

[Misterg]

In my (very humble) opinion, it's a distraction for steel. Better off without it, and concentrate on the welding.

Come back to it when you're welding aluminium - things are much more changeable there, and the pedal makes sense.

 

[roofman]

What i did like when i had my TIG was being able to weld mild steel on outside corners especially, without filler for none critical stuff.

 

[BrokenBiker]

In my (very humble) opinion, it's a distraction for steel. Better off without it, and concentrate on the welding.

Come back to it when you're welding aluminium - things are much more changeable there, and the pedal makes sense.

the pedal is currently my only option for initiating the arc.

i have ordered a torch switch for when im not able to use a pedal, but that wont be here for a good few days yet

 

[Misterg]

the pedal is currently my only option for initiating the arc.

In which case, set the amps on the welder and floor the pedal every time

 

[chrismac]

In which case, set the amps on the welder and floor the pedal every time

Glad someone had suggested this by time I scrolled to the bottom of the page.

But in time you will get a feel for how much amps you need, you wont even be thinking about it, you'll be thinking about what your having for dinner in an hour or so, it will come in time. I would be using 2.4mm filler on that box section ends, set in the gap and feed it in, you'll be concentrating a lot on feeding the 1.6mm filler wire in, the less you need to think about the better.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Glad someone had suggested this by time I scrolled to the bottom of the page.

But in time you will get a feel for how much amps you need, you wont even be thinking about it, you'll be thinking about what your having for dinner in an hour or so, it will come in time. I would be using 2.4mm filler on that box section ends, set in the gap and feed it in, you'll be concentrating a lot on feeding the 1.6mm filler wire in, the less you need to think about the better.

i was actually just about to ask at what point do you drop down to 1.6mm filler as it felt like i was pushing a lot of filler in but not really filling the joint.

i practiced last week with 2.4mm rod and got reasonable results before the welder blew up, but because this was thinner steel i thought maybe a 1.6 would be better although when i started welding i realised maybe i should have just stuck with a 2.4...

that is a prototype just to prove it works at this point, if it gives reasonable results (and last more than 1 use before the welds split) with no sticking of the wood brick i will be making a new one slightly bigger and heavier duty so it can be used with an impact gun for efficiency and possibly some sort of ejector to help remove the wood afterwards, ive just got 2 bits of bar at the moment to push down the gaps...then hopefully it will get a small mount made so it can be used in the vice.

bought the old man a wood lathe for xmas and in the weeks since he has made 7 black bags full of shavings so gotta find something to do with them

 

[Turbo]

the pedal is currently my only option for initiating the arc.

i have ordered a torch switch for when im not able to use a pedal, but that wont be here for a good few days yet

I made myself a foot switch to start and stop the welder. It let me concentrate on using the torch and feeding the rod.
Once I had that mastered I used the torch button.
If you can, get a movable button that you can position comfortably.
That being said I still prefer the foot pedal for bench work.

 

[indy4x]

This might help

TIG Welding Tutorial

This tutorial is aimed at beginner and intermediate TIG welders and was developed by professionals. Videos show the techniques, and the advice explains what to look for and how to avoid common problems.

www.mig-welding.co.uk

 

[minimutly]

I never liked the button start - each time I pressed the button I would dip the torch - maybe would be better underneath the torch?

 

[BrokenBiker]

I never liked the button start - each time I pressed the button I would dip the torch - maybe would be better underneath the torch?

I had a good go today, in the region of 80 welds, getting better with the pedal but still think i prefer a switch at this point.