Vintage Saw Restoration - Saw Set

[Parm]

Will one of you folk help me with a saw set.

I’m restoring an old saw, it was very rusty, so after much elbow grease here in the Devon annex it revealed a makers mark, google and @mtt.tr tell me this is a good saw so I decided to give it the full treatment. Spent all day filling in the teeth with a lashed up jig, the stupid needle file snapped a third of the way in so I did the rest of the saw with only half a file. Talk about painful

this is it so far

Here begins the problem, I’ve bought with my my vintage but unused by me saw set, the anvil thing that pushes on the teeth is too wide and hits three teeth at a time

Is there a different type of set that I need or are they all the same?

 

[Parm]

Lashed up saw holding jig, it worked a treat apart from the wobbly table

 

[Agroshield]

Here begins the problem, I’ve bought with my my vintage but unused by me saw set, the anvil thing that pushes on the teeth is too wide and hits three teeth at a time

View attachment 246331

I have never set a saw in my life, but is the anvil the bit at the top of the third photo?

Could you JB Weld a narrow strip of metal onto it so it only contacts one tooth?

Maybe these links will provide some food for thought:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/saw-tooth-setting-advice.41756/

https://paulsellers.com/2014/03/refining-sawsets/

 

[Migmac]

The one we used didn’t look like pliers, it sat on top of the saw and you slid it along setting the teeth and sharpening them as you went. It was bought in the early eighties but I can’t recall it’s name

 

[Parm]

I have never set a saw in my life, but is the anvil the bit at the top of the third photo?

Could you JB Weld a narrow strip of metal onto it so it only contacts one tooth?

Maybe these links will provide some food for thought:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/saw-tooth-setting-advice.41756/

https://paulsellers.com/2014/03/refining-sawsets/

yep it’s the bit connected to the spring

edit, first time I’m attempting to set a saw

edit again, I’ve looked at both those links but can’t find the answer

 

[frank horton]

when u get it right I have a brass backed one that could dowith a lick.....hahaha.....
Devon....cream T\s.....mmmmm

 

[Newlands]

Use a hammer and punch, on a hardwood log. You get into a rhythm very quickly so each hit is exactly the same and the set is even all the way along. Turn it over and do the other side, job done.

 

[Agroshield]

edit again, I’ve looked at both those links but can’t find the answer

Sorry. What I took away from them is that setting tools for very fine tooth saws are not made. Either you have to do it manually with a hammer and punch or you have to modify an existing saw set. They talked of the Eclipse one as common and cheap (like myself).

 

[outofthefire]

My old man used to have one like this (not recommending the seller just the tool) i'd personally buy a new tool with instructions, that you know is right for a tenon saw with however many teeth/inch yours has got (actually personally i'd buy a "disposable" new saw for the amount of woodwork I do )

https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/Eclipse_Saw_Tooth_Setter_.html

 

[mtt.tr]

Ive never seen a set like that ive ive only used the eclipse type

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Ive never seen a set like that ive ive only used the eclipse type

They are CK made, I have 2 sets, I don't use them I have a Stanley set.
Few people I know use them.
But if set up right they can set the teeth nicely.

I don't like them

 

[Gritineye]

Old chap I used to work with could sharpen any rough old hand saw to be like new. He had a wooden wedge type clamp to hold the blade teeth upwards.

After a few quick on site sharpens the teeth would get uneven, so first he would use a flat file to take off the tops of the teeth, he called this 'ranging'

He would then use a saw file to re-cut the teeth, he got them perfectly even by eye, watching as the width of the flat tops reduced with each stroke.

After the teeth were good he would set them, and then do another pass with the saw file at the correct angle, maybe three even strokes on each tooth, keeping the pressure and length exactly the same.

This didn't take very long at all, even on a long saw, maybe 1/2 hour or so.

His party trick was to put a needle in the V so it slid smoothly down the length of the saw and out the end.

His favourite saws were taper bladed Disstons, there were American Disstons and Canadian Disstons, he said one was much better than the other, can't remember which..

 

[Bladevane]

I have an ancient Eclipse 77 which has a rotatable anvil marked up 4-12 with a magnifying lens over the selection.

 

[Parm]

Use a hammer and punch, on a hardwood log. You get into a rhythm very quickly so each hit is exactly the same and the set is even all the way along. Turn it over and do the other side, job done.

This is what last nights internet research suggested. Only problem is I don’t have a punch with me

I’m going to the car boot at 1, let’s see what I can find

 

[Parm]

I have an ancient Eclipse 77 which has a rotatable anvil marked up 4-12 with a magnifying lens over the selection.View attachment 246393View attachment 246394

been looking at this too. Although I can confirm this the one I’ve got is for coarser saws and the eclipse seems to be for finer saws.

 

[Migmac]

Whilst rummaging in my shed, I came on this. I think it’s what we used on hand brashing saw blades but can’t remember for definite. It’s made by sandvik

 

[julianthegypsy]

Somewhere I have an entirely different tool for setting saws. It basically looks like a flat blade on a handle, with various slots on both sides. You pick the slot that fits the tooth and bend. There's an adjustable stop bar that hits the saw blade when the angle is right, so you do them all the same.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

@Parm Sure that's not a veneer saw? I have a 'modern' one, very fine teeth set and good for fine finish cuts...except on hardwood when it's hard work.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Somewhere I have an entirely different tool for setting saws. It basically looks like a flat blade on a handle, with various slots on both sides. You pick the slot that fits the tooth and bend. There's an adjustable stop bar that hits the saw blade when the angle is right, so you do them all the same.

Like this.

Good bit of kit in the right hand.
Plus the left hand.




This is the design that @Parm has. German CK.
They do a very good job, but are a pain to set up and get to used too.




This is my go to set, for doing the run of the mill setting.
I find it better than the Stanley/Record one. It has a more positive action.

 

[Parm]

Somewhere I have an entirely different tool for setting saws. It basically looks like a flat blade on a handle, with various slots on both sides. You pick the slot that fits the tooth and bend. There's an adjustable stop bar that hits the saw blade when the angle is right, so you do them all the same.

will you post up a pic please?