Waxoyl,yes or no.

[Bryan Williams]

Just spent two weekends attacking the surface rust under my 95 van.
Done a passable job in that I've Gunked, pressure washed and ground out as much as I can , then used Vactan rust remover and the converter for the hard to reach bits.
Primed it with Rustin's as Vactan advice not using etch or high zinc primer.
Painted that with Johnson's undercoat.
Im going to paint that with Aldi white metal paint to show up any future rust as I am under no illusions that I have got it all.
Now tempted to waxoyl over that but am thinking its going to be difficult to remove if and when I have to do future touch ups.
Any thoughts?

 

[grim_d]

Don't put waxoyl near anything you care about. It is complete garbage.

If you want to use a CPC/cavity wax or underseal then look at options from the likes of bilt hamber (my recommendation), dinitrol, noxudol etc. At least that way you will have some protection.

They can be removed with solvent if required.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Don't put waxoyl near anything you care about. It is complete garbage.

Am I right in thinking that they changed the spec from the original product? I still have most of a 5 ltr of the Mk1 stuff..........

 

[CompoSimmonite]

Waxoyl is OK for fresh / clean metal however if there is a chance of existing rust then Dinitrol or similar is far better.

 

[grim_d]

Am I right in thinking that they changed the spec from the original product? I still have most of a 5 ltr of the Mk1 stuff..........

Probably, I'm too young for most 'good old days' products. It probably used to be good but it just fails immediately now.

 

[gaz1]

talking with garage owner and he mentioned another brand that they use on boats is much better than waxoyl

though price is a bit steep at 70.00 for a tin of paint with rust killer as well in it

 

[8ob]

I have used waxoil for yonks and its always done exactly what it says on the tin, I have never bothered painting anything underneath thats being waxed but do use the black version. Applied very hot and to a bone dry car it will get in everywhere , the black is a fair finish.

Bob

I always keep a few tins handy, used to get it for £10 a 5ltr tin when it was on special offer . It keeps

 

[Bryan Williams]

Well didon want to throw loads of money at it,can cantc see them bieng allowed on the road much longer.
Hopefully get a few years out of it.theres no holes or welding needed.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I'm too young for most 'good old days' products.

Give it time.......

 

[reb78]

I agree with 8ob. I think a lot of it comes down to how it is used. When i have prepped surfaces i subsequently waxoyl, i have steam cleaned and then checked over to ensure any loose flaky stuff is removed. Let the chassis dry properly (so choose a hot period of time) and then apply straight onto the metal. I mix engine oil and white spirit to what i apply inside the chassis to increase the creep into the joints. My 110 is 29 years old and has had no repairs since i started doing this and only minimal before that period.

I cant see the point of applying it in Bryan's case now though as it wont do anything sat on top of all of that paint.

Personally i would rather waxoyl or dinitrol every few years and touch up in between, than risk missing some rust and painting over it then enabling it to fester and develop underneath.

Everyone will have a different opinion on this though....!

 

[123hotchef]

I have used waxoil for yonks and its always done exactly what it says on the tin, I have never bothered painting anything underneath thats being waxed but do use the black version. Applied very hot and to a bone dry car it will get in everywhere , the black is a fair finish.

Bob

I always keep a few tins handy, used to get it for £10 a 5ltr tin when it was on special offer . It keeps

it flows lovely when nice and hot especially thinned a bit, sprays nicley out of the long wand into chassis rails and seals

 

[Bryan Williams]

I agree with 8ob. I think a lot of it comes down to how it is used. When i have prepped surfaces i subsequently waxoyl, i have steam cleaned and then checked over to ensure any loose flaky stuff is removed. Let the chassis dry properly (so choose a hot period of time) and then apply straight onto the metal. I mix engine oil and white spirit to what i apply inside the chassis to increase the creep into the joints. My 110 is 29 years old and has had no repairs since i started doing this and only minimal before that period.

I cant see the point of applying it in Bryan's case now though as it wont do anything sat on top of all of that paint.

Personally i would rather waxoyl or dinitrol every few years and touch up in between, than risk missing some rust and painting over it then enabling it to fester and develop underneath.

Everyone will have a different opinion on this though....!

That's what I was wondering,it seems the final part of the process for a lot of people but I've got three coats of paint on an acid treatment,so seems a bit overkill anyway.
I would still like to bung something in the box sections,ther theres quite a few rubber grommets that give access.
Now a guy on another forum makes his own stuff up.
Buys a load of cheap candles (at least four), melts them in white spirit,then mixes with parrafin and or cheap engine oil..says its better/cheaper.

 

[Gareth J]

Generally, on vehicles especially, they rust from the inside of sections and seams. Where it's very hard to clean off/wax.

I suspect that whatever you put on the outside will will become irrelevant when it bursts out of the inside bits.

That said, I use waxoyl and it's fine. I actually mix it ~50:50 with bitumen. It's not a once only forever job but kept on top of, stops solid bits of underbody and from surface rusting and little things like nuts/bolts from rusting solid.

 

[Bryan Williams]

Generally, on vehicles especially, they rust from the inside of sections and seams. Where it's very hard to clean off/wax.

I suspect that whatever you put on the outside will will become irrelevant when it bursts out of the inside bits.

That said, I use waxoyl and it's fine. I actually mix it ~50:50 with bitumen. It's not a once only forever job but kept on top of, stops solid bits of underbody and from surface rusting and little things like nuts/bolts from rusting solid.

Got to say bitumen is well underrated or at least forgotten about as a metal treatment. I notice a lot of old machinery,wrought iron gates ect on UU properties has a thick coat of what I assume is bitumen.
Some of it has got to be 100 years old.
Looks like it has had one thick coat from new and apart from some knocks that have let water in its held up great.
We did around 200 gates across the country that needed an angle welded on the hinge to stop them being nicked, they were heavy steel , usually up lanes , overgrown and forgotten.There is a water pipe that runs down from the lakes to Preston , the gates follow it for access to the land.
All bitumen ,all in good condition.
Ancient.

 

[Gareth J]

Got to say bitumen is well underrated or at least forgotten about as a metal treatment. I notice a lot of old machinery,wrought iron gates ect on UU properties has a thick coat of what I assume is bitumen.
Some of it has got to be 100 years old.
Looks like it has had one thick coat from new and apart from some knocks that have let water in its held up great.
We did around 200 gates across the country that needed an angle welded on the hinge to stop them being nicked, they were heavy steel , usually up lanes , overgrown and forgotten.There is a water pipe that runs down from the lakes to Preston , the gates follow it for access to the land.
All bitumen ,all in good condition.
Ancient.

It's also very cheap!

 

[frank horton]

Bryan
my 1999 T4 was wax oiled from new....absolutely no rust other than stone chips.....
there are a couple of places where u can look inside the chassis on mine and STILL no rust....
this is my forever vehicle.....happy to keep spending on mechanicals......
like to have the dent's done (nothing major) and repainted.....but why bother....
still original xhit house green........hahaha....
didn't like the colour first but u can at least find it in a car park.....hahaha......

 

[optima21]

I went off waxoyl when my sills rusted through after applying it every couple of year, so for about 6 or 7 years I've been using Bilt Hamber's Dynax S50 cavity wax. I think there was a long term test in one of the classic car magazines about 3 or 4 years ago and waxoyl came well recomended (if not top), so that may have changed their formula from the good old days, to the days it didnt work, to now when it does work again.

 

[Bryan Williams]

Bryan
my 1999 T4 was wax oiled from new....absolutely no rust other than stone chips.....
there are a couple of places where u can look inside the chassis on mine and STILL no rust....
this is my forever vehicle.....happy to keep spending on mechanicals......
like to have the dent's done (nothing major) and repainted.....but why bother....
still original xhit house green........hahaha....
didn't like the colour first but u can at least find it in a car park.....hahaha......

Worst bit of mine is the inner bottom of the sliding door .
The bottom of the outer skin is going now ss well.
There are replacement panels but the inners are all for the drivers side.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

.........candles (at least four).........

 

[optima21]

completely off topic, but the original script for that sold a couple of weeks ago for £28,000.....not bad to say it was found in a bag of rubbish

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-bristol-44327990