- Thread starter s410man
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pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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2t is press the button and hold to weld, release to stop. 4t is press release to start press release again to stop. Spot weld is timed to cut off a preset time after you press whether you release or not and seam weld is just welding.
That welder is far too complicated for you, send it to me
That welder is far too complicated for you, send it to me
matt1978
www.lorch.eu
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Pedro is correct, ref 2 and 4 step, you may also here it referred to as latch.
Spot is when the trigger is pressed and the arc comes on for a given pre set time in seconds and then stops again (think for when you want exactly the same size tacks etc)
And the last one stitch, is when you pull the trigger and the arc will start and then stop and start/stop again and repeat until you loose the trigger. This is ideal for welding thin sheets (butt welds etc) as you get a cooling phase.
Spot is when the trigger is pressed and the arc comes on for a given pre set time in seconds and then stops again (think for when you want exactly the same size tacks etc)
And the last one stitch, is when you pull the trigger and the arc will start and then stop and start/stop again and repeat until you loose the trigger. This is ideal for welding thin sheets (butt welds etc) as you get a cooling phase.
i knew what the spot and seam ones were but was just a bit puzzled about the 2 and 4 stroke
how do you adjust the time the seam weld comes on for
is it the same as the spot weld
if i adjust the wire speed one one power setting does it change on the other ones
eg on a 1mm weld i find the wire speed is to slow
if i turned it up would the other settings be faster or are they all independant
in manual mode the voltage appears to go to 27.8
what difference is this to welding as i thought it was the amps that set the power not volts
thanks
how do you adjust the time the seam weld comes on for
is it the same as the spot weld
if i adjust the wire speed one one power setting does it change on the other ones
eg on a 1mm weld i find the wire speed is to slow
if i turned it up would the other settings be faster or are they all independant
in manual mode the voltage appears to go to 27.8
what difference is this to welding as i thought it was the amps that set the power not volts
thanks
matt1978
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Have you set the Synergic line inside the machine?
Once you have chosen the correct one, you might have to adjust the wirespeed slightly to suit your gas mix.
On Mig, Wirespeed is your current (More wire=More Amps), but you need the voltage to burn off the wire.
Once you have chosen the correct one, you might have to adjust the wirespeed slightly to suit your gas mix.
On Mig, Wirespeed is your current (More wire=More Amps), but you need the voltage to burn off the wire.
yes i am on setting 3
are you saying i cannot adjust the amps when it is manual mode- i have to do it by adjusting the wire speed?
what i mean by the wire correction is if i put it on 1mm metal and adjust the wire speed to +10% will it change the settings for 1.5 2 2.5 mm etc or are they all independant
and to top it all of the regulator is leaking and ive just lost £30 worth of gas
hoping wasp supplies will give me a replacement
are you saying i cannot adjust the amps when it is manual mode- i have to do it by adjusting the wire speed?
what i mean by the wire correction is if i put it on 1mm metal and adjust the wire speed to +10% will it change the settings for 1.5 2 2.5 mm etc or are they all independant
and to top it all of the regulator is leaking and ive just lost £30 worth of gas
hoping wasp supplies will give me a replacement
wyn
Member
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With my 252 if i adjust the % wire speed on one thickness/voltage setting it changes it the same for the other thickness/voltage settings.
When the machine is switched off and then restarted the % wire speed will stay on what you adjusted it to last time.
When the machine is switched off and then restarted the % wire speed will stay on what you adjusted it to last time.
matt1978
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Amps is wirespeed with Mig welding. Not just my mig a portamig a clarke, anyones. On Inverter based syngeric migs it is possible to view the amperage and adjust it up or down (the machine will calculate the necessary wirespeed to achieve the proposed amps. But with Transformers you set your wirespeed first and then you see how many amps that relates too when you start welding.
What do you mean 'to top it all off'? Have you had some sort of negative experience or do you regret your purchase?
Your supposed to marry the wire speed/voltage relationship on the lowest voltage step and then it should be there or there about's on all of the higher settings.
Regarding the 12 steps on manual mode, that is perfectly adequate for a 250 amp out put machine. Some of them only come with 6 or 8 steps.
What do you mean 'to top it all off'? Have you had some sort of negative experience or do you regret your purchase?
Your supposed to marry the wire speed/voltage relationship on the lowest voltage step and then it should be there or there about's on all of the higher settings.
Regarding the 12 steps on manual mode, that is perfectly adequate for a 250 amp out put machine. Some of them only come with 6 or 8 steps.
Windy Miller
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Hmmm this post has got me thinking:
If I swap out my roll of 0.8 wire for some 0.6, and then increase the wirespeed (and therefore the amps), will I be able to weld thicker plate?
On my ESAB Compact 125 I set the power switch to max, and the wirespeed to about 5 or 6, and the maximum thickness I can weld (properly) is about 5 mm. With thinner wire, I would have to increase the wirespeed to add the same amount of metal to the weldpool - this would increase the current, but would it alow me to weld thicker material?
Windy Miller
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Even though I would need to turn the wire speed up from 5 or 6 to 10?
matt1978
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Yes, you would need to increase the wire feed rate to a higher level than you had on the 0.8mm wire.
These are not at all correct, just examples........
0.8mm wire on wire setting 4 might give 125 amps
0.6mm wire on wire setting 4 might only give 90 amps
So you would need a higher wire setting to achieve the same current on the smaller diameter.
I don't know how your wire settings equate to the real world, but wirespeed should be measured in meters per minute, so an easy way to check is to put on a certain wire setting and let the wire run out at that speed for 10 seconds, measure it and then multiply by 6.
These are not at all correct, just examples........
0.8mm wire on wire setting 4 might give 125 amps
0.6mm wire on wire setting 4 might only give 90 amps
So you would need a higher wire setting to achieve the same current on the smaller diameter.
I don't know how your wire settings equate to the real world, but wirespeed should be measured in meters per minute, so an easy way to check is to put on a certain wire setting and let the wire run out at that speed for 10 seconds, measure it and then multiply by 6.
to top it all off
it was a week longer getting here than it should have been and i had to borrow a mates welder to do a job at the weekend as it hadnt arrived
has a different sized fitting on the gas hose to what i was using to hook up to my clarke so i had to get an adapter
was supposed to be supplied with a binzel torch and ive got some parweld thing which feels smaller than the mb 25 i use at work but that may be me as i use different gloves in both places
and my electric keeps tripping out-turns out i dont have a 30 amp plug but this is my own fault
but not much wrong with the welder now its all going
re the voltage steps i thought it was unusual to go from 5mm straight to 8mm with no inbetween setting
the migatronic at work has 50 more amps but 9 more settings
can you try and explain the wirespeed thing a bit more
its probably me being thick but from what you are saying if i turn the wire right up till its like a machine gun ill get more power????????
matt1978
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No what I mean is that with mig welding in general, you can't increase the amps without increasing the wire speed.
However, by increasing the wirespeed, you then need more voltage to 'burn' that wire off.
So if you increase the wirespeed too much without going to the next voltage step, you will end up with the wire stabbing into the weldpool and lots of spatter.
But I would assume that the Migatronic you mention is 3-ph? not 1-ph. Some of our larger output 3-ph machines have 24 steps. I may be wrong, but I don't think that there are any 230v 1-ph 250 amp machines with any more than 12 steps available from anyone.
The reason the jump from 5mm to 8mm is to try and miss the mixed arc/globular transfer range.
Re, the torch, if your unhappy with it, you should speak to Wasp. Did they specifically say a Binzel torch or a MB 25 type. Quality wise I dont think there would be much difference as I am pretty sure they are a simerla standard made in China.
If its MB25 it should be the same size handle and take the same size consumables as the one you use at work.
However, by increasing the wirespeed, you then need more voltage to 'burn' that wire off.
So if you increase the wirespeed too much without going to the next voltage step, you will end up with the wire stabbing into the weldpool and lots of spatter.
But I would assume that the Migatronic you mention is 3-ph? not 1-ph. Some of our larger output 3-ph machines have 24 steps. I may be wrong, but I don't think that there are any 230v 1-ph 250 amp machines with any more than 12 steps available from anyone.
The reason the jump from 5mm to 8mm is to try and miss the mixed arc/globular transfer range.
Re, the torch, if your unhappy with it, you should speak to Wasp. Did they specifically say a Binzel torch or a MB 25 type. Quality wise I dont think there would be much difference as I am pretty sure they are a simerla standard made in China.
If its MB25 it should be the same size handle and take the same size consumables as the one you use at work.
think we said binzel on the phone but only mb 25 on the invoice
not that fussed tbh
its a sinle phase 301 at work
The reason the jump from 5mm to 8mm is to try and miss the mixed arc/globular transfer range.
of course-silly me(wheres the scratching your head smiley)
No what I mean is that with mig welding in general, you can't increase the amps without increasing the wire speed.
with you now-from your previous posts i thought it sounded like they were linked and it was IMPOSSIBLE to change one without the other
think thats most of the questions answered for this week
thanks
matt1978
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In conventional mig, you have 2 basic arcing phases, Dip Transfer/Short Arc and Spray Arc, however, inbetween the 2 is a 3rd one called Mixed arc/Globular transfer.
This occours, when you dont have enough voltage to get into Spray but you have too much to remain in Dip.
Mixed arc is not very nice to weld in, you get a lot of coarse irregular shaped spatter.
You either have to turn the voltage up and get into spray and then increase your travel speed to compensate for the extra heat, or change the wire diamter, moving to a smaller size but keeping the settings the same should bring you into Spray or going up a size while keeping the same volts/wirespeed should bring you down into Dip.
Ragnarok
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thermal arc fabricator 250 has 16 steps, esab caddy mig C200i step-less, only 200amp though not 250.
12 steps is fine, just saying.
matt1978
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I stand corrected by the Thermal Arc machine, but the ESAB is a Inverter and we were talking about Transformers. Kempii and others also make small 1-ph stepless inverters.
But as you say, 12 steps is quite enough for 250 amps.
Cheers
