What's caused this 1k stonechip annoyance ?

[Weldinator]

I was keying the stonechip ready for the 2k rapture paint, i then found in some very small areas the stonechip could be scraped off via fingernail, it feels like plasticine/chewing gum type of texture ?

The rest of the floor pan is totally fine, even with a screwdriver it wont come off and feels very firm.

What could have caused this, i cleaned the area within an inch of it's life.

I feel like giving up now tbh

 

[Country Joe]

Hi there,
I'm going to take a wild guess at lazy prep, judging by the loose rust that seems to be showing through. Doesn't look to have been "cleaned to within an inch of it's life" all that recently.
I'd also guess that uneven application might be causing the big difference in curing times, between one area and another.
I'm not sure what to make of the big screw poking through!
Apart form the preparation & application though, all looks well!
Seriously though, if it's just a small area, maybe it'd be possible to re-do just that bit?
All the Best,
CJ

 

[Weldinator]

Thanks but thats not rust, thats good condition original sealant that other areas has a little of and no problems. The prep as said was done very well on every little bit but even if it wasn't it wouldn't turn into a plasticine type substance would it ? The previous zinc primer bonded very well too.

The bolt is original to the car, think its a brake pipe fixing area.

I might just start all over again then use 2k jotun jotamastic but i dont know if the 2k rapture can be applied on top, if it can it might have to be applied before it fully cures which would be hard with the time i have spare.

Trust me, this floor pan has been totally rust free and cleaned till the rags came clean. unless the degreaser wasn't wiped off well enough and left some substance on the primer ?

 

[Country Joe]

unless the degreaser wasn't wiped off well enough and left some substance on the primer ?

That was another thought I had. Maybe there was some trace of degreaser or other chemical that has, or is still reacting, with the next coating applied.
Is the "Rapture" product one of those that goes onto bare metal, or does it need a primer first? Either way, I'd guess that it'd be a bit soul destroying to take the whole lot off, after taking the time (and expense) you already have in getting to this stage.
I would have expected the reaction to be near to an area where it (the un-wanted chemical) could have been trapped between two layers of steel, for example. It's hard to tell if there would be such a hiding place near to where the problem is.
Is there just the primer under the stone-chip, or another product in-between? I'm assuming the part that I thought to be rust, had primer over it before the stone-chip went on?
Also was the stone-chip applied quite recently, or has it had quite a reasonable time to cure already?
I know it doesn't help much, but I know how you feel!
All the Best,
CJ

 

[Weldinator]

Thanks CJ, its quite bad after the amount of effort thats been put into it.

Yes it has, it was applied before the warm weather started but the garage was always 20 Degrees temp. The sealant can be seen because i used the screwdriver to scrape it off too hard, it may have had some primer in that area, i cant remember tbh.

No the Rapture 2k paint is used for pick up truck beds and can be applied onto 1k stonechip as long as its been scuffed up, this is what i was doing to semi prepare it all, ready for painting the Rapture tomorrow. This advice came from Upol themselves BTW.

Looks like i could check the whole floor pan to see if it comes off anywhere for sure, then maybe re-apply the stonechip.

Also i remember that there is a little corner area that also has the same problem, the rest as said has turned out as it should. I managed to scrape all the loose stuff till it wasn't coming off anymore.

I would try it all again if i had to, just so its done well, so it will last with no future problems.

 

[the snooper]

i would guess that what ever is directly underneath the stonechip has caused it to stay soft is there any amount of sealant in the soft spots ? if so it may not have cured fully and as the solvent evaporates it would keep the top coat soft

 

[pedrobedro]

It looks like it wants leaving a couple more days to cure, it's plenty thick.

 

[steveo3002]

no point in using jotun or any fancy products over the existing products

strip it all clean then start again

 

[norsa]

no point in using jotun or any fancy products over the existing products

strip it all clean then start again

x2 more work but could save time and wasted products

 

[Weldinator]

I wouldn't put it on top on the stonechip, only bare steel like it says you have too, if i went that route.

The sealant is original not new. Stonechip is fully cured, the rest of it is fine. It has also been applied on a few areas where the same old sealant is there and no problems at all.

Thats not as thick as when i did the inner wings and that came out fine, no problems with that, thats on the old sealant in some areas too. If you look carefully the coats are not all that thickly painted.

Thing is, doing it all again will mean an extra couple more weeks worth of work and wasted all the other time and money. I just dont have that time, i want the car ready two months ago lol. Hell its only really going to be a summer car, not being driven under water like the James bond car lol. Although the system iv used isn't the BEST way, does not mean its not good enough does it.

If the car was an off roader then yeah it would be pointless using the stuff i have used. Anyway it was all sorted before i knew about jotun jotamastic is ok rollered on etc. I still have the back end too sort out and that is far more rusty compared to the floor, which wasn't all that bad. It only rusted in the areas that old owners used to jack the car up in the wrong place, ie the floor not the sills.

One thing i forgot to mention, the area that has the problem may have had some lacquer over spray when i did a bit of lacquering, all of the floor is fine and that wouldn't have got any over spray of lacquer ?

During the painting before and in-between iv not been using any oils/grease or any other chemicals because i knew the painting wasn't finished off yet, not till the rapture is sorted.

Which is the best and easiest to use the 80/87 or 90

http://www.jotun.com/jotun/paints/20020020.nsf/38af5a3b2a6c4626c1256c940044e1cd/643b60682d3d8f60862570d200551253/$FILE/TDS%20-%20Jotamastic%20Smart%20Pack%20-%20English%20(us)%20-%20Issued.01.19.2012.pdf ?

What does the ST2 rusted surface prep mean ?

 

[langy]

Just my opinion but you would of got a better finish and longer lasting job if you had rollered 2K epoxy and then used 2K topcoat

 

[Weldinator]

yes i would but i didn't know about jotun jotamastic roller epoxy till it had already been zinc primered.

Looks like im gonna have to get rid of it all now.

Could the cars old sealant absorb oil, its just the floor pan was very oily before i started and wonder if its come out of the old sealant ?

Also do you know if the 2k epoxy has to be cured or flash off before i apply another 2k coat of paint ?

 

[steveo3002]

you can let it flash over then paint on top while its still sticky to get a better bond

 

[Weldinator]

Ok great, ebay seems to be the cheapest place iv found so far.

Which jotun jotamastic shall i go for, 80, 87 or 90 or are they all the same ?

I assume that includes the rapture on top of the epoxy too after the flash off period ?

 

[steveo3002]

i doubt anyone has actualy tried and documented rapture over jotun , if it was me id leave the jotun overnight then overcoat it

that way it will still be curing so the rapture should bond well

if in doubt try a test peice

 

[langy]

yes i would but i didn't know about jotun jotamastic roller epoxy till it had already been zinc primered.

Looks like im gonna have to get rid of it all now.

Could the cars old sealant absorb oil, its just the floor pan was very oily before i started and wonder if its come out of the old sealant ?

Also do you know if the 2k epoxy has to be cured or flash off before i apply another 2k coat of paint ?

2k epoxy can be overcoated after 1 hour

 

[Weldinator]

Thats the same as the rapture 2k paint, over coat after 1 hour flash off time.

I now have sore wrists and shoulders after yesterdays stonechip removal laying on the floor.