Wheel corrosion

[Kram]

I have been avoiding this for a few months! One of my wheels had a slow leak from corrosion. I have the tyre off and want to repaint just the problem areas of the bead. As the face of the wheel still looks fine I want to avoid the need to cosmetically refinish it.

Whats the best way to strip small areas of paint on a contoured surface like a bead? I have a poly strip disc somewhere, are they are good/safe to use on soft alu?

 

[Seadog]

I'd do it by hand, much more controllable.

 

[winchman]

My tyre man paints some black stuff on the rim, re fits the tyre, wipe's off the excess and Hey Presto its fixed

 

[optima21]

My tyre man paints some black stuff on the rim, re fits the tyre, wipe's off the excess and Hey Presto its fixed

that didn't work for mine, I ended up striping mine, I either did it by hand or used a nylon filament wheel like these

Abracs Nylon Filament Wheel Brush

Non spark filament circular brush impregnated with abrasive grain. Ideal for deburring, surface treatment, stock removal and other general cleaning applications. Mounted on a 6mm spindle. Max rpm 4,500.

www.toolstation.com

then a couple coats of Jotun 87 and they've been fine for the last 3 or so years.

 

[Erie Fred]

My tyre man paints some black stuff on the rim, re fits the tyre, wipe's off the excess and Hey Presto its fixed

maybe tire bead sealant ?

https://www.amazon.com/Xtra-14-101-Seal-Bead-Sealer/dp/B000GKD722/ref=asc_df_B000GKD722&mcid=8d1fb50126de360090fc3c603a3ffd15?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588515103&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589114852595&psc=1

I have this product next to my machine, it is black.

 

[Smallfry]

This is one of the reasons why I remove and refit my own tyres.

On alloys, if there is any corrosion on the beads, I rub them down manually until the corrosion is gone, and repaint with a couple of coats of Bilt Hamber Etchweld. Since doing this for the last 20 years or so, I have never had a problem with it.

I have found that this corrosion is always caused by hammer on balancing weights. Either by the weights scraping off the lacquer or paint, or the tyre monkey mis striking it while fitting.

Adhesive weights only for me.

 

[Kram]

Yeah the fitter warned me before swappingtheb tyre and put bead sealer on, but correct action would have been for him to rub off the loose flaking paint and corrosion first. I would have done it for them if I had some abraisive paper with me!

the hub side is extremely bad, while the front face looks ok. Whys that?

Sounds like by hand is the best option. Not sure I can be bothered to get the compressor out so may brush paint some epoxy primer and call it done.

 

[Erie Fred]

Looks like a good job for blasting.
Maybe plastic abrasive.

 

[DAPPH]

Yeah the fitter warned me before swappingtheb tyre and put bead sealer on, but correct action would have been for him to rub off the loose flaking paint and corrosion first. I would have done it for them if I had some abraisive paper with me!

the hub side is extremely bad, while the front face looks ok. Whys that?
View attachment 435120

View attachment 435121

Sounds like by hand is the best option. Not sure I can be bothered to get the compressor out so may brush paint some epoxy primer and call it done.

Thoughts worth exploring ????
You tend to wash the salts into the outside rim , on the inside it's drier & never gets washed ?? Plus the outer edges get a lot of torsional twisting and strain on the bead , so open up a fraction letting moisture & crap in that degrades the tyre bead ??

I also wonder if the nitrogen air fill would help prevent this as the nitrogen is supposed to be moisture free .
Had a post a few days back about the use of nitrogen . Got shot at by the sites snipers .

But knowing there are vast number of tyres on the Motability hire fleet I'm happy to listen to their hands on experience and very detailed data on all their vehicles , going back for dozens of years right up to today rather than a guy from the insurance recovery company ( AA ) who says it might be this or might not be that .

 

[Blue Chips]

the hub side is extremely bad, while the front face looks ok. Whys that?

A couple of possibilities:

Tyre changing equipment could have made scratches and chips in the finish coat, creating starting points that could allow filiform corrosion to spread under the finish.

The metal prep or finish application processes at the factory could have been consistently asymmetrical, causing poor adhesion of the finish or perhaps an overly thin layer of the finish coat on one side. Years ago, I bought a set of relatively cheap white-painted (or maybe they were powder coated...can't recall) wheels for an old Chevy Blazer that I had, and there were places on the inside of the rim where you could actually see bare metal, due to uneven spraying of the finish coat.

 

[Erie Fred]

Electrostatic painting doesn't like corners, seen the same lack of paint
as mentioned above, on steel rims where the center laps over the outer rim.

 

[Kram]

Had a go at cleaning it up. Anywhere with brake dust, the paint was loose. A bit annoyed that loose paint and plastic table have scratched at the spoke paint, looks very thin and possibly only 1k? No laquer I can see.

Now considering if I should strip the whole.lot and do it properly, but, wrong time of year for spraying outside - a bit too cold! And I'd rather not start another project just yet!