http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c190/procharged79/roofrepair003.jpg
look quality, possibly home made, im not sure.
look quality, possibly home made, im not sure.
- Thread starter robbo
- Start date
JimM
Member
- Messages
- 394
greyshirtguy
Persistent Learner
- Messages
- 150
Hey they look pretty useful!
I did a bit of looking around on the NET to find some for sale here in Oz...not luck yet....
However.....they look like a great little DIY project to make syour own... (I'm wired such that I really enjoy making *anything* I can)
I found this image of one that shows how easy they would be to make if you couldn't easily source them.
Initial thoughts:
1. Buy a screw + washer + wing nut (approx 30mm long and 5mm diam)
2. Cut off 30mm of some of my spare 40x40 RHS (2.5mm thickness)
3. Drill one face and cut a slot in the opposite face
4. Cut a piece of 1.2mm sheet 30x50mm and tack weld to screw as in picture.
5. Drill a 8-10mm hole in the sheet metal (where the square hole is in the "proper ones") and use a cut-off piece of rod to suit.....
I did a bit of looking around on the NET to find some for sale here in Oz...not luck yet....
However.....they look like a great little DIY project to make syour own... (I'm wired such that I really enjoy making *anything* I can)
I found this image of one that shows how easy they would be to make if you couldn't easily source them.
Initial thoughts:
1. Buy a screw + washer + wing nut (approx 30mm long and 5mm diam)
2. Cut off 30mm of some of my spare 40x40 RHS (2.5mm thickness)
3. Drill one face and cut a slot in the opposite face
4. Cut a piece of 1.2mm sheet 30x50mm and tack weld to screw as in picture.
5. Drill a 8-10mm hole in the sheet metal (where the square hole is in the "proper ones") and use a cut-off piece of rod to suit.....
greyshirtguy
Persistent Learner
- Messages
- 150
Well, I decided to make one, and see how it turns out..
Cut off a piece of 40x40 RHS, drilled a hole in one side and cut a lot (using hand hacksaw) in the other side:
Then cut a small piece of 0.6m steel and tacked it onto a screw. Then drilled a hole in the thin plate and added small length of rod to suit.....Add one washer and wing-nut:
Had a play with some tiny offcuts of sheet:
Got to thinking, how I might like to use this for curved panels - and how easy one could make all sorts of profiles for the bottom rod:
What did I learn:
1. It takes too long using a hand hack saw (when I get a blade for my recently purchased bandsaw, I plan to make a few more of these for an upcoming floor-panel project I wish to but weld)
2. 40x40 seems probably too big - 25x25 sounds much better (fitting in confined spaces/profiles and lighter too)
3. I easily could make up all sorts of gap widths (0.6, 0.8, 1)
4. The current gap of 0.6 means the sheet is pretty flexible - it twists a just a little bit when tightening right up.
Cut off a piece of 40x40 RHS, drilled a hole in one side and cut a lot (using hand hacksaw) in the other side:
Then cut a small piece of 0.6m steel and tacked it onto a screw. Then drilled a hole in the thin plate and added small length of rod to suit.....Add one washer and wing-nut:
Had a play with some tiny offcuts of sheet:
Got to thinking, how I might like to use this for curved panels - and how easy one could make all sorts of profiles for the bottom rod:
What did I learn:
1. It takes too long using a hand hack saw (when I get a blade for my recently purchased bandsaw, I plan to make a few more of these for an upcoming floor-panel project I wish to but weld)
2. 40x40 seems probably too big - 25x25 sounds much better (fitting in confined spaces/profiles and lighter too)
3. I easily could make up all sorts of gap widths (0.6, 0.8, 1)
4. The current gap of 0.6 means the sheet is pretty flexible - it twists a just a little bit when tightening right up.
ChasesDragons
Member
- Messages
- 98
That is superb and inspiring - Thanks Dan.
Just out of interest, is it poss to weld those bimetallic hacksaw blades with a std mig? Seems to be a good solution for the spacer bars.
Just out of interest, is it poss to weld those bimetallic hacksaw blades with a std mig? Seems to be a good solution for the spacer bars.
Kafer_meister
Tinkerer
- Messages
- 185
Posts like these are one of the reasons I love this forum. So simple, yet so very useful. I was looking at buying some of these but didn't think they were worth £15 (5) for what they were. I'll be making a few of these at the weekend and I doubt it'll cost me £2.
madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
- Messages
- 13,678
might be good for my project to.
I bought some from Frosts via ebay. I have some box section, I can get wing nuts, I can get some rod, undoubtedly have some machine screws. I have a welder.
But it'd take time, and that time is better spent chopping rust out of my old beemer and welding it back together. So for me it was better to buy some.
But it'd take time, and that time is better spent chopping rust out of my old beemer and welding it back together. So for me it was better to buy some.
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
- Messages
- 3,595
- Location
- North Kent, UK
Is it adjustable for depth? Or is that just how you tighten it all up? A small amount of adjustment is required to cater for different thicknesses of steel, but ultimately you just wind up the wingnut to clamp it all together.
Or am I seeing it wrong?
Will1983
Member
- Messages
- 55
hmm only one problem im seeing with this, how do you take it off once you've tacked your patch into place?
surely if you undo the wing nut the box section part will come away but the plate part with the screw tacked to it is stuck between the sheets you've just tacked together..
also surely you cant use these when you cant access the other side of the panel i.e welding in a new outer sill.
surely if you undo the wing nut the box section part will come away but the plate part with the screw tacked to it is stuck between the sheets you've just tacked together..
also surely you cant use these when you cant access the other side of the panel i.e welding in a new outer sill.
- Messages
- 14,513
- Location
- UK
The round pin is loose allowing you to remove the clamp after welding.
Access needed to both sides of the sheet to use these clamps
Access needed to both sides of the sheet to use these clamps
