Wiring in 30A feed for Compresser

[inchpincher]

Hi guys.

I have a lovely compressor which needs 30A supply but I don't know a thing about electrics. I've searched and read quite a bit on here but I'm getting very confused...
Are there any websites that explain such things simply or could anyone give me a layman's idea of what parts I need etc.
I will be getting a sparky to do the honours but thought I could save some money by buying the bits, doing the cabling & stuff.
Please help me to get sandblasting my vespa

Thank you,

Ben

 

[Justme]

As its going to be sited in one spot go for a fix / hard wired instaltion.

You will need in order from the fuse box

a suitable trip switch in your fuse box pref with no other circuts on it
suitable cable for the power (load) & distance
Possibly a local fuse box
Armoured cable or cable in trunking between local fuse box & isolator
a hand operated isolator
Suitable protected cable from isolator to compressor

Best to ask the person doing the connections what they recommend as they will have to sign it off & they might want a different set up.

Justme

PS might be cheaper to get sparky to buy the bits as they will get discounts or know who to get the bits off for best prices, will depend on if they will pass those savings over to you or not.

 

[Wozzaaah]

You'd need to run a new cable to a 32A mcb in the consumer unit and fit a rotary isolator like this

and hard wire the compressor in

or you could use a 32A CEE wall mounted socket like this after the isolator

and fit the compressor with a plug like this

if you might need to move it.

Cor that's a messy looking post but you get my point

 

[Tangmere]

I am doing exactly what Wazzaah has suggested for my compressor and a 16a blue socket/plug and a 16a rcd thing in the consumer box for my welders.
Blue plugs (16a) going on Welders and (32a) blue plugs on compressor.
Using 6mm cable
I am also getting a heavy duty extension with blue plugs for the welders and also a fly lead with ordinary plug on in case I need to use Welders away from home.
Should be doing it tomorrow. I get the stuff from either www.qvsdirect.com they do have some shops in the south or www.screwfix.com

I am getting my Sparky chap to connect to the house consumer unit and checking it all for me.

 

[Wozzaaah]

The only problem might be getting a sparky to sign off a CEE socket, I gather they don't comply to domestic regs due to the fact they're unshuttered. I think it's a bit of a grey area though, I would imagine a friendly sparky would be ok fitting one. I'm amazed you can't get sockets from which plugs can only be removed if the isolator is off and cannot be turned on unless there is a plug in it. Or can you get them as I've never seen them? I'll ask the question over on Ultimate Handyman which is another forum I tend to post drivel on. Lots of helpful tradesmen on there.

 

[Tangmere]

You can get a combined isolator with a socket that is interlocked. Has to have a plug in before switch bit is turned, but they is a bit more pricey. Seem to be 3 phase?

You can get splashproof wall sockets with a cover for about £9 for a 32a or £5 for a 16a from www.qvsdirect.com and the plugs are about £2.50
My sparky hasn't queried them being unshuttered / interlocked

 

[inchpincher]

Brilliant, thank you chaps.
I'm thinking exactly the same as Tangmere as I have a Clarke 160T that I'd feel happier on a 16a plug and 32a on the compressor.
So 6mm cable will be safe, correct?
I shall try to find a sparky before I shell out on the bits just to be sure as the plugs would be very useful.

 

[bump]

Try City Electrical Factors instead, generally better quality and cheaper than Screwfix.

 

[piman]

Hello all,

the CEE plugs really are more shuttered than the domestic 13A socket from the point of view it is easy to touch the plug live pin as you insert it into the socket. OK, it is good practice to plug and unplug a socket with it switched off but not all sockets are switched.

You can get interlocked single phase CEE sockets by the way.

I personally don't like to use RCD's on fixed equipment because of nuisance tripping.
Also fit a suitable breaker in the distribution board, one that is suitable for motors (Could be type C? from memory) The usual domestic breakers are more sensitive and you could get tripping on starting the compressor.

Alec

 

[bump]

^^ Motors on a C type and transformers on a D Type.

B Curve = 3 - 5 times rated current
C Curve = 5 - 10 times rated current
D Curve = 10 - 20 times rated current