I have a 4 1/2" arbotech woodcarver, its the version with 3 carbide teeth, it comes with a substantial guard assembly, i have used it a fair bit & its a pretty fearsome tool that demands respect. As a lifelong boatbuilder who has used some pretty ancient & probably illegal large woodworking machines the idea of a circ saw blade of any type on a grinder fills me with dread. Its a darwin award waiting to happen.
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chester dylan
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my frind bought one of thease tct saw blades for the same reason to cut palets i wouldnt go near it
i feel fine with the king arthor tools chainsaw blades for carving wood but when it comes to cutting theres so much more chance of a snag its just not worth it
i feel fine with the king arthor tools chainsaw blades for carving wood but when it comes to cutting theres so much more chance of a snag its just not worth it
Wendelspanswick
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The biggest downfall from a design aspect is no riving knife, if you look at portable saws and table saws they have a riving knife to stop the kerf closing up on the back of the blade.
Much as I am pretty blasé about H&S I would only use a saw blade in an angle grinder as a last resort and definitely not as the norm.
Much as I am pretty blasé about H&S I would only use a saw blade in an angle grinder as a last resort and definitely not as the norm.
mr migwire
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Monkey Harris
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rich r
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It's the high speed and low torque that's the big issue with anything fitted to a grinder that isn't abrasive. Pretty much everything else has to be a serious compromise to work well. Saws run at a much lower speed (even circular and chainsaws), because of way they remove material by cutting chunks out. It's like using a saw with too many teeth for the material - it gets hot and doesn't cut very well.
So although it is possible to make a circular saw cutting disc that works in a grinder, there are some massive tradeoffs in terms of resistance to grabbing/binding/kicking and no doubt efficiency of material removal. Far better if you need to cut wood to use a more appropriate tool for the job - eg circular saw, table saw, mitre saw, chainsaw etc.
So although it is possible to make a circular saw cutting disc that works in a grinder, there are some massive tradeoffs in terms of resistance to grabbing/binding/kicking and no doubt efficiency of material removal. Far better if you need to cut wood to use a more appropriate tool for the job - eg circular saw, table saw, mitre saw, chainsaw etc.
Wendelspanswick
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Do you mean a Stihl type saw?
The diamond blades are designed to be used in a 9" angle grinder, I use one regularly to cut dense 4" blocks.
The diamond blades are designed to be used in a 9" angle grinder, I use one regularly to cut dense 4" blocks.
Yes, exactly as you describe.
There is obviously the lack of dust suppression but I get around that by having the area well ventilated, proper dust mask and short bursts of use.
Kram
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Even this is very, very dangerous. For the size and speed it spins, you would not have adequate strength/control... it will be bouncing around going where it likes.
To be safe, things need to happen
- much smaller teeth, so that less torque is needed and it can be controlled. Something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331730243936
- a guard, preferably one that limits depth of cut by only exposing the necessary depth of blade.
- slower rpm. at 1000 rpm it would be much more manageable.
- mount grinder so it has limited movement only in one axis. It would be easy to make this using two lengths of square tube sliding in each other attached by all 3 handle threads, with a heavy base that can not move.
I've used grinder to carve wood using a normal stone disc. It as far too fast, burnt it, stank... but had no better way to do an internal curve.
slim_boy_fat
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The A/Tech one was shaped like the chainsaw blade but all in one piece, no separate teeth involved - but you need a firm grip on the grinder when shaping with it.
julianf
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I'm actually considering a new mitre saw.
The blade is done on mine, and the handle is all held together with tape, etc.etc.
Basically, its pretty ropey, and a new blade will probably cost me a score, so I'm wondering about a whole new replacement, which will probably come with a blade anyhow!
Any suggestions for something brutal? (to the wood, not me!)
I don't really want a sliding function, which kind of rules out all the rage incarnations?
The blade is done on mine, and the handle is all held together with tape, etc.etc.
Basically, its pretty ropey, and a new blade will probably cost me a score, so I'm wondering about a whole new replacement, which will probably come with a blade anyhow!
Any suggestions for something brutal? (to the wood, not me!)
I don't really want a sliding function, which kind of rules out all the rage incarnations?
Windy Miller
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Yeah I had one for a while. No accuracy to speak of, but it MAY have been ok after some tweaking. It worked fine for rough cutting, but it was obviously noisy and I hated the shower of red hot shrapnel when cutting steel.
I got rid of it after a while, and bought the sliding version, which also has no accuracy to speak of, is noisy, and still produces a shower of red hot shrapnel. The only real difference is it slides! It gets used maybe 2 or 3 times a year.
daleyd
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Julianf wanted something brutal, so that sounds perfect!
cliff366
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How about a cut off saw and bodge a wood blade on there
