Exuptoy
Member
- Messages
- 2,886
- Location
- Maesteg, South Wales
Cheers @octo0072000 Im sure I’ll know soon enough. I’ve already purchased the heel board repair section from M-Machine. It’ll get whatever it needs. Do it right, do it once.
and this is a rolling restoration! amazing how the grow............ been there, done that, twice..
Haha, it really did look better than the amount of work would suggest , but as I keep saying , do it once, do it right.
If it had been a purchase, tidy up and quick flip then it may have been a quick turn around but I’ll be in no hurry to sell it once it’s done.........unless a cheap 911 comes along!
Cut a piece to take up the gap in the lower B-pillar before welding it in. Got my rear arch to door repair welded in and dressed back, had an issue when shaping the lip around the curve where there was too much metal to made a relief cut and beat the excess into the void then welded it up.
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Made a start spot welding the roof gutter and tidied a few welds up. Distortion is minimal. May have gone overboard on the spots though
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but what about that poor camper van still on it's side in one of your garages when will you get back to that ?
Neat work
That’s ok Slim, that’s dream time not a realistic notion.Repeat after me...."Must forget that notion....Must forget that notion....Must forget that notion...."
The words "cheap" and "911" are mutually exclusive.
Repeat after me...."Must forget that notion....Must forget that notion....Must forget that notion...."
The words "cheap" and "911" are mutually exclusive.
think contradiction is more the word your looking for
Door will need reskinning...Removed the subframe bolts of which both of them snapped! Cut the subframe mount panel out with various tools in the confined space under the seat pan. Then I trimmed down the part, pushed the cut bolts thru the new repair panel and copied the shape then cut and welded in place but only after positioning it with the subframe bolts through the mount.
Next a few spot welds all on the doorstep to check the fit of the door (door skin is shot so it looks worse than it is).
Then I marked a point 60mm in from the inboard edge of the sill with a steel rule and transferred that mark back 60mm on top of the floor, held my breath and cut out with a grinder at 45 degrees Fitzee style, this allowed me then to cut a wooden wedge 140mm high and block up the inboard end of the sill and spot weld along its length. Not finished yet but not too much to do on the sill itself and the integrity of the shell is almost as it should be.
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