Yes, I do!!Do you want a cheap indexing table to make a regular hole pattern?
Yes, I do!!Do you want a cheap indexing table to make a regular hole pattern?
Trying to - but it's proving a challenge. It's only a tiny bit out, but I haven't noticed it as I don't normally require this level of accuracy - and it's a Clarke Metalworker, so isn't exactly 'refined'.... Hopefully I'll get back to it tomorrow and improve it some more. Just annoyed at myself for not checking before drilling all 8 holes.Can't you just square up the drill table?
I'll send you a message.Yes, I do!!
Buy my drill and indexing table. You know it makes sense. Google maps says 1hr 46mins.Trying to - but it's proving a challenge. It's only a tiny bit out, but I haven't noticed it as I don't normally require this level of accuracy - and it's a Clarke Metalworker, so isn't exactly 'refined'.... Hopefully I'll get back to it tomorrow and improve it some more. Just annoyed at myself for not checking before drilling all 8 holes.
Thanks @Agroshield - Thinking about it overnight I'd come to the same conclusion on the die plate counterbore, and the stripper plate. I may even be able to rescue the current if I counterbore and go a tiny bit oversize with a stub drill - which is a great idea. I imagine that extra stiffness is what the engineer was getting at when he recommended the end cutter.The holes in the stripper plate can be oversize so you do not need that as part of your sandwich when drilling. That has removed 6mm from your problem.
Counterbore the die plate oversize from the underside. That will remove another 5mm from your problem. The counterbore also allows the punched slugs a much easier exit path.
Use a stub drill (Presto, Dormer, etc) as it is much stiffer than a standard length jobber and thus much stiffer. Looks like a 3mm stub drill wil go to 16mm deep.
Left to right alignment on the drill press, you have no excuse. Put a 13mm bit in the chuck and use a square to align the table.
Front to back on cheap drills, they can sag a bit under gravity and more as the drilling pressure is applied. Rig up a piece of timber and some folding wedges and adjust until the square says it is correct.
Unfortunately this is a fixed head and fixed base - so I’d need a Reeeeeaaalllllly long drill bitAnother option is not to use the table of the drill press at all. Slide the head down the column or the base up the column. The shorter length of column will lead to less bending from that source. Check that the base is square to the quill in both directions from the factory.
Thanks- yes trying to make my own punch and die (8 holes in a 25mm circle) without a mill - so using a drill press. I’m using silver steel as well- I can buy it in the right size, and so far haven’t needed to harden it.There’s loads of styles of punch ends really dependant upon material thickness, material type and power source
I use silver steel as it’s so easy to harden.
I’ve probably missed the thread as there’s pictures of drill presses and rotary tables
OK - it seems as if I have a reason even if not an excuseLeft to right alignment on the drill press, you have no excuse. Put a 13mm bit in the chuck and use a square to align the table.
OK - it seems as if I have a reason even if not an excuse
Spent some time cussing as couldn't get it square for love nor money.
Then I twigged - and proved by 'spinning the table under the square' there's a high point on one part of the rotating table. Covers about 45 - 60degrees I suppose - so it's never going to be quite true using the square in one postion.
I don't have a straight edge or flat plate so I'm never going to get it flat... Oh - the joy.....