arther dailey
Member
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- 6,422
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- England
Thankyou 
, I will buy a couple thats for sure.cheers
, I will buy a couple thats for sure.cheers
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Tangledfeet
Think outside, no box required.
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- 3,111
- Location
- Top of a hill above St Andrews, Fife
Thankyou
Aww, cheers but no need - should you get any just let me know what size you bought and how you get on with them!
arther dailey
Member
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- 6,422
- Location
- England
will do
Dcal
Member
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- 3,954
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
@arther dailey the clamps are on offer in the MSC advantage flier this month, should save a couple of quid.
Tangledfeet
Think outside, no box required.
- Messages
- 3,111
- Location
- Top of a hill above St Andrews, Fife
arther dailey
Member
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- 6,422
- Location
- England
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 945
It’s an XT500 trail bike but it’s been used for classic motocross.
Thanks
, I’ve got an english wheel and a shrinker/stretcher setup so I wheeled the top and shrunk the back edge to get it to suck down over the edge. Once it was close I annealed it with a MAP torch and hammered the last bit over a form.
Dcal
Member
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- 3,954
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I got a bit closer to getting the Ford rubber wheeled digger back together.
Ii was a wet night but I put the cover for the levers back on.
I took it off because there was a bit of rot at the bottom that I discovered when I was investigating the foot pedal for the dipper arm extension.
Thought it was the valve, but it was just the pedal.
Made a new pin and straightened the pedal while I was at it.
I recon someone must have used a crow bar to get the jib extension back in at some time.
Of course once you get in, you see other problems so thought I'd fix the cover.
The steel is 1.2mm so easier than usual for this sort of thing.
I wasn't too fussy with this or bother filling it so just a couple of coats of Jotun 90 epoxy as a primer filler.
Let it dry for a day and a quick sand.
Then some matt grey 2K I got mixed.
The top cover wasn’t painted but the colour looks closer in real life.
I think the flash shows a bigger difference. (well that’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it)
The floor also got the Jotun treatment and some 2k with a brush which goes on really well.
I need to thank @arther dailey for that tip.
Ii was a wet night but I put the cover for the levers back on.
I took it off because there was a bit of rot at the bottom that I discovered when I was investigating the foot pedal for the dipper arm extension.
Thought it was the valve, but it was just the pedal.
Made a new pin and straightened the pedal while I was at it.
I recon someone must have used a crow bar to get the jib extension back in at some time.
Of course once you get in, you see other problems so thought I'd fix the cover.
The steel is 1.2mm so easier than usual for this sort of thing.
I wasn't too fussy with this or bother filling it so just a couple of coats of Jotun 90 epoxy as a primer filler.
Let it dry for a day and a quick sand.
Then some matt grey 2K I got mixed.
The top cover wasn’t painted but the colour looks closer in real life.
I think the flash shows a bigger difference. (well that’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it)
The floor also got the Jotun treatment and some 2k with a brush which goes on really well.
I need to thank @arther dailey for that tip.
selectedgrub
Member
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- 3,320
- Location
- New Zealand
An Iris and pupil
Kram
Member
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- 6,855
- Location
- Sussex
I cut about 3 meters of steel sheet for better storage and then I had a first proper go at tig. Tried, because after 30 seconds I got rain. So I cut up 8 meters of tubing for tomorrows project.
Then I decided to do something about welding and not being able to see. couple holes and mounted a decent head torch. Now I'd cleaned the lenses recently, about the time I made my lathe bench.. in 2015
. I guess I should do that too. I have replacements somewhere cant find them.
Then I decided to do something about welding and not being able to see. couple holes and mounted a decent head torch. Now I'd cleaned the lenses recently, about the time I made my lathe bench.. in 2015
. I guess I should do that too. I have replacements somewhere cant find them.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,917
- Location
- France, Brittany.
Very nice. Pink paint arghhh! (On the walls)...
Dcal
Member
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- 3,954
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I made the final piece to make my surface preparation tool work.
There is a bit of 10mm hardened bar that makes the tines of the wire brushes "flick" and strike the material being prepped at 90 degrees during use, so you don't polish the steel.
They are £20 which seem a bit excessive.
I made one out of stainless and ran it for a few seconds and it was obvious it would wear out very quickly.
Instead of just buying one, I thought I'd have a go at making a hardened one.
I started looking for 10mm 12.9 bolts and the like.
I have some silver steel the right size and a 10mm drill shank but both would have needed to be hardened after being drilled and tapped and I don't have the kit or skills to do that.
I did find some 10mm carbide tool steel that was certainly hard enough.
But how to mount it on the tool?
No way I could drill and tap it.
I decided to braze a washer and a 10mm bolt to it. I could then turn down the bolt and thread to the required M6.
I tigged it with sifcupron 17 tig rods I got cheap from Zoro.
Seemed to braze all right but was probably far too hot. When I tried to turn the bolt down, it became obvious some of the carbide had melted into the braze and was glass hard in places.
Also the braze didn't take to the carbide and just broke away when I was trying to turn it. (probably my overheating it again)
Tried a couple of times and got the same result.
So decided to try standard braze and flux with OA and that worked fine first time.
I made a dowel for the tail stock to keep the die straight, ran a M6 thread and installed it on the tool.
So what was it all for?
You can get a nice rough surface ready for paint in a few seconds.
Also takes off mill scale just as quickly.
Downsides?
The brushes are expensive (I paid £115 for 10 but the full price would have been over £300!)
The brushes don't last long and need to be sharpened by running them in reverse on a grinder.
The tool is also big and heavy compared to a proper one but my £30 grinder is twice the rated power, variable speed and more than fit to run the brushes.
I can also still turn it back into a burnishing sander if I want to polish a bit of stainless.
I’m thinking of making a spindle so I can use it as a standard variable speed polisher, but that is maybe just silly.
Vacuum extraction is certainly on the cards though.
It was a lot of work but I learnt a bit, enjoyed the process and have a tool I will use.
There is a bit of 10mm hardened bar that makes the tines of the wire brushes "flick" and strike the material being prepped at 90 degrees during use, so you don't polish the steel.
They are £20 which seem a bit excessive.
I made one out of stainless and ran it for a few seconds and it was obvious it would wear out very quickly.
Instead of just buying one, I thought I'd have a go at making a hardened one.
I started looking for 10mm 12.9 bolts and the like.
I have some silver steel the right size and a 10mm drill shank but both would have needed to be hardened after being drilled and tapped and I don't have the kit or skills to do that.
I did find some 10mm carbide tool steel that was certainly hard enough.
But how to mount it on the tool?
No way I could drill and tap it.
I decided to braze a washer and a 10mm bolt to it. I could then turn down the bolt and thread to the required M6.
I tigged it with sifcupron 17 tig rods I got cheap from Zoro.
Seemed to braze all right but was probably far too hot. When I tried to turn the bolt down, it became obvious some of the carbide had melted into the braze and was glass hard in places.
Also the braze didn't take to the carbide and just broke away when I was trying to turn it. (probably my overheating it again)
Tried a couple of times and got the same result.
So decided to try standard braze and flux with OA and that worked fine first time.
I made a dowel for the tail stock to keep the die straight, ran a M6 thread and installed it on the tool.
So what was it all for?
You can get a nice rough surface ready for paint in a few seconds.
Also takes off mill scale just as quickly.
Downsides?
The brushes are expensive (I paid £115 for 10 but the full price would have been over £300!)
The brushes don't last long and need to be sharpened by running them in reverse on a grinder.
The tool is also big and heavy compared to a proper one but my £30 grinder is twice the rated power, variable speed and more than fit to run the brushes.
I can also still turn it back into a burnishing sander if I want to polish a bit of stainless.
I’m thinking of making a spindle so I can use it as a standard variable speed polisher, but that is maybe just silly.
Vacuum extraction is certainly on the cards though.
It was a lot of work but I learnt a bit, enjoyed the process and have a tool I will use.
Last edited by a moderator:
lchris21
Member
- Messages
- 1,962
- Location
- South Wales
@lchris21 ,yes,then reamed 27/64” whole job went easier than imagined,and everyone’ pleased.Ca ching
I like it.....
..might do something similar......got the olde worlde wooden spindles...........last time I painted them took nearly 4 days 
....................I vowed never again........biomass plant for them nextAbout 1/3 of a current job for a dog breeder, 4 puppy pen doors and a security door at the end.
The smaller doors are 2 part and due to the builder who made the internal walls nothing plumb square or even! So 2 of the door jams are too small and have had to be re done, theirs a 8x12 external run and 2 window grills too this job
The smaller doors are 2 part and due to the builder who made the internal walls nothing plumb square or even! So 2 of the door jams are too small and have had to be re done, theirs a 8x12 external run and 2 window grills too this job
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,608
- Location
- Going Away.
I got this Mamod SP4 over the weekend.
One major part was missing, the dealer and I are in discussions about that. But it is looking good, foe me.
As you can see the chimney is missing.
It fired up and ran with out major leaks.
But the boiler was loose and the metal work was very dirty.
In steam, but what is that brown fluid?
No idea.
But the running showed the boiler was very loose.
New OE Mamod Rivets. Not cheep. But worth it. The base was cleaned and waxed with some turtle wax.
The whistle was removed, cleaned and new seals, the future holds a new spring for it. But it can wait.
With some elbow grease the brass and copper came up well. The steel I had to use some metal restore fluid.
Same shop I got the OE rivets had a replacement chimney is stock.
All done, it was steamed tonight and it has a classic sound to it.
One major part was missing, the dealer and I are in discussions about that. But it is looking good, foe me.
As you can see the chimney is missing.
It fired up and ran with out major leaks.
But the boiler was loose and the metal work was very dirty.
In steam, but what is that brown fluid?
No idea.
But the running showed the boiler was very loose.
New OE Mamod Rivets. Not cheep. But worth it. The base was cleaned and waxed with some turtle wax.
The whistle was removed, cleaned and new seals, the future holds a new spring for it. But it can wait.
With some elbow grease the brass and copper came up well. The steel I had to use some metal restore fluid.
Same shop I got the OE rivets had a replacement chimney is stock.
All done, it was steamed tonight and it has a classic sound to it.
