Stuff you have fixed today

[sako243]

Maybe they've improved it by now, when it first came out I found it difficult to work with, wouldn't "wet" or flow like the leaded type I was used to, maybe I should have changed my technique?.
Still got a few rolls of leaded which will outlast my needs.

It melts slightly higher than leaded stuff but I've not had an issue with wetting. My normal solder station I normally have set to 230(ish)°C

 

[Gragson]

Nice install

Do you have a link for the air intake pipe and the air intake pipe bends please? I need some of them for adjusting my setup to include for a radiator.

Hi, these are the hoses, they came within a week for me.

200cm Heater Exhaust Pipe Stainless Steel Exhaust Tubing Flexible Oil Vent Hose | eBay

<li> Features: -Made of stainless steel, which is safe and hygienic, has the advantages of corrosion resistance, wear resistance, and is sturdy and durable. -The exhaust pipe has a good noise reduction effect, which can effectively reduce the noise for you. -With two clamps to better hold the...

www.ebay.co.uk

25mm 42mm 60mm 75mm Duct Pipe For Air Diesel Parking Heater Ducting Pipe Hose | eBay

1 x Air Heater Duct Pipe. 42mm-150cm: ãID: 42mm, OD: 46mmã Before stretching length : 65cm After stretching length : 150cm. 42mm-300cm: ãID: 42mm, OD: 46mmã Before stretching length : 150cm After stretching length : 300cm.

www.ebay.co.uk

I got the alloy 90 deg 22mm OD elbows locally and cut them down

 

[JOEPRO]

Hi, these are the hoses, they came within a week for me.

200cm Heater Exhaust Pipe Stainless Steel Exhaust Tubing Flexible Oil Vent Hose | eBay

<li> Features: -Made of stainless steel, which is safe and hygienic, has the advantages of corrosion resistance, wear resistance, and is sturdy and durable. -The exhaust pipe has a good noise reduction effect, which can effectively reduce the noise for you. -With two clamps to better hold the...

www.ebay.co.uk

25mm 42mm 60mm 75mm Duct Pipe For Air Diesel Parking Heater Ducting Pipe Hose | eBay

1 x Air Heater Duct Pipe. 42mm-150cm: ãID: 42mm, OD: 46mmã Before stretching length : 65cm After stretching length : 150cm. 42mm-300cm: ãID: 42mm, OD: 46mmã Before stretching length : 150cm After stretching length : 300cm.

www.ebay.co.uk

I got the alloy 90 deg 22mm OD elbows locally and cut them down

Thanks for that- for the bends I can bend my own 22mm copper pipe which will do the trick. I'll maybe etch prime and spray em black too.

 

[minimutly]

That's the point. All military spec. hardware has to use leaded solder. It's less likely to suffer premature failure from thermal stress or vibration.

From memory the solder supplied with the Heathkit stuff we used as apprentices smelled of pork sausages...

 

[dobbslc]

That was you burning your fingers!

 

[Farside]

That was you burning your fingers!

See smoke, remove thumb.

 

[Cobbler]

See smoke, remove thumb.

That’s a bit drastic

 

[pawsnizzy]

That's the point. All military spec. hardware has to use leaded solder. It's less likely to suffer premature failure from thermal stress or vibration.

It's more to do with the uncontrollable 'whiskering' of unleaded solder, potentially lethal (and therefore not used) in aerospace/defence applications

 

[bricol]

That's the point. All military spec. hardware has to use leaded solder. It's less likely to suffer premature failure from thermal stress or vibration.

Which, according to my Lucas Aerospace (as was) working mate was why they used crimp terminals rather than solder ones - didn't wick up the wire and cause the break up under the insulation.

So working on the theory of what's good enough for them . . . my much vibration suffering trials car hasn't had a wiring failure in 20 yrs of abuse, wired from scratch by me.

 

[Seadog]

You can't crimp components onto the boards, though. But a valid comment for wiring.

 

[sako243]

Which, according to my Lucas Aerospace (as was) working mate was why they used crimp terminals rather than solder ones - didn't wick up the wire and cause the break up under the insulation.

So working on the theory of what's good enough for them . . . my much vibration suffering trials car hasn't had a wiring failure in 20 yrs of abuse, wired from scratch by me.

You can't crimp components onto the boards, though. But a valid comment for wiring.

Crimped connectors are preferred because they are repeatable and can used calibrated equipment to ensure repeatability and therefore reliability. Soldering connections can be done but requires skilled workers to do it (like welding a joint vs bolting it) therefore is not as repeatable nor reliable. For some connections (high speed or high frequency RF) you have no option but to solder them because they're ****ed if they are crimped.

To emphasise just how skilled you might need be to be here's a first hand account. My old job we were having a lot of failures of a particular system we were building - it was failing production tests. A colleague of mine did some investigating and tracked it down to a particular component, an OCXO (oven controlled crystal oscillator) and furthermore tracked it down to a batch of them from the manufacturer. They were duly removed from the circuit board (no mean feat) and shipped back to the supplier in the states at great cost given this single chip was a sizable percentage of the PCB's cost which was in 5 digits.

The manufacturer did some analysis of their own and examined the batch - it was narrowed down to a batch of solder if I recall correctly which had slightly different characteristics (these oscillators had their own PCB inside the oven). This resulted in roughly 1% more solder begin deposited on a single wired connection inside the device. That was enough to completely shaft the performance of the system it was built into.

 

[Keithmac]

I rebuilt a Yamaha YZF-R 125 a few weeks back for none runner, low compression.

Stripped it all down and only thing wrong was head gasket. Head and cylinder still perfectly flat.

When putting it back together I did think it was a pretty poor design and would be very easy to miss-fit the camchain on lower crank sprocket.

Well roll on a couple of weeks and I got a Yamaha WR-125 in (same engine).

Had had a major service and new timing chain fitted at another shop.

To me this looks like the timing chain was riding on the outside of the crank sprocket and eventually ground the teeth off?.

Customer is weighing up options, a new crank, piston and set of valves should make a decent engine again, valve guides look OK.

 

[Bullet2012]

incorrect chain ?

 

[Keithmac]

incorrect chain ?

It fits perfectly across the cam sprocket which is still in good order, the chain itself doesn't look in bad condition either.

 

[Robotstar5]

I rebuilt a Yamaha YZF-R 125 a few weeks back for none runner, low compression.

Stripped it all down and only thing wrong was head gasket. Head and cylinder still perfectly flat.

When putting it back together I did think it was a pretty poor design and would be very easy to miss-fit the camchain on lower crank sprocket.

Well roll on a couple of weeks and I got a Yamaha WR-125 in (same engine).

Had had a major service and new timing chain fitted at another shop.

To me this looks like the timing chain was riding on the outside of the crank sprocket and eventually ground the teeth off?.

Customer is weighing up options, a new crank, piston and set of valves should make a decent engine again, valve guides look OK.

View attachment 479878View attachment 479879View attachment 479880

It's easy to get the chain in the wrong place, I found this one at work