MattF
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We'll likely soon know. Can't see why it wouldn't.
- Thread starter skotl
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We'll likely soon know. Can't see why it wouldn't.
Have you tried this yet?
PLA Glue Gloop - 15ml Squeeze tube
Glue Gloop! is designed specifically for bonding prints together! This product cannot be shipped outside of the Mainland of GB due to international shipping restrictions. Based on our amazing 3D Gloop! formula, Glue Gloop! is thicker and packaged in a syringe tube for precision applications...
3dprintz.co.uk
Hopefuldave
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Only worrry, PLA is a "hydrolytic" plastic, can start degrading in the presence of water - one of the ways it biodegrades
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Translucent PETG would work. Scroll to the bottom of the page:
I've Gone and Done Something Mental
Now this is interesting... The pen holder test finished but has ABS contamination in it! Slightly clogged nozzle? Maybe try a cold pull when changing filaments...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
MattF
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Have you tried this yet?
PLA Glue Gloop - 15ml Squeeze tube
Glue Gloop! is designed specifically for bonding prints together! This product cannot be shipped outside of the Mainland of GB due to international shipping restrictions. Based on our amazing 3D Gloop! formula, Glue Gloop! is thicker and packaged in a syringe tube for precision applications...
£12.99? You are asking that question of a Scot.
Hopefuldave
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How about the Silicone glue in Hobbycraft? Sticks like the proverbial to a blanket - or simple silicone sealant, the crystal clear stuff's pretty good?£12.99? You are asking that question of a Scot.
skotl
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Ah jeez... PLA is going to melt in the rain, reacts to glue like water to oil 
why couldn't you all tell me that before?
Filament arrives tomorrow... and the transformer in the box is a sealed plastic unit, so what's the worst that can happen?
why couldn't you all tell me that before?Filament arrives tomorrow... and the transformer in the box is a sealed plastic unit, so what's the worst that can happen?
ajlelectronics
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Ah jeez... PLA is going to melt in the rain, reacts to glue like water to oil
Filament arrives tomorrow... and the transformer in the box is a sealed plastic unit, so what's the worst that can happen?
Lesson 1...
For pretty; PLA.
For functional and ease of printing; PETg
Agroshield
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Don't glue at all. Design the parts so the path for the water to enter is tortuous and requires the water to go uphill.
O-rings are a possibility in conjunction with a snap-together connection. Look at how food containers are made. No glue there.
If the filament is not rain proof, can you varnish or shellac it?
Let the water in, direct it so it does not touch the transformer and have a drain hole to let it out again.
PhillipM
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Ah jeez... PLA is going to melt in the rain, reacts to glue like water to oil
Filament arrives tomorrow... and the transformer in the box is a sealed plastic unit, so what's the worst that can happen?
I mean, I didn't say PMMA was a better choice for nothing.
But just because PLA is biodegradable doesn't mean it's going to be much of an issue outside. It takes years in a composter with heat and pressure to break down.
skotl
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I'm committed now - the £12.99 is spent!
skotl
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Well, that was utterly underwhelming
I dropped the infill to 10%, sanded it and bathed it in solvent and it's hardly much more transparent then white PLA
I went and checked it again later in the evening and I guess that, in the dark, it does what I needed - I can tell what colour of lights are on under the hood:
Just...
(by the way, the roughness around the edges are the superglue leaking, not poor printing or hole-cutting!)
I dropped the infill to 10%, sanded it and bathed it in solvent and it's hardly much more transparent then white PLA
I went and checked it again later in the evening and I guess that, in the dark, it does what I needed - I can tell what colour of lights are on under the hood:
Just...
(by the way, the roughness around the edges are the superglue leaking, not poor printing or hole-cutting!)
Hopefuldave
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All the write-ups say to use a 100% infill to get the window transparent....Well, that was utterly underwhelming
I dropped the infill to 10%, sanded it and bathed it in solvent and it's hardly much more transparent then white PLA
View attachment 413910
View attachment 413909
I went and checked it again later in the evening and I guess that, in the dark, it does what I needed - I can tell what colour of lights are on under the hood:
Just...
View attachment 413911
(by the way, the roughness around the edges are the superglue leaking, not poor printing or hole-cutting!)
How big's the hole? I have some offcuts of UV resistant polycarbonate, if they're wide enough I could cut a (square) bit and put it in an envelope (or may have some cool-looking quartz windows with vacuum-tight seals...)
skotl
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Well, that's the thing... most articles I read said "as little infill as you can get away with" while others state 100%
The hole is 50mm. Although technically, it's now zero as some fool superglued PLA into it
PhillipM
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Solvent isn't going to help much with PLA, it's resistant to most of the common ones apart from really nasty stuff.
As for infill, you either want none, and just walls, or 100%. Nothing else. And be overextruding slightly, and printing HOT. And dry the roll first if you have a dehumidifier.
As for infill, you either want none, and just walls, or 100%. Nothing else. And be overextruding slightly, and printing HOT. And dry the roll first if you have a dehumidifier.
Hopefuldave
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I have some of that clear polycarbonate 61mm wide 5mm thick , could cut a couple of squares (or even try turning it to 50mm with a 5mm flange around it) and pop it in an envelope? The posh quartz windows with fitting flange are a bit small for a 50mm hole!
PM if that'd be useful, *exact* hole diameter, and how thick the flange needs to be if it'll turn down OK...
PM if that'd be useful, *exact* hole diameter, and how thick the flange needs to be if it'll turn down OK...
skotl
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That would be very kind - I'll PM you - thanks
