40mm i/d internal bearing puller

[morph]

As Bill said, weld the outer race and it’ll fall out. I only ever use pullers if I need to save the bearing otherwise it’s welder and/or gas...

 

[waddycall]

I once made a bearing puller that fits between the inner and outer race. It had two legs made from excess ball end Allen keys. I ground a flat on two sides of the ball ends so they could drop in between the two races and then twist to lock in place.
Worked the same as the puller shown in post 20. I used box section for the cross bar and welded a nut on for the screw.

 

[8ob]

I have the proper bearing tool but still use the welded nut/slide hammer routine for anything stuck in a blind hole.Heat from the welding always helps.

 

[Woody.v8]

I've used a rawlbolt in the past on motorbike wheel bearings.

 

[Bravheart]

As @Bill Edwards if you don't need the bearing again that's the way to go. No idea how it works but it does.

 

[bricol]

I think he's going to need a big oven for that one

I might be spoilt - I have access to a big oven - comfortably take big engine blocks.

Aluminium expands a lot more than steel - assuming its not a part that gets too hot in use, the fit between bearing and housing itsnt going to be too bad an interference, so even heating around it with hot air gun will help.
Whichever, I'd certainly be trying to get it out in a straight line - cockle it and the fits ******** for the replacement.

 

[p0689109]

Does it come out as an assembly on the inside of the casing? If so wont it drift out? As for the bearing removal tool from which side will that be fitted then?

 

[RichardM]

Have you got a welder?
Take the cage out, drill through a couple of rivets and then pull it off with pliers, move all the balls to one side and the inner race will come out, weld a ring around inside of bearing outer race, let cool and it will shrink and most likely drop out.

 

[Brad93]

Internal bearing puller, the slide hammer type or a race type bearing puller. Neither have to be expensive or you can spend a fortune on SKF pullers.

often find Sykes pullers for not too much money

 

[Mike B]

Beta tools do a dummy bearing puller set. Of all places demon tweeks is the cheapest at around £150 for the set. Well made and pretty versatile

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

5 mins today and it was out, replacement was a few quid on ebay.

It had to come out to let the shaft be pressed out, its seated against this circlip on the other side.

What are your thoughts on reusing this shaft, or paying £280 for a new one. This is the best of the two.

 

[Ashley Burton]

@RaceDiagnostics I would use it, Compared to the other one!

 

[mr haynes]

Clean it up and remove any nicks

 

[roofman]

I would use that no problem myself

 

[SierraV6]

As @Bill Edwards if you don't need the bearing again that's the way to go. No idea how it works but it does.

I think it works because the bearing race wants to expand but obviously can’t, it does however shrink as it cools down. There must be some considerable forces involved thinking about it. If anybody knows different though please explain!

It’s a great little trick, I use it on wheel bearings a lot.

 

[Bill Edwards]

It’s dead simple.
As weld metal cools it contracts which we see whenever we’re trying to weld something square and it pulls towards the weld as it cools.

Do that inside a circular object and that contraction is enough to shrink it considerably.


As an extra, the heat would be enough to undo any retaining compound and the forced shrinkage would break a rust bond.

 

[James1979]

It’s dead simple.
As weld metal cools it contracts which we see whenever we’re trying to weld something square and it pulls towards the weld as it cools.

Do that inside a circular object and that contraction is enough to shrink it considerably.


As an extra, the heat would be enough to undo any retaining compound and the forced shrinkage would break a rust bond.

Well put