7018 problems.

[olek]

croissants 10 mis a 130c
coc au vin 2hrsa 180c
bouef bourguinon .....
escargots de bourgogne .....
jambon persille.......

avec une boutielle de la OVD rum its a good drink for welders( Overhead Vertical Downhand)

one professional gives me that trick : to stop shaking while welding, 2 bottles of beer ...

 

[zeppelin builder]

ha worked with serimar dasa years ago and tried to wind up the foreman about haggis a small animal with one leg and one short adapted for steep hills very shy and hard to catch no problem he said just whistle and it turn round and fall over ( he was ex foreign legion)

 

[olek]

ha worked with serimar dasa years ago and tried to wind up the foreman about haggis a small animal with one leg and one short adapted for steep hills very shy and hard to catch no problem he said just whistle and it turn round and fall over ( he was ex foreign legion)

Not haggis, but "le dahu" (it is the same but the short legs are on the other side

 

[Mid Wales welder]

Not sure if already said but flick the rod when you stop and it will help with re starts. Make sure your not flicking that molten ball onto anything or anyone though lol

 

[olek]

Not sure if already said but flick the rod when you stop and it will help with re starts. Make sure your not flicking that molten ball onto anything or anyone though lol

It works assuming you remember doing so at each end of weld. With 7018 I always have a "martyr" plate, very useful to burn the rod if the coating miss because of sticking. Very light motion on the plate burns the metal very fast. Then I flick, or I begin to weld immediately.
I seem to discover than tapping is better than scratch start..
And always, enough amps...

 

[olek]

Here are 7810 2.5 mm vertical up
Electrode negative then positive
90 95 amps. No arc force

At 80 the slag does not come easy and the rod tend to stick.

Regards

https://photos.app.goo.gl/S0S5ZVeV8jZTTQ0Q2

 

[olek]

But at 88A it give time and the slag almost fall by itself. I did standard vertical up 7018

At some point I begun to see well the puddle cooling from left right etc. Not as easy to see with 7018 than 6013 I think, as the arc shine much if compared to the puddle (and the color of the arc is more tiring I think)
When welding flat I see the puddle better with 70180.I don't get why...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vjlDnsPfCvs9rD2K2

 

[olek]

I burned my pants, (no pics) I think it is a sure sign-in Progressing, is not it?

 

[Bill Edwards]

It just means you're starting to learn the basics

 

[zeppelin builder]

most people dont use the proper starting technique move forward say 20mm from where your start is dont peck the rod on the metal all you will do is break the coating off place a finger near the end of the rod apply a bit of pressure whilst dragging toward that start no hurry you will move to the start and then go in the direction of the weld this gives the rod time to burn the metal below the coating to form the gaseous shield if you simply start the rod the first 6 mm of the rod will have pores evident .i cant imagine any situ ation to restart a 7018 it can be done but it needs a long tail in to burn properly another technique when capping in middle runs is to tail the starts in, move back 20mm along side the stop, start rod and move forward then turn into the start ,any impurities will be in the start tail alongside the cap run proper ,grind them back before commencing next run

 

[olek]

This explains a lot, thanks, indeed porous starts 7018 and disappointing restarts, I am now going (to work at "La Réunion island" in the full Austral winter at 25 deg c, I sacrifice myself to the task

But I can't wait to give a try, may be this afternoon before going...

I begin to know what I want to see when welding, I perceived that as a jump!
Focusing on small 2.5 rods, is it good for learning or should I prefer 3.2 for more easyness?
here a small corner I did yesterday
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jHDKwXcxVUWCX7H23
Focusing on rod placement and angle, using no fantasy just Z but mainly I want to see or imagine the puddle.

Better grade screen will help for sighting I hope

A nice day to you. Thanks again

 

[olek]

another technique when capping in middle runs is to tail the starts in, move back 20mm along side the stop, start rod and move forward then turn into the start ,any impurities will be in the start tail alongside the cap run proper ,grind them back before commencing next run

Please, do you mean you begin under your starting point in direction of the "tail" (the part to be grinded ) then make a turn toward the real start (makings back and forth motion on the condemned portion, or on an added piece at the beginning of the weld also, for instance)?

Regards

 

[zeppelin builder]

at the beginning 20 mm before the stop of your last rod it will run up and alongside then quickly turn in at that point to continue ,after completion take grinder up along side grind tails out and straighten run if needed ,any wobbles can be rectified before starting next pass

dont need any attempt to make the tail clean its being ground any way this is the way to restart an old rod too if needed but on a real job dont restart rods not worth getting defects for the cost of a rod

 

[olek]

alongside : run from 20 mm under the end of bead (in the normal direction)but on its side, then jump in on the tail , or prepped end, of the precedent bead ? sorry my English shows its limits ; making the tail clean, you mean , the new tail, the one on the side of the precedent bead (it is a restart anyway)

there is no process where you go one way then switch direction to go on your start position (that is what I understood at first)

it is so easy, even when exchanging in mother langage, to miss the point with technical gesture explanations...I often have to multiply tge details if I am to explain some gesture to a colleague.


wobbles are rectified generally speaking I suppose, they only can give trouble with the next bead , providing a false visual ?

 

[zeppelin builder]

Here is a tail in

 

[zeppelin builder]

And step by step normal start on last run old 70l8 been out in the damp for 2 years

 

[olek]

Great thank you, a sketch is 100 times better than 1000 words.

Cool guide along the bead, what sort of grinding disk to use, I have one that is clearly not very efficient at east on weld, I can work really for a long time, not aggressive enough. Is there a brand or a reference, a type of grinding wheel?

Weld almost as nice as mines (<<= I am joking don't be jalous!)
Damp rod spatter and arc inconsistencies ? I don't know how recent it is but my Esab 48. 00 are H4R, I did find a study where they find that Ptfe added as a binder sort of protects the hyrod from moisture (up to a point I suppose, as 9 hours for radio controlled jobs,) I could find the doc.

Cheers thanks agin for the pics twice the same?

Normal start is where you begin going down 2 cm to light the rod then backward in the normal welding direction?

 

[Brad93]

Great thank you, a sketch is 100 times better than 1000 words.

Cool guide along the bead, what sort of grinding disk to use, I have one that is clearly not very efficient at east on weld, I can work really for a long time, not aggressive enough. Is there a brand or a reference, a type of grinding wheel?

Weld almost as nice as mines (<<= I am joking don't be jalous!)
Damp rod spatter and arc inconsistencies ? I don't know how recent it is but my Esab 48. 00 are H4R, I did find a study where they find that Ptfe added as a binder sort of protects the hyrod from moisture (up to a point I suppose, as 9 hours for radio controlled jobs,) I could find the doc.

Cheers thanks agin for the pics twice the same?

Normal start is where you begin going down 2 cm to light the rod then backward in the normal welding direction?

The H4R classification/criteria is fairly new for the OK48.00.
H4 or H5 will have no bearing on your porosity or poor performance. It's merely the diffused hydrogen content.
As you say it's a coating added to the rod to reduce the amount of moisture the coating is able to absorb.

The biggest cause of porosity with a 7018 is a long arc.

 

[zeppelin builder]

Thought i try some old 4mm tenacito 70l8 tin was opened in 1995 and was lying in a corner of the w.shop since, tried burning part rods and re starts ,ground the starts and no evidence of porosity, must be the indian summer that were getting up here

 

[zeppelin builder]

Here is a part used electrode note the small funnel shape at the end
The metal is about 3 mm back so to complete an electrical circuit to workpiece you have to push it off to expose the core . use a gloved thumb
The wood pecker way will only break a large bit of coating off and give you more problems
Here is a re start with that rod