7018 rods

[E T]

Interesting. I've only ever run dcen on root before and it sound horrible. What do you normally weld budy?

For open root in a V prep I use 7016 because they run a lot better on DCEN than most 7018 and the puddle is less fluid which makes it a lot easier to control.
For the root pass on a fillet weld or any closed weld (no gap) I just run 7018 on DCEP.

 

[Mick Annick]

Interesting. I've only ever run dcen on root before and it sound horrible. What do you normally weld budy?

I’m an amateur bodger sticking stuff together mainly for my own amusement, though have been doing a few paid jobs of late. Using a Lorch Micorstick 160 using 2.5mm or 3.2mm 6013 Bohler AWS, DECEP, sometimes use 7018 if I’ve got something larger to do.

 

[premmington]

I always run 7018's DCEP - they light up OK with an inverter at 100+ OCV.

What I can never do is re light them.

I can never get a 7018 to strike up again.

I have tried flicking them when I have finished a pass.

I just can't do it.


What does everybody else do?

 

[Mick Annick]

I always run 7018's DCEP - they light up OK with an inverter at 100+ OCV.

What I can never do is re light them.

I can never get a 7018 to strike up again.

I have tried flicking them when I have finished a pass.

I just can't do it.


What does everybody else do?

I have the same problem, hence I only use them where I’ve got a reasonable length of bead to lay.

 

[premmington]

I have the same problem, hence I only use them where I’ve got a reasonable length of bead to lay.

Glad I am not the only one

 

[E T]

I always run 7018's DCEP - they light up OK with an inverter at 100+ OCV.

What I can never do is re light them.

I can never get a 7018 to strike up again.

I have tried flicking them when I have finished a pass.

I just can't do it.


What does everybody else do?

I scrape the flux cone of on a file before restriking so there is bare metal on the end of the rod an that works good enough for me.
They tend to stick easier on restrikes, but getting your technique right solves most of that.

 

[Dcal]

I always run 7018's DCEP - they light up OK with an inverter at 100+ OCV.

What I can never do is re light them.

I can never get a 7018 to strike up again.

I have tried flicking them when I have finished a pass.

I just can't do it.


What does everybody else do?

The flux solidifies over the end of the rod as it cools and its basically glass.
All of the above will break through it and help with restarts but, don't be shy, just batter the end of the rod and they will light up again.
Being subtle won't work.
If you are doing critical work don't bother trying to restart them just junk the long stub, however for normal stuff they will restart just fine.
I love 7018 because they will work in any position and good ones (Elga, Bohler, ESAB, Lincoln etc.) all flatter a diy welder like me.

 

[premmington]

The flux solidifies over the end of the rod as it cools and its basically glass.
All of the above will break through it and help with restarts but, don't be shy, just batter the end of the rod and they will light up again.
Being subtle won't work.
If you are doing critical work don't bother trying to restart them just junk the long stub, however for normal stuff they will restart just fine.
I love 7018 because they will work in any position and good ones (Elga, Bohler, ESAB, Lincoln etc.) all flatter a diy welder like me.

I have tried this approach - smash the end in - but all the flux falls off the first part of the rod. Brutal...

If it is mission critical as you say - I end up with pile full of long stubs everywhere!

It can be done - one of my retired customers at our garage - 70 year ex plater/welder - showed me once - he flicked the electrode when he finished welding.

Same chap showed me how to arc up a scratch start TIG torch with a flick of the filler rod. Usefull trick that has proved to be.

 

[TechnicAl]

The flux solidifies over the end of the rod as it cools and its basically glass.
All of the above will break through it and help with restarts but, don't be shy, just batter the end of the rod and they will light up again.
Being subtle won't work.
If you are doing critical work don't bother trying to restart them just junk the long stub, however for normal stuff they will restart just fine.
I love 7018 because they will work in any position and good ones (Elga, Bohler, ESAB, Lincoln etc.) all flatter a diy welder like me.

There are some that re-strike easily........Im not sure if they still are made but we used to make Lincoln Hyrod 7028 and a Gricon 41.........They tend to be those that have the black glassy slag.....they are actually 7018/6013 hybrids but it depends where the balance has been made,...... more 6013 or more 7018........
We used to dip the end in a graphite "paint" or metal spray the ends.......striking isnt easy before its been used.

 

[Bornfree]

I always run 7018's DCEP - they light up OK with an inverter at 100+ OCV.

What I can never do is re light them.

I can never get a 7018 to strike up again.

I have tried flicking them when I have finished a pass.

I just can't do it.


What does everybody else do?

Scrape it on the concrete floor and start half an inch from where you need to. To burn away the unfluxed bit. It don't look pretty but I don't do cosmetic welding.

 

[Brad93]

Break the flux cup with your thumb, tap and twist gets the rod restarted. It's a skill that only comes from running boxes of rods.

 

[Brad93]

Still if you're doing any kind of certified or important work, bin the rod, grab a new one. The cost is inconsequential compared to grinding a bad start out or getting arc strikes everywhere.

 

[Brad93]

Having nightmares onsite running some stainless rods off an Arcgen at the minute. One, the dial is way outta whack. 70 on the dial feels like 90.
Two, I'm getting really bad arc blow.

Stainless to Mild Steel. Luckily I don't think I've got any more vertical to do, the rest should be flat.

ESAB 309MoL

 

[Munkul]

I always run 7018's DCEP - they light up OK with an inverter at 100+ OCV.

What I can never do is re light them.

I can never get a 7018 to strike up again.

I have tried flicking them when I have finished a pass.

I just can't do it.


What does everybody else do?

A quick scrape across concrete to break the cap off the end. It doesn't need to be savage, and it doesn't need to break a whole load of flux off

 

[damiehaugh_13]

Hi
could really use some advice on which is the best 7018 welding rod to do the 6g test, using Oerlikon at present but can’t seem to get the right amp ?

 

[Barking Mat]

Hi
could really use some advice on which is the best 7018 welding rod to do the 6g test, using Oerlikon at present but can’t seem to get the right amp ?

Best to start a thread on this or buy some respected names rods.

Can't help you, never found any 7018's over here.

 

[damiehaugh_13]

Thanks, I already did but have only had 1 reply stating to maybe start with a 7016 before moving in to 7018 ??

 

[Prajna]

My welding bench is an old pallet and I have a broken off piece of scythe sharpening stone jammed in between the slats. A gentle scrape on that and a 7018 restarts just fine. But watch out for porosity at the start, especially if you scrape too much flux off.

 

[zeppelin builder]

7018s on ac, never seen the appeal although in theory you should have the best of both worlds and no arc blow.

many moons ago we used filarc 56s and 88s on ac for structural and pipe
old shipyard pots with 80v oc and all the grid for settings worn off. you set the juice highish for a 3.25 for downhand the used a 4mm to kill it for verts
the test a 6g was ac too quite a lot of welders dipped it

 

[zeppelin builder]

My welding bench is an old pallet and I have a broken off piece of scythe sharpening stone jammed in between the slats. A gentle scrape on that and a 7018 restarts just fine. But watch out for porosity at the start, especially if you scrape too much flux off.

no professional welder re starts a lo hy
rods are cheap rejected welds are not