madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
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The unloaded will just lift when there is sufficient pressure behind it
- Thread starter Rhysd1309
- Start date
Ah ok I'm starting to understand, so that arm under the fuel tank moves does it whilst running?
I still can't see why the throttle leaver has to push against that spring though when you operate it manually.
mike 109444
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If this CHONDA engine is so much like the HONDA engine (parts interchangeable) then go on the honda web site for a matching manual !
mike 109444
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When one of these CHONDA engines was mentioned the other night on here I went looking on ebay (as you do....) Did find this, might be of interest...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Throttle-...compressor-55hp-65HP-TCSPH5565B-/200778473987
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Throttle-...compressor-55hp-65HP-TCSPH5565B-/200778473987
the snooper
getting older by the day
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that spring is connected to a flap behind the red cover and relies on air created by the flywheel to regulate the speed, if the engine slows the air produced is less which allows the throttle to open which obviously speeds up the engine increasing the air again regulating the throttle
brightspark
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normspanners
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Right--- the pressure steadly builds in the tank untill a preset pressure is reached, the unloader valve then opens and the tank pressure flows into the unloader pipe to the cyl heads inlet valves there is a small piston in each that then holds the inlet valves open, stopping the compressor producing pressure but no significant air flows through the unloader pipe , it remains like that until the tank pressure drops enough for the unloader valve to pop closed it doesnt do it slowly it snaps closed that then allows the inlet valves to shut and the compressor starts pumping again and creating pressure that then builds up the tank and the cycle begins again.
But that engine will produce enough power near to idle to keep the pump 'ticking over' it will produce air but not as much as when running at governor speed.
But you dont need masses of air all the time so just have a throttle cable and you decide how fast it runs.
It only runs fast to give the compressor its specified max CFM but will still produce air at a slower speed, the power required from the engine is relative, the slower the compressor revs the less power required from the engine, down to a certain point at which the engine will stall so you just need to keep it at its 'happy speed' untill you decide you need more air, then YOU open the throttle.
I used to run my tyre machine off a 1ph compressor half the size of yours, when fitting tyres in the middle of the night, with no problems, it saved starting the big 3ph thumper that would have annoyed the neighbors because it ran for ten minutes to build up, whereas the little 1ph was up to pressure in a minute and most of the time with tyre fitting it is pressure not flow that is required ( apart from a difficult bead ) then leaving the tyre valve out was tried first then, I used a one shot bead blaster, again that was pressure in a small cyl , so the little compressor filled that fine.
I think you will only need the compressor to run fast for the first fill from empty so save fuel and noise!!
But that engine will produce enough power near to idle to keep the pump 'ticking over' it will produce air but not as much as when running at governor speed.
But you dont need masses of air all the time so just have a throttle cable and you decide how fast it runs.
It only runs fast to give the compressor its specified max CFM but will still produce air at a slower speed, the power required from the engine is relative, the slower the compressor revs the less power required from the engine, down to a certain point at which the engine will stall so you just need to keep it at its 'happy speed' untill you decide you need more air, then YOU open the throttle.
I used to run my tyre machine off a 1ph compressor half the size of yours, when fitting tyres in the middle of the night, with no problems, it saved starting the big 3ph thumper that would have annoyed the neighbors because it ran for ten minutes to build up, whereas the little 1ph was up to pressure in a minute and most of the time with tyre fitting it is pressure not flow that is required ( apart from a difficult bead ) then leaving the tyre valve out was tried first then, I used a one shot bead blaster, again that was pressure in a small cyl , so the little compressor filled that fine.
I think you will only need the compressor to run fast for the first fill from empty so save fuel and noise!!
Thanks for the advise, I have always had compressors with electric shut offs, so this thing is just alien! I'm glad you think the capacity is enough, I think your right in saying that it's the pressure that's the most important here.
I was trying to get my head around how the throttle closed just by pushing on the spring, but am I right I saying the flap on the carb is spring loaded, so when you release the throttle, it is where the Rod attaches to the carb that pulls the throttle arm back straight?
Bear with me......
normspanners
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I have got one of those engine s somewhere A bit late now to look but how most work is they have a cooling fan on the crank and a flap in the cooling air flow to the cyl head as the engine speeds up the flap is pushed by the airflow against the spring that then closes the throttle because otherwise the engine would 'run away' as the engine revs drop the air flow is slower that allows the flaps spring to pull the throttle open until the revs keep the fans airflow at a predetermined point ie the 'set by you' governed speed.
The flap BTW is NOT the butterfly in the carb it is a tin flap that is blown by the cooling air flow.
So you now have the situation that the pump begins to work, so it slows the engine slightly that lowers the revs and therefore the fans air flow which then allows the flap to be pulled back by its spring that then opens the throttle and produces more power and increases the speed ie revs up back to the preset fans airflow. Keeping the engine rev at a steadyish speed. That works until the engine is at wide open throttle for the given speed but you have that much load the revs begin to drop, then you are beyond the rated power of the engine and it will begin to stall. YOUR engine should NEVER reach that situation because it is more than powerful enough for that pump.
The flap BTW is NOT the butterfly in the carb it is a tin flap that is blown by the cooling air flow.
So you now have the situation that the pump begins to work, so it slows the engine slightly that lowers the revs and therefore the fans air flow which then allows the flap to be pulled back by its spring that then opens the throttle and produces more power and increases the speed ie revs up back to the preset fans airflow. Keeping the engine rev at a steadyish speed. That works until the engine is at wide open throttle for the given speed but you have that much load the revs begin to drop, then you are beyond the rated power of the engine and it will begin to stall. YOUR engine should NEVER reach that situation because it is more than powerful enough for that pump.
Thanks for such a detailed response, Its clicked with me now, i had a tinker with it earlier, runs great, but occasionally stalls, and struggles to restart? Then once started (normally have to put it at high revs to start) it will be fine again for a few minutes. I have drilled a small hole in the fuel cap just in case a vacuum had been created, but no difference. I'm not too sure how much it would affect it, but the throttle arm has a lot of resistance, where it is bolted down, this keeps the arm in whatever position you pull it too, would this affect the governor spring? I have loosened it off, but haven't tried it since to be honest.
Also, would 1/2" pipe be too restrictive for an exhaust?, it would be around 1.5 meters long, not sure whether to cut small hole in roof and poke it out of there, or just aim it towards back door (but would mean doors would always have to be open)
normspanners
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It sounds to me as if it is over fueling Ie the mixture is wrong or the float valve is leaking allowing too much fuel into the carb and it is flooding the engine the usual signs are the engine sounding 'heavy' smelling of fuel then hard to start when warm give it full throttle which gives it more air and helps clean the plug, and then it starts, the way to test is to close the fuel tap as it is running if it picks up and runs better for ashort time then begines to die as it runs out of fuel, you then open the tap and it picks back up then starts to hunt again repeat closing the tap etc, you are then controling the fuel into the carb, which indicates the carb needs stripping and cleaning.
the snooper
getting older by the day
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I would think something to match the exhausts current diameter would be best and I would exit the exhaust through the floor and point it outwards like a side exit exhaust
the snooper
getting older by the day
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take the plug out if its black and sutty then the above applies
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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I wouldn't worry too much, unless you're in a quarry or near a beach in a gale the air in Britain tends not to be full of abrasve particles; if it was, breathing would soon go out of fashion
normspanners
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I agree that can give you an idea but only if it had run for any length of time,unfortunately it has only been fired up for short bursts probably on choke so the plug will tend to be black anyway even if the engine/carb was ok, and is not a definitive test. So by running it on the 'fuel tap' for a length of time can actual get them to run cleanly for a time which then can get rid of any waxy fuel from the carb or the vibration can free off sticky float valves etc.
Only last week I had one of those engines that would not start on cement mixer pulled and pulled a pain coz it was wind on cord not a recoil it turned out the governor was stuck and the prats had been controlling the revs with the choke for months.
Even with a new plug ----in the end, I had to start it with a cordless drill to force it over and over got it to run, found the stuck governor air flap, sorted that, ran it off load for an hour filled it with sand for another hour and it was fine. It cleaned its self.
!/2 for ex, I would say is too small, use 22mm copper pipe cheap and wont rust fitting are easy +1 for running it down through floor not up.
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The Buddah
I'm using phone for internet.
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Hello,
Hope you don't mind me popping in on this thread.
I have just ordered one of those compressors 50ltr size and its being delivered on Monday.
The thing is it comes with no hoses or accessories.
Would you be able to tell me what it is that i need to get up and running as in the size of hoses and fittings.
I intend to spray me axles and underseal the car for starters and it would be cool if i could run a small sandblaster or something similar.
There maybe some wheels added so that i can move the compressor around.
I have subscribed to your thread............hoping to learn about the compressor.
