- Thread starter Richiew
- Start date
Well there has been success in parts......
The resulting welds don't look much better at all, however the new welding rods are a revelation. Its sooo much easier to maintain the arc. In fact its a doddle compared to the old ones. I can also pull the weld puddle along the workpiece without trying and even veer off at angles and bends at will. Theres hardly any smoke and I dont smell like a bonfire as much.
I got a bit cocky you see and started chasing power settings, travel speeds and rod angles, trying to get the bead to look more like work that's been posted by others on this thread. I tried going for an elusive peeler and varied the amps from so low I couldn't get a strike, up to blowing holes rather quickly.
I suspect I should have been concentrating on arc length like I have been told on here already
The slag looks a lot smoother compared with old but I'm still creating a crater at the end of the bead. The slag also comes off a hell of a lot easier too, despite the photo.(I had stopped wire brushing by then.)
All in all, theres been a huge improvement in the garage this evening, even if it didn't really involve me. I am now the weakest link in the chain rather the the electrodes.
I have plently of practicing ahead but its going to be a pleasure rather than a struggle from now on.
Snowcat,
The label on the navy blue box of rods says "Bohler Fox Sum". No mention of "Phoenix".
They are a million times better than those Aldi rods! Aldi has a thirty day returns policy so I will be taking three boxes back on a quiet evening this week for a refund.
The resulting welds don't look much better at all, however the new welding rods are a revelation. Its sooo much easier to maintain the arc. In fact its a doddle compared to the old ones. I can also pull the weld puddle along the workpiece without trying and even veer off at angles and bends at will. Theres hardly any smoke and I dont smell like a bonfire as much.
I got a bit cocky you see and started chasing power settings, travel speeds and rod angles, trying to get the bead to look more like work that's been posted by others on this thread. I tried going for an elusive peeler and varied the amps from so low I couldn't get a strike, up to blowing holes rather quickly.
I suspect I should have been concentrating on arc length like I have been told on here already
The slag looks a lot smoother compared with old but I'm still creating a crater at the end of the bead. The slag also comes off a hell of a lot easier too, despite the photo.(I had stopped wire brushing by then.)
All in all, theres been a huge improvement in the garage this evening, even if it didn't really involve me. I am now the weakest link in the chain rather the the electrodes.
I have plently of practicing ahead but its going to be a pleasure rather than a struggle from now on.
Snowcat,
The label on the navy blue box of rods says "Bohler Fox Sum". No mention of "Phoenix".
They are a million times better than those Aldi rods! Aldi has a thirty day returns policy so I will be taking three boxes back on a quiet evening this week for a refund.
Paul.
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Richiew
Your getting quite a lot of spatter there, I suspect that the amps are a bit high, or your arc gap is too big, to a certain extent you can control the arc temperature by changing the arc length as you weld, a tight arc will lower it and a long arc increases it.
When you have your arc established you should be able to gently touch the electrode down on the plate, and drag it along, if you get it right you'll see that the end of the electrode has burnt back inside the flux coating giving a cupping effect, the depth of the cup will give you enough arc length, try not to weave, and scribe a line on the plate so that you have a path to follow. use these angles as a starting point.
Your getting quite a lot of spatter there, I suspect that the amps are a bit high, or your arc gap is too big, to a certain extent you can control the arc temperature by changing the arc length as you weld, a tight arc will lower it and a long arc increases it.
When you have your arc established you should be able to gently touch the electrode down on the plate, and drag it along, if you get it right you'll see that the end of the electrode has burnt back inside the flux coating giving a cupping effect, the depth of the cup will give you enough arc length, try not to weave, and scribe a line on the plate so that you have a path to follow. use these angles as a starting point.
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The bohler, Phoenix are an equivalent to Fincord Ms, but that means little I guess to anyone except a few guys on here, the ones you have are slightly differently coated thats all, still an excellent rod and a mark from the aldi ones which I bet were chinese.... to control crater fill, you can push your leed angle over to shorten the arc as your coming to the end of a run.......
Keep practicing and posting the pictures
Keep practicing and posting the pictures
I managed another go today with the welder. I was also practicing midweek but there was no improvement to report then.
I tried turning the amps down a bit as it had been mentioned that things were a bit splattery and this could have been down to too much power. The five beads on the right seem to look a little bit better to me. I didn't get any peelers but the slag came away easier and in larger lumps which must mean I am going in the right direction.
I also managed to repair a garden ornament today with the arc welder and I was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked considering the state of the material I was repairing. The leg on the bird was a bit wobbly. It's only a glorified tack weld of course but it was nice to say I have actually used the welder for something around the house even if the welder hasn't exactly paid for itself yet. Still no danger of me welding anything safety critical yet though.
I tried turning the amps down a bit as it had been mentioned that things were a bit splattery and this could have been down to too much power. The five beads on the right seem to look a little bit better to me. I didn't get any peelers but the slag came away easier and in larger lumps which must mean I am going in the right direction.
I also managed to repair a garden ornament today with the arc welder and I was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked considering the state of the material I was repairing. The leg on the bird was a bit wobbly. It's only a glorified tack weld of course but it was nice to say I have actually used the welder for something around the house even if the welder hasn't exactly paid for itself yet. Still no danger of me welding anything safety critical yet though.
David Holt
New Member
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- 1
What size generator?
I have also bought one of these arc welders, and now appreciate the problem about the crap rods supplied from Aldi, will buy some branded ones.
Question?
What size generator would I need to power this welder (I had a professional mains socket fitted at home to power it, but want to use it "off site")?
Thanks
dave
I have also bought one of these arc welders, and now appreciate the problem about the crap rods supplied from Aldi, will buy some branded ones.
Question?
What size generator would I need to power this welder (I had a professional mains socket fitted at home to power it, but want to use it "off site")?
Thanks
dave
rich r
Member
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- 645
The newer (Walter Werkzeuge) 160A one requires a supply capable of 22A for brief periods, around 16A continuous when on maximum weld current. Generators don't like sudden big changes in load, so you have to make sure that you choose one that won't be struggling to provide that big surge when you strike an arc. If the generator can't keep up, then the voltage drops leading to poor welds, or even damage to the welder (though less likely to hurt a buzzbox than an inverter)
If you're only using 2.5mm rods, you'd probably get away with a 5kVA generator. But if you want to use 3.2mm or 4mm, then you're going to need something nearer 7.5kVA or more.
If you're only using 2.5mm rods, you'd probably get away with a 5kVA generator. But if you want to use 3.2mm or 4mm, then you're going to need something nearer 7.5kVA or more.
