- Thread starter GregEng
- Start date
Forgot about a bit of plate ali I had in my tool box, so decided to do some more beads. Switch the wire from 4043 to 5356. Found the 5356 to weld alot better, even the arc was different. I was able to spray transfer with 5356, im not sure if it was with the 4043 as every was lighting quick with that wire making it difficult to really get a feel of whats right. It clogs in the tip less aswell.
Few more pictures
Few more pictures
julieanncharters
Member
- Messages
- 210
thats ali mig for you hot and fast.
what mig welder are you using.
what mig welder are you using.
Using my sealey electromig 195, with the additional spool gun attachment.
http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuild...8&analysiscode=&requiredresults=16&fulltext=0
http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuild...8&analysiscode=&requiredresults=16&fulltext=0
Tiggy_dorset
It looks just like a bought one!
- Messages
- 1,970
- Location
- Weymouth, Dorset, UK
I just love that one in the specifications:
Case size: Large
What spool gun are you using?
I just love that one in the specifications:
Case size: Large
What spool gun are you using?
The electromig has spool gun specifically for it. It has wire feed controls on the gun, and a 6 meter hose. There is an additonal control cable that plugs into the welder when you use the spool gun. You can only adjust the wire feed at the gun, it overides the control panel knob.
The welder has mig braze settings aswell as aluminium. Seems to have been a pretty decent welder so far, welds mild steel nicely. Have had it for a year with no problems and used four 5kg mild steel rolls. The braze is good, just trying to get to grips with the aluminium.
Tiggy_dorset
It looks just like a bought one!
- Messages
- 1,970
- Location
- Weymouth, Dorset, UK
There are a few good results there, better than my own attempts. Im tempted to get mine out again and play with some more aly.
The speed control is a handy feature. I need to adjust mine on the main panel.
The speed control is a handy feature. I need to adjust mine on the main panel.
Got another couple of box sections off cuts today. With the 5356 wire the weld is alot better and I think I am starting to get the hang of the fillet joints.
The butt joint is a little messier at the moment, also I have not tried hot start and crater fill plates either end of the metal being welded. I have photoes of the weld before and after welding, so can see the smoke and HAZ.
Opinions?
The butt joint is a little messier at the moment, also I have not tried hot start and crater fill plates either end of the metal being welded. I have photoes of the weld before and after welding, so can see the smoke and HAZ.
Opinions?
zardoz
Old school Socialist
- Messages
- 2,217
- Location
- Chetser, UK
looking good. Interesting, Ill have to look at getting something similar for my old Portamig 185. I do remember someone on here actually building their own spool gun, which was quite successful if i remember rightly. It was a while back though ?
julieanncharters
Member
- Messages
- 210
some decent looking welds there mate.
when you get a black weld ie loads of "smut" its usually a torch angle issue.
seem to recall having torch raked to far back can draw air in from the rear.
to much gas flow can cause it as well.
you always get some smut with 5 series filler wire sumit to do with vapourized magnesium while welding.
your fillet welds with good fusion and the cleaning band on both sides are on the money.
as you weld you should see the cleaning band ahead of the puddle as you go.
if you angle the torch side to side you will see the affect it has on the cleaning band and resulting lack of fusion when the angle is wrong usually with black smut on the poor coverage side.
see your having a lot of cold start lumps.
one technique is to quickly drag torch about 30mm from start of run then weld back over which puts a bit of preheat in and prevents the coldstart lump forming.
i use this on 50mm Ali stitch welds
with your inverter set prob has a setting to prevent it anyway.
with my old synergic transformer mig its not an option.
run on run off plates are a must if your doing butt welds in one go .
i always pre heat thicker stuff with a propane rose to about 200c.
use a cheap lazer temp gun and a piece of copper bar sat on top to give a reading.
Lazer temp gun don't read right on shiney stuff like Ali.
have fun
when you get a black weld ie loads of "smut" its usually a torch angle issue.
seem to recall having torch raked to far back can draw air in from the rear.
to much gas flow can cause it as well.
you always get some smut with 5 series filler wire sumit to do with vapourized magnesium while welding.
your fillet welds with good fusion and the cleaning band on both sides are on the money.
as you weld you should see the cleaning band ahead of the puddle as you go.
if you angle the torch side to side you will see the affect it has on the cleaning band and resulting lack of fusion when the angle is wrong usually with black smut on the poor coverage side.
see your having a lot of cold start lumps.
one technique is to quickly drag torch about 30mm from start of run then weld back over which puts a bit of preheat in and prevents the coldstart lump forming.
i use this on 50mm Ali stitch welds
with your inverter set prob has a setting to prevent it anyway.
with my old synergic transformer mig its not an option.
run on run off plates are a must if your doing butt welds in one go .
i always pre heat thicker stuff with a propane rose to about 200c.
use a cheap lazer temp gun and a piece of copper bar sat on top to give a reading.
Lazer temp gun don't read right on shiney stuff like Ali.
have fun
aametalmaster
Member
- Messages
- 763
- Location
- Salem Ohio USA
Nice job. Do you have a spool gun pic? The link didn't show one and i love spool guns. Thanks...Bob
I've started MIG welding alitoo, using a 130a Clarke. I used the guide on here to set up the welder, and the best change was a 1mm tip for 0.8mm wire. Also having a very light tension on the wire and a straight torch length helps.
The wire feed needs to be about 1.75 times the the same setting for mild steel. The torch speed is also about double that of mild steel. I take a nice wide weave as the start of the weld to build heat then focus the arc in a smaller pattern.
The wire feed needs to be about 1.75 times the the same setting for mild steel. The torch speed is also about double that of mild steel. I take a nice wide weave as the start of the weld to build heat then focus the arc in a smaller pattern.
zardoz
Old school Socialist
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- 2,217
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- Chetser, UK
Rrunnach
Member
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- 1,127
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- Scotland
Wow - the last welds look a lot better than the welds on our Smart's door frames
I think I have to get me one of those spool guns.
A spool and gun is not a cure for poor welding technique. S&G, if not setup correctly, will still burn back/bird nest, produce bird poo welds.
I use S&G, also standard euro whip, I produce same quality with both, both also burn back/bird nest, less wire waste, plus quicker fix with S&G.
Cheers.....
Rrunnach
Member
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- 1,127
- Location
- Scotland
That'll be trigger connection mate, fit front control panel of plant. One glove does not fit all in the S&G plant world.
Rrunnach
Member
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- 1,127
- Location
- Scotland
I'm not familiar with this brand name, I can only suggest you contact the maker............
- Messages
- 22,523
- Location
- Birmingham
Could be the power supply for the spool gun motor?
