Aluminium Tig Welding - 1st steps

[Aesgarth]

That's definitely ok.

Will shorten my runs considerably and try to follow the rest of your advice. I'll update with my progress, if I make any, in a few days.

All the advice is appreciated, thank you.

I'll add that the additional long runs were made after posting but before coming back to this thread to see the replies.. and I would have gone for shorter if I'd read them.

Thank you again.

 

[Richard.]

You should be proud of what you’ve achieved so far.
There is always room for perfection but one thing they are not and that is they are not bad at all. I will be watching your thread with interest and look forward to see your results. Especially the joints

 

[Brad93]

What thickness is the material?
Penetration is normal and can be balanced by travel speed

 

[Aesgarth]

What thickness is the material?
Penetration is normal and can be balanced by travel speed

I'm not sure exactly, I'll measure it tonight, but between 1 and 2mm if I had to guess.

 

[Aesgarth]

What thickness is the material?
Penetration is normal and can be balanced by travel speed

1.5mm

I've done an hour and a half tonight and feel like I'm going backwards. No photos except of my settings, because it's all rubbish....

Have been doing shorter beads - 1 to 3 inches. Upped the power a bit and trying to move faster but it just isn't working for me. I will continue trying though.

 

[Hood]

125Amps for 1.5mm Alu seems way too high for me, I think I would probably be about that for 4mm.

 

[Aesgarth]

125Amps for 1.5mm Alu seems way too high for me, I think I would probably be about that for 4mm.

It's on a pedal, so I'm backing off a bit after the puddle forms, but I can't seem to get the balance between power in and travel speed. Unfortunately I can't see the panel when I'm welding so I have no idea what current I'm actually using.

 

[Paul.]

Depending on the joint and your welding style, I would be using around 60 amps for 1.5, that's basic AC, no pulse or frequency adjustment, maybe a little more for a fillet and a touch less for an outside corner.

 

[Hood]

It's on a pedal, so I'm backing off a bit after the puddle forms, but I can't seem to get the balance between power in and travel speed. Unfortunately I can't see the panel when I'm welding so I have no idea what current I'm actually using.

Ah ok, don't use a pedal myself.

 

[Aesgarth]

Ok... I'd given up for the night but I'm going out for one more go with the power turned down a bit.

Thanks.

 

[addjunkie]

Set your amps to max for the thickness, so roughlty 60 amps, get started then back off if you need to or the pool gets too big.

Tig welding is some times 3 steps forward 3 back, not always forward.

 

[Aesgarth]

Set your amps to max for the thickness, so roughlty 60 amps, get started then back off if you need to or the pool gets too big.

Tig welding is some times 3 steps forward 3 back, not always forward.

I found 60 way to low - tiny puddle and painfully slow travel speed.. 85 seems more comfortable although still slow on the travel speed to avoid overtaking the puddle. I'll get there eventually with a bit of trial and error - and pointers from here. Hoping to get a couple of hours in on Saturday.

 

[Aesgarth]

Depending on the joint and your welding style, I would be using around 60 amps for 1.5, that's basic AC, no pulse or frequency adjustment, maybe a little more for a fillet and a touch less for an outside corner.

I have the frequency set to roughly where the rtech videos suggest, pulse is off - I don't really understand it yet and don't need the added complication.

 

[backpurge]

I found 60 way to low - tiny puddle and painfully slow travel speed.. 85 seems more comfortable although still slow on the travel speed to avoid overtaking the puddle. I'll get there eventually with a bit of trial and error - and pointers from here. Hoping to get a couple of hours in on Saturday.

You're better off perfecting your technique travelling slowly then gradually increase amps/travel speed as you start to get the hang of things

 

[Brad93]

125Amps for 1.5mm Alu seems way too high for me, I think I would probably be about that for 4mm.

You wouldn’t melt 4mm with 125A.
125 is barely enough for 3mm.
For 1.5mm I would be at 60-85A.

To OP: turn your AC Frequency down a bit to about 80-120Hz. Where you have it now will be narrowing the arc a bit too much.

Your balance looks about where I used to put mine on my Rtech.

 

[Brad93]

Can you post a picture of your tungsten?

Don’t worry about the pulse. Absolutely pointless on AC.

Like having balance and frequency adjustment. They sent man to the moon and built countless planes using transformer dialarcs and synchrowaves with no balance or frequency adjustment.

 

[Richard.]

Set pedal to max amps required and floor it. 60-70 on my machine but those older rtechs are known for been a touch lighter on current for what they deliver so 85 might be right on that.
Personally I’d suggest put the pedal away and just work with a switch for a bit to understand current a bit more.

 

[Brad93]

Set pedal to max amps required and floor it. 60-70 on my machine but those older rtechs are known for been a touch lighter on current for what they deliver so 85 might be right on that.
Personally I’d suggest put the pedal away and just work with a switch for a bit to understand current a bit more.

And I thought I was the only one awake!

Mine definitely welded a bit cold/soft

 

[Richard.]

And I thought I was the only one awake!

Mine definitely welded a bit cold/soft

Yeah I’ve used a few. They ain’t bad but 10% behind on current

 

[Aesgarth]

Can you post a picture of your tungsten?

Don’t worry about the pulse. Absolutely pointless on AC.

Like having balance and frequency adjustment. They sent man to the moon and built countless planes using transformer dialarcs and synchrowaves with no balance or frequency adjustment.

I can't get a picture of the tungsten today as I won't be near the workshop, bit I'll get one tomorrow. It's a 3.2 - which I realise is a bit big, ground to quite a fine point (by that I mean a relatively long taper rather than not all that sharp), and has very little balling after use.

Set pedal to max amps required and floor it. 60-70 on my machine but those older rtechs are known for been a touch lighter on current for what they deliver so 85 might be right on that.
Personally I’d suggest put the pedal away and just work with a switch for a bit to understand current a bit more.

Ok. I'll do that.