am I there yet :-)

[davidjohnperry]

This is attempt 5 I think what u guys think its
2.5 nexus electrodes
80 amps
Stringer root at 75 ish
Weave 80 amps

 

[davidjohnperry]

This is vertical up its just my phone or me that cant take photos

 

[Tigman]

did you put a root pass in first ? do that and then weave one over the top ! you may find it easier to do

 

[Tigman]

your weave looks ok in parts , little gap third of the way along ! not bad keep practicing you,ll get it in the end , get a good root in there first , chip it and brush and straight in with the cover pass dont let it cool down too much .

 

[davidjohnperry]

I did put a root in and welded it over with a weave over im still trying hard to perfect my welding as ive been constantly told im no welder and ill never become a good one im just out to prove to me I can weld ok.

 

[davidjohnperry]

And ill hopefully get there soon

 

[Tigman]

the more you do the better you become its like most things , dont worry about what others say just practise you will get there !

 

[Rrunnach]

Keep the arc tight on both root and cap. For stop/starts on both root/cap, grind back prior to re-commencing weld, this helps to eliminate slag traps.

I'd also try a better brand of rod, my own personal experience of nexus rods were not good, I binned them!

 

[wheresmejumper]

If you scribe or grind 2 lines down the plate beforehand, itll give you a border to work to with your weave.
its like colouring in compared to a freehand sketch

 

[Rrunnach]

Toe's of root are an indicator of how wide to weave, differentiating slag from molten weld pool is the difficult part for new learners!

And, if an indicator is required, a line each side with French chalk suffice.

 

[wheresmejumper]

I have trouble seeing french chalk, spend more time looking for it than looking at the pool.
I think you can forget about distinguishing the pool or slag on vert up, and rely on timing and watching for build up on toes for regulating speed

 

[davidjohnperry]

this sounds daft but i count 1,2 whip over 1,2 whip over slightly higher hold 1,2 then whip over ect but the french chalk/grind the lines in sounds like a absolute brilliant ideal. cheers guys for the brilliant advice as always gunna try and weld over the easter break as im back pipefitting again for a bit

 

[Welderpaul]

Grinding lines along the sides of a weld is bad news - It creates a bad stress raiser and increases the liklihood of a fracture.

 

[Rrunnach]

I think you can forget about distinguishing the pool or slag on vert up, and rely on timing and watching for build up on toes for regulating speed

Why?

 

[wheresmejumper]

Grinding lines along the sides of a weld is bad news - It creates a bad stress raiser and increases the liklihood of a fracture.

Just practicing I meant

 

[wheresmejumper]

Why?

It works for me, thats why I stated-I think....
Gravity is pulling everything down, and keeping half the rod in the leading edge of the molten mess that is the 6013 is an easy way to keep progressing

 

[Rrunnach]

Up, down, left and, right. One still requires to distinguish slag from molten deposit underneath slag, it's a fundamental!

 

[davidjohnperry]

(wheresmejumper) i understood what u ment mate your tip was for practice no structural or stress related welding projects.

 

[Rrunnach]

Just practicing I meant

Not how I read it and, I can assure you, easier to follow and burn away a chalk line (when practicing) than a tram line ground into metal being welded!

 

[wheresmejumper]

Not how I read it and, I can assure you, easier to follow and burn away a chalk line (when practicing) than a tram line ground into metal being welded!

I dont know what chalk youre using, but I want some.
whatever I get is useless on clean steel.on the rust above I guess itd be better.