trying to sort a compressor out on the cheap, i bought (for not a lot) today a clark 200L compressor that he thinks the motor has gone, so i am going to put my motor on that compressor, then hopefully ill have a semi decent 200L compressor. Failing that ill either try to mess around some more or chuck the towel in and buy a new one
- Thread starter jasongtr
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the snooper
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here we go
, he thinks the motor has gone, does it buzz when you try to start it ? if so it needs a new capacitor
the snooper
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what does the motor do if anything ?
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women, they always spoil the fun 
so, i swapped my 3hp motor onto the clarke 200L tank and pump and it started up and filled seemingly ok, slightly pee'd off the guy i bought the compressor off for £40 as he thought it was kaput, i cannot try the 4hp motor that was on the clarke yet as it won't be happy on a 13amp plug.
the snooper
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it will be fine if you test it with no load
saga continues, after a successful fill up yesterday and came in this morning to still see 80psi on the gauge, it won't refill - guess what - fuse blown again, this is on the 3hp motor that was swapped over onto the clarke (previously a 4hp motor compressor) the actual pump is bigger so maybe pulls more on start up, anyway i have bought a 16amp plug and socket today so will get that wired up and go from there, at least it will be a damn bit easier to flick the switch over on the breaker on the consumer unit than keep changing bloody fuses
normspanners
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what size mcb have you on the circuit that you are fitting the 16A plug ? because you will be overloading the motor if the pulleys where the same size the load will be exactly the same, therefore the motor will still try and pull the same as the 4hp which will be about 17A but the 3hp motor is only designed to cope with 12/13 A.
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that's why it had a 4hp motor, the pump was down a quarter of the power needed
normspanners
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For that 3hp motor to work you should have reduced the 4hp MOTOR pulley size by 1/4 of its dia
ie if it was 200mm dia should have used 150mm then the pump would be running slower.
Again it might have started OK from empty because there is comparatively not a lot of load, but if left to run overnight, we are back again to cold starts in the sub 5* night air, and this time against pressure------ pop goes the fuse.
ie if it was 200mm dia should have used 150mm then the pump would be running slower.
Again it might have started OK from empty because there is comparatively not a lot of load, but if left to run overnight, we are back again to cold starts in the sub 5* night air, and this time against pressure------ pop goes the fuse.
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might be getting somewhere here now,
wired up a 16 amp plug and socket and turn it on, tripped the breaker, so to find out if its the pump/motor combo being different or to isolate the fault at the motor i took the belt off so it could freely spin up, same result, it turns the pulley by a tiny amount and trips it again almost instantly, so i have a fault with the wiring or motor somewhere, just need to get some advice as to what to check - most common faults i guess.
It turns out that the motor (3hp one off my old compressor) was the original one so is getting on a touch.
wired up a 16 amp plug and socket and turn it on, tripped the breaker, so to find out if its the pump/motor combo being different or to isolate the fault at the motor i took the belt off so it could freely spin up, same result, it turns the pulley by a tiny amount and trips it again almost instantly, so i have a fault with the wiring or motor somewhere, just need to get some advice as to what to check - most common faults i guess.
It turns out that the motor (3hp one off my old compressor) was the original one so is getting on a touch.
wire staright into the motor. change the capacitors or check them. if the caps are good wire staright into the motor it still trips. odds are youve overheated the motor and fubared the windings.
can't be anything else really, your std issue induction motor is a big lump of steel spinning on two bearings. with a few coils of copper wire next to it, there will be one capacitor connected to onw of the coils, an if it has two there will be a contactor of some description that conencts it.
thats the brilliant thing about induction motors, if it don't go change the cap. if it still don't go it's scrap
can't be anything else really, your std issue induction motor is a big lump of steel spinning on two bearings. with a few coils of copper wire next to it, there will be one capacitor connected to onw of the coils, an if it has two there will be a contactor of some description that conencts it.
thats the brilliant thing about induction motors, if it don't go change the cap. if it still don't go it's scrap
normspanners
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?? dont understand sorry
I agree with dannyp
As I have already said regards this motor and checking the caps they get can get tired they do NOT allways either work or don't,
they can loose their rated capacity slowly but by overloading the 3hp motor and expecting it to do the work of a4hp it has now possibly irrepairably damaged the motor.
We have tried to explain this to you over several posts.
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the 3hp motor has been used to fill the 4hp compressor once.... and as the original compressor with the same motor on it was blowing fuses this stands to reason that the problem with the motor/caps was present on the old compressor, so i cannot see how filling the 4hp one once would of done so much damage
