(Another) Workbench - Opinions Please

[Where'sMyBrew?]

Hi

Newbie to the forum and am about to commence my first project – the highly predictable but much-needed workbench.

I’ve trawled through the invaluable history on similar projects from this forum, for which I’m indebted. But before I start spending my hard-earned on materials, I thought I’d reach out for your thoughts opinions & guidance.

Here goes:-

- Plenty of floor space, bench will be wall-standing along its back
- Surface of 1500 x 1000 will serve me well pretty much indefinitely.
- Steel plate top, notionally 10mm, TBD re., cost, delivery logistics, etc.
- Frame 50 x 50 x 3 SHS all round.
- Frame dimensions 1400 x 900 x 900, giving 100mm overhang at front and 50mm on both sides. Work height 900mm + thickness of top.

I used Google SketchUp for the diagram – highly recommended for non-professionals. It’s cheap (i.e., free!), simple to use and just the job to help visualise a project.

I plan to follow the build techniques outlined in this thread (thanks to Archie):

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=9009

Essentially, to construct the top using uncut lengths to form a level work surface, add the legs and bottom bracing then finally attach the top.

Subject to cash, time, sanity, etc., in the interests of future proofing I might go the whole hog and fit floor levelling feet and castors along the lines of those shown below and described in http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=37165

I’ve passed my City & Guilds in MIG, own a Portamig 211, and have (I like to think) a good level of common sense. But other than I'm pretty much a rookie so would really appreciate any advice, suggestions, etc.

Thanks in advance,
Gareth

 

[Hitch]

Couple of simple things i would change....

The top, although you plan on using it against a wall, i'd include the 50mm overhang on the back too, incase you want to pull it out and clamp on all edges. Although you could clamp the box aswell if you have big enough clamps.

The leg ties, it looks a bit low to the floor, perhaps move it up slightly so you could store trays with offcuts in underneath it? The front bottom brace, i wouldnt' have it on the front, id move it in a fair bit. Or you may be hitting your feet/shins on it when your at the front of the bench. Move it in say 250-300mm...?#
Also if you progress onto Tig, you might want to put a chair at the bench, the bar would make it awkward right at the front.

 

[James325]

I've just chopped the front bar out of my bench. Ok for standing but in the way when sitting and trying to use a foot pedal.

 

[Welderpaul]

I wouldnt go much thinner than 10mm for the top tbh. Keeps things nice and flat, avoids flex when your bashing something. One of ours is 20mm; the new one is 30mm
Is it worth making it slightly larger so you can just lay a 2m x 1m plate on the top without having to worry about cutting 1/2m off the end?
Two of us can manage to carry a 2m x 1m x 10mm plate around the place, so wouldnt have though you would have too much bother handling the piece you would need.

 

[Where'sMyBrew?]

thanks for the advice fellas.

I'll raise both braces by 100mm and move the front one in by 250mm, and extend length to 2000mm so the plate won't need to be cut. Will leave the rear without an overhang so that I can bolt it to the wall if ever needed.

Can anyone give me a rough idea how much a 2000 X 1000 X 10 plate ought to cost ?

Anyone recommend a stockholder in the York / Wetherby/ Leeds area ?

cheers,
Gareth

 

[Welderpaul]

Try Steel Supplies in Doncaster, speak to Debbie. They seem to be able to beat everyone for price.
I'll have a look how much we pay for the plate, about 85 quid from memory.

 

[scott0031]

Spot on with Hitches advice, I would still raise that brace a bit higher 300 mm min, 150 mm or 6" is not much room to store stuff under, bet ya bottom dollar the first box of junk you try to stuff under it and it wont fit.............. and you will think............ wish i had made that higher. Not only that you will have a lot of room on top of those braces which is not usable. So i would space it out a bit better to utilize space more efficiently.


Also if you want to sit at the bench it will still be low and interfere with your feet when you want to wiggle about. So the further you raise it and further you make it in from the front the more room you will get for your legs/feet. The best way to determine the space you need is to find suitable style of chair you would have at the bench sit on it, get a tape measure and physically measure the space you would want for your legs, put some clearance on those sizes and away you go.


Kind regards,



Scott

 

[Hitch]

Looks better, are you putting a vice on it? If you are, a good idea to check mounting hole positions so they dont end up right on the wall of a bit of box.....

 

[Cris B]

If it was me I'd make the table symmetrical in terms of the overhang on the to as previously suggested above and also bring the back brace in by 250mm as well to match the front. That way should your space/setup change in future you will have a more flexible table.

If you want some inspiration then check this out:

It's an alignment table made by some of my frame building pals of mine over in Boston, MA. Read more about it here. The blog is worth a read as they have been making some other cool stuff for their new company Firefly Bicycles. Tyler, Jamie and Kevin used to be part of Independent Fabrication a big name in the custom bicycles world.

 

[breezer]

Oh God, I used to love Independent Fabrications stuff.

Used to while away many a quiet hour in the bike shop perusing their catalogues.

 

[Where'sMyBrew?]

I've moved the lower bracing up to 400mm from floor. Internal brace moved inwards a further 75 to 375.

I've measured my vice and the mounting holes will align within the box sections, i.e., avoiding the walls.

I'm going to leave the rear w/o overhang so that the frame is flush with wall - it will be a very rare occasion for me to pull the bench from the wall and work from front & rear, and if I do, the lack of an overhang won't present an problem.

Updated spec is now:

Going to draw up my materials list next.

Cris B - that is one impressive surface you've got there !

thanks fellas.

 

[Where'sMyBrew?]

steel arrived this morning ! Went for 10mm plate, just as well, anything heavier and me and Mr Delivery Man wouldn't have been able to move it...

General idea is to build the frame top > add the legs> weld onto plate and then turn over. Eezy peasy....

Watch this space....

 

[Sean]

Id be tempted to put an open shelf under the bench then you can chuck clamps and grinders etc underneath, while you do what you do on the top without getting caught up in flexes and the like.

 

[NeilH]

hellish bit of plate that.

 

[Hitch]

Whats the plate like for flatness? Use it as a temporary bench sat on the floor to build the top section of framework. Then put the legs onto that. Turn the frame over, then lift the plate on top. You could have a practise at overhead fillet welding then too.

When you weld the plate to the frame, dont put a lot of weld on it, a few light stitches round the edge and middle will be adequate, too much and you may end up with a few ripples in the plate. Other thing to consider, dont put the stitches where you couldnt get to them with a grinder....in case one day you might want to separate the two is

 

[Where'sMyBrew?]

thanks for the tips fellas, will take them on board.

 

[Where'sMyBrew?]

All done, and the jobs’ a good 'un !

Bearing in mind I'm a novice to all this, I'm really chuffed with the result, I’ve now got a really sturdy, well-sized and fully portable steel workbench. If the truth be told, I’m actually quite proud of myself for my first project

Here's a brief overview of how I did it, which I hope might be of use to others undertaking a similar project. There are lots of photos, so they may take a while to download…

1. Bevelled the ends of all the box sections to help with penetration:

2. Tacked up the outer edge of the frame top. Used 1mm sheet offcuts as shims to get everything horizontal, and box offcut to keep square. The 'cabinet makers' clamps worked ok, although I did use G-clamps as first preference (but not in this pic):

3. Put the three cross-members in, religiously checking & re-checking that everything was still square:

I’ve read that these magnetic clamps can be detrimental to a good weld, but for keeping square whilst tacking up I found them invaluable.

4. Then filled in the centre cross-rail sections:

Frame top, all square and level:

5. Made four ends for the legs using 50x50 5mm flat with 24mm hole to take some M24 allthread which would form the ‘feet’. I tacked on some old tube to act as a guide to keep the thread centred in the leg, then welded the end to the box that would become a leg. More on the feet later….:

6. Braced two pairs of two legs across the width:

7. …and then tacked them to the frame top (didn’t take a pic).

8. Added the length-wise bracing at the back and centre:

9. And then further bracing section between the legs. These have castors bolted on, and are positioned so that the castors protrude 1mm past the feet when the feet are fully retracted. Like this, the bench can be rolled around.

When the bench is static, the feet are extended out by 1mm (or however much is needed to level the bench on an uneven floor), which takes the castors of the floor.

Note that the right hand castor in this pic is moved inwards along the brace to allow it to swivel to a trailing position when the bench is pulled. This was a ‘correction’ that I'd omitted from original design !

10. The feet comprise a piece of 50 x 50 flat welded to the end of the allthread, on which is an M24 nut and washer. This is inserted into the leg of the bench (see 5 above) and allows the height to be adjusted simply by turning the nut. The foot itself remains stationary – essential for my workshop floor which is about as even as the ocean floor:

And that completed the tacking of the frame, so I welded her up. Took lots of time - I guess time is the one advantage a hobbyist has over a professional! And moved around the frame so not to overheat any one section.

Some of my welds weren’t too pretty, but I got better with each one and am confident they are strong – read on for the proof. Examples of my welds, used a Portamig 211:

Now the frame was complete, there was the little matter of attaching it to the 10mm plate. As the plate had already been delivered I couldn’t simply have it dropped from the lorry onto the frame, and working alone, I couldn’t lift the plate…

So I turned the frame upside down and welding it to the plate. I finally opted for 8cm overhang at the front and 2cm at the back.

I positioned the frame then started attaching it to the plate, working from the centre outwards with using 1” welds in locations I can reach if I ever want to separate the two (thanks Hitch for this tip).

Another invaluable technique learnt from this forum was this homemade clamp, temporarily tacked to the plate. You can't see it in this pic, but below the 2mm sheet is another nut which when tightened upwards pushes the bolt down to force the frame and plate together before welding them:

The plate was not that flat at the corners, so much clamping was necessary, using box offcuts and G-Clamps I straightened out OK.

All welded up OK, job done. I now have steel workbench, but it’s upside down . And way too heavy for one man to turn over.... But wanting to finish the job asap, I persevered alone rather than waiting for help…

Health & Safety look away now.

With much levering, lots of timber and even more swearing I managed to turn her over by myself. And in doing I like to think I stress tested all my welds:

Drilled four 10mm holes and bolted on the vice. Adjusted the feet a little to get everything dead level and voila, a heavy steel workbench that’s gonna last me a lifetime. And I can move it if I ever need to:

I would not have contemplated attempting this project without the advice and experience gained from forum members, so thanks to you all.

Now, I just need a new project…

cheers,
Gareth.

 

[bobh]

looks a smart bench that bud, Thats given me an idea now.

 

[knoba]

Absolutely fantastic build! Well done.

It's always so pleasing to see someone take; time, pride, and care in their work. Write-up, work space, design, features, dressing, marking out, cuts, welds...!

Nice vice.

 

[Delgado]

Nice work, sure you'll have lots of fun bashing things together on it!

Just as a side note (more for anyone else who's building one), if you make some tressels first, when the sheet is delivered you can put it straight onto them and use it as a 'temporary' work bench to build your bench on (saves working on the floor). Only problem with doing it this way is that the work bench never gets built, and the 'temporary' one takes on a more permenant nature Having said that, if space is an issue it can be packed up and stored/moved easily, had 2 50mm sheets in the last place I worked that were set up like this, and just moved around the workshop with the crane when required.