Any Idea What Causes This?

[Muggins the Mug]

Hi folks,

I tried some new Phoenix 6013's 2.5mm last night and noticed some odd lumps, bumps and depressions in the weld beads. At the time, the rods seemed to lay down a nice bead and the slag practically fell off when cool. I was running the welder between 70-80 Amps from memory, trying to perfect my arc gap length and speed.

When the slag was removed, I noticed some lumps in the centre of one bead and some depressions in the centre of the other bead. I didn't notice any gas bubbles in the bead, but I did with cheaper rods. Any ideas what could be causing this?

Photo one shows the depression in the centre of one bead and photo two shows the depression in the top bead, with lumps in the centre of the lower bead. I did notice it a few days ago with my last couple of Phoenix 6013's that I was given.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[JayRS4]

I`m far from the expert on arc, it it looks a bit like slag inclusion, or possible rust from the base metal. The top bead on the second pic looks more like the weld has fallen through, what`s the other side like?

 

[Muggins the Mug]

Hi there,

The steel was rust free from previously having been cleaned with an angle grinder. The weld looks okay on the other side, but I've been using the same piece of steel from practising on for a while now (grinding flat the old welds). I'm trying to source some fresh steel just now.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[Wozzaaah]

Ian, I'm not sure what's caused that but this is worth bookmarking.

 

[shenion]

Try a steeper angle with the rod (more towards vertical.). The metal is flowing back over the cooling flux.

Could be the rods though. I notice similar with some of my 7014's.

 

[Muggins the Mug]

Hi folks,

I'll try to keep the rod more vertical and I've checked out that Miller link. The nearest one I can find to is it that I'm travelling too slow.

Regards,

Ian.

ps: I hope I'm not overloading you guys with questions.

 

[irondarren]

Damp? is this the box of opened 6013's you bought cheap? if so it is possible they are a little damp. Much depends on how they have been stored, but even with 6013's that have been opened a while i notice the change between and open box and a fresh box. Try roasting them in the oven for an hour at about 100 degreess, dry info should possibly be on the box.
Mug if you are seriously into playing with arc rods, buy yourself a heated quiver, about £50 (when i bought mine a few years ago), ask weldequip for a price. Its a totally different weld using hot rods right out of a quiver.

 

[eddie49]

Is it just starting the weld that is different on a quiver-heated rod - i.e. striking the arc, and until the welding process heats up the rod, or is the whole welding run with that rod different/better/easier ?

 

[zzr1200]

Damp rods are a possiblity, I use a Baby Belling Cooker for drying my rods, purchased off Fleabay for 30.00 quid, brand new un-used.

Which brand of rods are you using???

 

[scarecrow]

im with darren on this one I had few rods doing that to me before Christmas got a fresh box out of the hotpress and no problems after that

 

[irondarren]

Is it just starting the weld that is different on a quiver-heated rod - i.e. striking the arc, and until the welding process heats up the rod, or is the whole welding run with that rod different/better/easier ?

eddie one of the things i find with a quiver, is yes they start easier, if thats at all possible with my welder (my IFL unit would start an arc on a 6inch nail easy). This could be my imagination but i swear you get less splatter on a warm dry rod. The other thing where you might be tempted to run a 2,5mm rod at 90amps, you tend to turn it down a little say 80amps and still produce the same weld using less power. Its just overall a far better weld because the rods are dry.

 

[snowcat]

Id say the clues in the material, to me it looks very much like arc blow, you'd have a good selection of magnetic fields all over that plate by now, time to get yourself some decent coupons to practice on and the others are correct, damp rods, cause all manner of problems, and would most likely make the situation worse...

 

[Muggins the Mug]

I could always try to degauss the work piece. But seriously, I think this work piece is life expired and time for a newer piece of steel.

I think I'll cook the rods for a little while as someone has suggested, don't think Mrs Mug will let me buy a heated quiver at this point in time.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[Bigjoe]

IM far from from a MMA expert (No surprise there then!) but i keep my rods next to hot water tank cupboard,much my good ladies distain!

Joe

 

[zzr1200]

Id say the clues in the material, to me it looks very much like arc blow,

I maybe wrong but I believe "M.t.M" is using an Aldi Powercraft 140A welder, so I suspect it not going to be DC arc blow?

Can you get arc blow from an 140 amp a/c welder???

 

[snowcat]

I maybe wrong but I believe "M.t.M" is using an Aldi Powercraft 140A welder, so I suspect it not going to be DC arc blow?

Can you get arc blow from an 140 amp a/c welder???

ermmm yes and no, as a rule I would say no, but I still think its a likely suspect, due to the fact the plate has been welded and ground a few times, if its susceptible to magnetism, some material is, a throw back to the manufacturing process is one cause then bobs your uncle........

 

[eil]

Any chance of explaining what is DC arc blow. havent heard that one before

 

[shenion]

Arc blow is where the magnetic field caused by the current pushes the arc off to one side; as if it was blown by wind.

 

[eil]

Ahh, used to work at a aluminium smelter, it was fun between the pots your toolbox used to want to go one way while the steel toe caps in your boots were pulling your feet in opposite direction, I remember the welders used to have fun MMA welding there

 

[simon718]

is arc blow only a problem with mma welding? or can it also affect mig/tig??