Hi well yes but extremely short,i.e few milliseconds ;-),just drained the oil which was dark brown and thick with lumps in it,had to make a new gasket for the casting that holds the regulator and cleaned the filter and brass valve inside on the regulator.Just put in fresh oil(the right stuff)and let it run for half an hour but the results the same.Instantly up to 100psi,almost instantly down to virtually nothing.
- Thread starter tysonn
- Start date
One trick we used to do was to run with a mix of oil and a much thinner oil. If the blades are stuck in (due to standing for a while or muck inside) this may free them off. Run with valve closed and watch the temperature.
I may have a manual for these in my workshop I'll have a look when I get back home (probably won't be before sunday though).
I may have a manual for these in my workshop I'll have a look when I get back home (probably won't be before sunday though).
Could anyone possibly suggest my next line of attack?How do I get into the pump/rotor side of it?Do I remove the motor?Is it just a matter of removing the bolts holding the motor to the pump then the motor just pulls out and I can then see the internal gubbins?There doesnt seem to be any obvious screws or bolts on the outside of the pump housing apart from the bits I've already pulled off and serviced?
lundtang
Member
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- Copenhagen
Have you tried to unscrew and remove the long bolt on the top (in the other end of the top than the outlet). As written above this should enable the removal of the gauge plate and inspection of the felt baffles and aluminium spacers of the oil seperator. If they are blocked by goo there will be pressure but no flow?
the service manual is on ebay for 4 pounds
Regards
Andreas
the service manual is on ebay for 4 pounds
Regards
Andreas
julieanncharters
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- 210
lundtang
Member
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- Copenhagen
Well, yes I was sort of re-iterating your words from above.
I contacted the seller of the hydrovane 9 /18 manual -- its now been relisted.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hydrovane-9-1..._Compressors&hash=item588d0a900b#ht_500wt_950
Regards
Andreas
I contacted the seller of the hydrovane 9 /18 manual -- its now been relisted.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hydrovane-9-1..._Compressors&hash=item588d0a900b#ht_500wt_950
Regards
Andreas
Yes it drops to zero on the gauge and the air supply disappears as soon as I press the trigger on the gun.Builds up instantly with my finger off the trigger.BTW let me thank you for giving it a name(Hydrovane 9)until then nobody identified it from the serial number.Have removed the casing with the pressure gauge on.Hoping to get the front cover off this morning.As previously mentioned its very tight with no obvious method of removal unless it just pulls off.
lundtang
Member
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- Copenhagen
thats strange and somewhat conflicting with the idea that the felt baffles should be clogged. However let us know what you find.
I have to say that I have never taken a hydrovane apart and advice given by Gary and julieanncharters are probably better than mine.
regards
andreas
I have to say that I have never taken a hydrovane apart and advice given by Gary and julieanncharters are probably better than mine.
regards
andreas
With the air outlet housing removed I can see 4 vertical slots in the casting that must be to let the air through.These are also gunged up with the same stuff to the extent that it must be restricting and reducing the passage through the top assembly.Theres not a lot of room to get a tool inside to scrape it out and to be honest most of it ends up being pushed deeper inside. BTW removal of the long bolt didnt allow removal of the pressure gauge in fact I can't see how that plate does come off to get at any baffles inside.Doesnt look as if it unscrews like the air filter plate and it cant just be a push fit as air pressure would blow it off.Hopefully the manual may arrive tomorrow.
The end cap the gauge sits in is held in by the long bolt.
There is a o ring sealing the cap. It should come off with leverage. Note which way up the baffle plates go. Also note the order of the seals and felt pads.
When reassembling if the felts are fairly new a press will be required to get the pads back in. If the pads are old they may have shrunk If they are not a tight fit they will need to be replaced.
Is the long bolt hollow or is there a brass plug in the end that goes into the compressor.
There is a o ring sealing the cap. It should come off with leverage. Note which way up the baffle plates go. Also note the order of the seals and felt pads.
When reassembling if the felts are fairly new a press will be required to get the pads back in. If the pads are old they may have shrunk If they are not a tight fit they will need to be replaced.
Is the long bolt hollow or is there a brass plug in the end that goes into the compressor.
Have removed the long bolt.Its basically a long tube threaded on the bottom end.It has the dual purpose of fastening the 2 castings together and passing air from the bottom through 3 holes drilled in the tube.It doesnt connect in any way to the pressure gauge or the casting that the gauge fits in.So the end cap simply prises off?It must be a very tight fit if can contain all that pressure?
The casting that holds the gauge is longer than it looks there is a hole at the top and another at the bottom. The bolt passes through the outer casing top hole, gauge casing top hole, gauge casing bottom hole,outer casing bottom hole and then screws into the main oil chamber casing. This holds the gauge casing in place and is sealed by a o ring.
