Seano
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Are you BOYS talking about cob or straight metallic finish.....? there is a world of difference.
- Thread starter neil_1821
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Are you BOYS talking about cob or straight metallic finish.....? there is a world of difference.
langy
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Are you BOYS talking about cob or straight metallic finish.....? there is a world of difference.
You don't get metallic straight colour mate, all metallics & micas are basecoat & clear
Seano
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Seano
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Back in the bad old days Steve metallic's just came mixed in lacquer...remember, you could flat them back and buff to a really nice smooth finish, but as we know you can't flat bc back unless it has a coat or 20 of lacquer over it, is what I was getting at or were you talking about something totally different ?
Weldinator
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I sanded/keyed it with 1000Grade pro foam wet N dry, i did it dry, although when doing it it felt pretty smooth anyway. I thought it would also give a better key for the lacquer. I've known lacquer to start peeling on old original cars paint before.
langy
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I was referring to 2k
langy
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It don't need a key, full stop. If its peeling its because the lacquer has been applied outside the over coating window.
Although the basecoat appears perfectly dry the lacquer will melt into it up to 24hrs later, some makes have different drying windows.
Weldinator
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What is the usual 1k over coating window time for quality lacquer/thinners ?
Did you mean over coating on top of the new base coat or over coating the next few layers of lacquer ?
Did you mean over coating on top of the new base coat or over coating the next few layers of lacquer ?
langy
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Havn't a clue mate, I would never use 1K as it couldn't hold a candle to 2K
When you overcoat basecoat with clear you lay down a tack coat and then 2 more full coats 10-15 mins apart so no need to key any coats. Some modern cars are only getting one coat of clear these days.
Seano
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the reason for leaving it as you say maybe a couple of days to dry is to allow all of the solvents in the paint to evaporate out completely, touch dry means just that, dry to the touch not thru dry, it also allows any shrinkage of body fillers to take place if it is going to, have you ever seen a nice shiny paint finish with a wrinkle edged patch in it somewhere, that is shrinkage or sinkage as some call it, usually because it has been top coated before the primer has had a chance to fully thru dry, the solvents in the paint get under the edge of any filler and and start to react with it, one of the reasons I always preferred to lead load repairs rather than plastic them, another way is to skrim over the edge or the whole repair with 2pk polyester stopper, then block it out, usually works.
Seano
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langy
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I think your referring to Celly or 1k stuff, 2k primers are way better and dry quicker, everyday paint shops are known to fill in the morning, prime an hour later, flat the primer and paint and the customer takes the car away same day.
langy
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No worries mate, didn't realize you were talking 2k....
Is there any other kind of paint then
norsa
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Are you BOYS talking about cob or straight metallic finish.....? there is a world of difference.
Holy cow Seano, you go back a way mate. Now you said that, i distinctly remember years ago spraying a Talbot Alpine in gold met. I could not get the cob from my pro supplier because it was only available as a solid. It was before 2k was invented and it was celly and it looked s*^te.
Nick
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There seems to be quite a lot of confusion lately when threads/posts are on about 1k then others talk about 2k without mentioning it, and vice versa.
2k maybe the dogs but that doesn't mean 1k is rubbish and not worth using, apart from UV attack on outside panels. My painting is engine bay stuff where its quite dark and away from harsh UV light.
2k maybe the dogs but that doesn't mean 1k is rubbish and not worth using, apart from UV attack on outside panels. My painting is engine bay stuff where its quite dark and away from harsh UV light.
steveo3002
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1k is rubbish though , terrible stuff really it wont last long at all
the people that say its poop are speaking from experiance , makes no odds to us what you use
threads usualy start out ..."whats the best way to..." then end up someone rattle canning something in the street
the people that say its poop are speaking from experiance , makes no odds to us what you use
threads usualy start out ..."whats the best way to..." then end up someone rattle canning something in the street
norsa
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I think what Steveo and Langy and others are trying to say is we dont diss 1k, its just when you have the privelage of using 2k, you realise the limitations of anything else. At the point in which you get to the guide coated 2k primer stage, any associated pickling, lifting, solvent pop, ghosting, shrinking issues that come with air dried paints are a thing of the past and we can confidently lay expensive paint down knowing it will last for a good long time but it cost us quite a bit to get set up to use it properly and safely. Hope that clears it up and does'nt offend.
Nick.
Nick.
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i would agree that 1k is a choice of the past even though its as easy to get hold of as 2k. i would imagine its still widely available for hobbyists and alike although saying that i went for some paint last monday and a guy walked in with a black sweatshirt on, which had an emblem on it, company name and smart repairs he went on to order 6 aerosols of matt black and 6 of laquer he then asked me if i wanted any work.
in my opinion if anyone reading this thread intends to start painting on a regular basis then its worth the outlay for an air fed mask so that you can use 2k if you are making money at it as you will make your money back.
in my opinion if anyone reading this thread intends to start painting on a regular basis then its worth the outlay for an air fed mask so that you can use 2k if you are making money at it as you will make your money back.
steveo3002
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ive tried all the short cuts and bodges i could think of , hence i share my experiance here . every time i picked up 1k clear for a door shut or engine i wished i hadnt
you just get so much more built and gloss with 2k , and it lasts well , 1k will be yellow and crows feet all over it ,and if you spill oil or petrol on it you will mark it or take it off
you just get so much more built and gloss with 2k , and it lasts well , 1k will be yellow and crows feet all over it ,and if you spill oil or petrol on it you will mark it or take it off
langy
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I couldn't agree more Steve
