bearing installer

[taycat]

had to do bearing for mate so used it as an excuse to play on lathe at taper turning.

took while to work angle out, so quick q are most bearing races same angle?
seen set's for sale on e-bay but would rather keep some ali on shelf to make my own as i need them.

 

[Bill Edwards]

I've got a proper set, but no way to measure the angle. Unless you want the diameter at each end of the taper and the length to do some fancy maths I struggled to manage...

 

[Badger1bear]

Old skool here, brass drift and a hammer :-)

 

[awemawson]

But you don't want the tool to bear on the taper anyway, or you'll potentially damage the bearing surface. It needs to only touch on the shoulder. So matching the taper exactly is irrelevant.

 

[piman]

Hello Bill,

put the bearing in the chuck, make sure it's running true then with a clock gauge on the crosslide, adjust the angle until the clock doesn't move as you run up and down the taper.

Alec

 

[taycat]

my taper sect isn't tight fit , was wondering about same angle's as if they are will save me working it out each time, as plan on making set up.

Badger i would use drift but mate's dad who it was for is one of these there is proper tool for the job for reason type's.
and as the bearings go often on equipment it came off, could be looking at some fairly regular money, so thought better make tool.
besides got time on lathe and he paid for ali.

 

[taycat]

I've got a proper set, but no way to measure the angle. Unless you want the diameter at each end of the taper and the length to do some fancy maths I struggled to manage...

that would be great cheers, just 2 will do as if same imagine they all will be.

 

[Sidewinder]

The angle can be different, it relates to the relationship between the design angular & radial load.
Common angles are from 10 to 27 degrees (Timken).

 

[taycat]

ah, ok.
one i did was 10 deg will measure each one as i need them then, ta

 

[Bill Edwards]

that would be great cheers, just 2 will do as if same imagine they all will be.

Diameter at the large end: 36mm
Diameter at the small end: 33.9mm
Length of tapered part: 7mm

Not really needed, but as extra info the lip that's used for installing seals if you turn the tool around is 39.6mm.

Diameter at the large end: 58.7mm
Diameter at the small end: 53.7mm
Length of tapered part: 10mm

Not really needed, but as extra info the lip that's used for installing seals if you turn the tool around is 65mm.

They're Snap-on, so it's probably correct to think they've spent time figuring out the best angle for most jobs and got it right.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Hello Bill,

put the bearing in the chuck, make sure it's running true then with a clock gauge on the crosslide, adjust the angle until the clock doesn't move as you run up and down the taper.

Alec

That's an excellent idea, I don't have access to a suitable lathe right now but it's a very handy tip to remember.

 

[taycat]

thats great cheers, will sort angle later.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Perhaps I can help with the maths (by avoiding it).
I got to a lathe today which was big enough to take a small installer, and using the method given by piman I got a reading of 10 degrees off the crosslide.

 

[taycat]

snap only i worked it out on paper with ruler and protractor.
which is what i made mine to.
nice to get it confirmed though.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Nice to see things actually add up!

 

[awemawson]

All you need is a stepped drift - no need for faffing about with a taper. NO WAY should you be driving taper bearings on the taper itself - very BAD PRACTICE.

 

[CRB]

If you have access to both sides, turn a rod which can pass through from one side, like a top hat.
A hole drilled or bored through to take a suitably sized length of studding or a bolt.
A turned billet which seats on the opposite end, again with the hole through.
Squeeze the bearing race into position. You could use the same tophat and vary the fittings for other races.

As indicated before, drive the shoulder and not the bearing surface.

 

[Bill Edwards]

I think this is getting a little complicated now.
I've installed bearings for years with just a hammer and a punch onto the shoulder, keep it even and don't go daft and it's generally easy, and I've certainly never had any problems or failures.

But I've recently bought a set of tools as it should speed things up and be a little easier for seals and hard things, and sometimes it might be used in the press to extract very tight bearings where I don't have suitably sized sockets to press evenly. I have managed for a long time without, but like an easier life (and shiny tools). But I wouldn't go far on making up something to do the job.

 

[Maker]

I agree that it sounds like bad practice to press on the tapered race of a bearing but if Snap On make tools to match the taper then there must be something to it.

Perhaps I can help with the maths (by avoiding it).
I got to a lathe today which was big enough to take a small installer, and using the method given by piman I got a reading of 10 degrees off the crosslide.

Perhaps I can help with the maths:

Sin(((MD-md)/2)/TL)= TA

Where MD is the major diameter, md is the minor diameter, TL is the length of the taper and TA is the angle. It looks really confusing written as one line so I'll write it properly and take a picture tomorrow.

 

[Bill Edwards]

I had to do that a long time ago to turn a taper to match another. I had to look up how to do it, although it is simple maths knowing how isn't something you remember unless you use it frequently or are studying in school!