bearing installer

[Wallace]

I agree that it sounds like bad practice to press on the tapered race of a bearing but if Snap On make tools to match the taper then there must be something to it.

Any loading on the bearing surfaces for installation is not good practice, I wouldn't be impressed with a Snap On tool that did so as any mark on a polished bearing surface can cause failure. Nowt wrong with a brass/copper/ali drift either depending on the installation, I often drift old roller or taper bearings out then break them apart, run the outer race across the linisher to reduce the diameter and use it to press the new bearing in.

 

[Badger1bear]

All you need is a stepped drift - no need for faffing about with a taper. NO WAY should you be driving taper bearings on the taper itself - very BAD PRACTICE.

Old Skool just like myself

 

[taycat]

never thought of stepped drift will pos knock one up instead when i get more ali.
one i made sits on top and taper sect as 1mm clearance so doesnt touch face at all

 

[Windy Miller]

Any loading on the bearing surfaces for installation is not good practice, I wouldn't be impressed with a Snap On tool that did so as any mark on a polished bearing surface can cause failure. Nowt wrong with a brass/copper/ali drift either depending on the installation, I often drift old roller or taper bearings out then break them apart, run the outer race across the linisher to reduce the diameter and use it to press the new bearing in.

I quite agree Wallace, very bad practice. I have always done it the way you do, but I normally cut through the outer race with an angle grinder so it pops out nice and easy. I have a whole load of different sizes in the garage all ready for use!

 

[Sidewinder]

It could be that the taper is a clearance fit in the bearing bore simply for approximate location.
Perhaps say a few thou down on diameter, and perhaps 1 degree more in taper or summat.
As has already been stated, I did not repeat it earlier because it had already been said, never drive on a bearing surface, ever to fit a bearing.
Having worked as a Staff Engineer at a bearing manufacturing plant, responsible for bearing production quality etc. I can say that we took a LOT of are over the quality of the running surfaces almost to the extent of verging on paranoia!
Another reason why you need to be careful on how the fitting forces are applied to say a standard deep groove bearing.
The fitting forces must never be transferred through the rolling elements in an anti-friction bearing.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

If you use a 1mm cutting disc on the old race would that then reduce diameter enough so it's a loose fit in the housing and can be used to drift in the new race ?

 

[Bill Edwards]

Well it will stop it being tight so it'll be ideal to drive it in. How easy it is to get out again will vary depending on the circumstances, but as long as it hasn't had to go in too far to get a good pair of pliers on it'll come out easily enough - if it's gone flush with the casing it wouldn't be quite as easy.

 

[Windy Miller]

If you use a 1mm cutting disc on the old race would that then reduce diameter enough so it's a loose fit in the housing and can be used to drift in the new race ?

Yep that's how I've always done it. Mind you, when I started doing it this way, there was no such thing as a 1mm cutting disc!

 

[MattF]

I agree that it sounds like bad practice to press on the tapered race of a bearing but if Snap On make tools to match the taper then there must be something to it.

Possibly a slight nub as a locator, to centre the punch, but I doubt it would be touching the working face as such otherwise. On the rare occasions I've done bearings, it's always been like the others, as in using something on the outer of the bearing. Making sure you tap it in straight is the main thing. You can quite easily cock that bit up no matter what method you, (or what tool you), use to do it.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Having bought it, i'm still waiting to actually use mine for something.

It'll be interesting to see how it fits against a bearing race - i.e whether the taper is mainly just guiding the tool which I suspect, rather than applying force onto the running surface.

 

[anto44]

I've used these before, the taper is a clearance fit in the bearing to locate it in the bearing. No force is applied to the bearing surface its applied to the shoulder of the bearing. I prefer to use a brass drift most of the time, as long as everything is clean and in good condition they should tap in very easy.