Bench grinder wire brush

[MysterG]

I have a bench grinder with a stone at either end which I hardly use. I was planning on swapping the stone at one end with a wire brush to give me more options for cleaning stuff up.
Bought a brush kit a while back which was brassy in colour, fitted ok using the supplied adapter bushings, but when fired up for the first time basically expanded in diameter (not equally) so it jammed against the guard/cover. With the cover off it was now totally unbalanced and caused huge vibrations. Sent it back.

Got a different one yesterday (steel coloured) which I just tried to fit. This time no supplied bushing of the right size so drilled one out to fit.
This one looked quite a bit thicker, not at the hub but the bristles seemed quite wide. This time with the cover on, the brush is so tight it refuses to turn under power, although you can turn it by hand.

Am I just unlucky with the crap wheels I have bought or is my grinder odd somehow? It takes 150mm diameter stones/brushes. It is quite an old cheap thing from one of the big chains 30+ years ago.

Dont really want to buy a new grinder which already has a wire brush fitted, but unless I can find a decent brush that fits I might just have to...

 

[Dilkris]

Not sure - my wire wheel is the most used item in my workshop - my wire wheels are nothing special (200mm) from one of the well known chains - grinder I think is an old Machine Mart unit - equally nothing special. If your grinder is 30 years old - keep it - it will cost you a lot of money to replace the quality.

However, whilst I do not suggest you do this, I run the wheels with the bench grinder covers removed as it gives me more access when working the piece. As and when you get your system sorted - ALWAYS wear eye protection as the tips of those wires do break away.... gloves I find restrictive and moreover get caught on the rotating wire wheels - they don't cut - but they do burn.....

 

[JOEPRO]

I recently bought a new draper 8 inch bench grinder. And a £30 draper brand wire wheel.

The draper wire wheel shook really bad and I could actually see the run out in it which must have been 3mm or so.

I sent that wire wheel back and bought a sonnenflex wire wheel for about half the price. Great range of adaptors with it and it spins silky smooth- massive difference.

 

[123hotchef]

Just remove the guard and rest

 

[JOEPRO]

As per pics I run mine with no guard. However I have used Grinders for 20+ years and I am very careful.

I wear welders gloves, leather apron and full face sheild when de rusting parts with it. Works fantastic and better ran without the cover for access etc only IF you are safety aware and don't take risks.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Just remove the guard and rest

That's not a tiring job, no need to take a breather afterwards.

@MysterG I too run mine without the guard - as others have said, be aware of the potential.

 

[MysterG]

So run without the guard seems to be the answer .... Hmmm.

Or make myself a more spacious guard perhaps ??? I'm more fearful of catching myself on it whilst using the grind stone at the other end.
Perhaps some sort of removeable cover to enclose it when not in use.

 

[Pete.]

I don't run mine without the guard. Not had any of the problems listed above but I will concur that only crazy people will use one of these without eye protection. When they are new, they also shed a lot of wires which easily go through overalls, jeans and skin.

 

[Screwdriver]

Wire wheel is safer without a guard and definitely without gloves in my opinion.

With a guard if you trap a finger between the wheel and the guard, instead of a light tickle on a bare wheel, your flesh will be flayed. To the bone. Very quickly.

Gloves are less cut and dried since there are so many different types but other than heat from the workpiece and a light tickle against your skin, there isn't that much to protect your hands from. I'm sure someone will put me right and suggest some material thing that you'd really want gloves for but I confidently predict I don't use that <whateveritis>.

Either way, guarded, gloved or sbn, you really need to be right on top of your game with a powerful wire wheel. They can grab and wrench the workpiece the instant you stop paying attention. Since a lot of my wirewheeling is with knife shaped bladed objects, I am 100% focussed at all times. I even do a double check mentally to make sure I know exactly how I am going to approach the wheel with the workpiece. Never "above centre" and never with a sharp edge perpendicular to the wheel, always at an angle so the brush runs off rather than running into where it grabs/twists.

The wire wheel is right up there with chainsaws and large angle grinders. They demand all of your attention, all of the time.

 

[Kerelise]

Had the same vibration problem with screwfix bought wire wheels - with the plastic insert. I used to g-clamp the grinder to a paving slab, but the vibration would always work it free. My solution was I picked an ancient Elliott Selecta grinder that was mounted on a very heavy stand. It runs lovely now (though suspect the bearings need replacing as some play in the “axle”. Have also removed the guards and rests - much prefer the item I’m de-rusting to slip and be flung into the bushes rather than trapped fingers. So, seems the weight of the grinder parts has a part to play too - newer ones under engineered?

 

[chunkolini]

I took the grinding wheel off the other end of the shaft to my wire wheel after a scare.
If you do get wheel snatch its way more violent with the added weight (,torque?) From the solid wheel.

 

[chunkolini]

Good points by Screwdriver about using the wheel, angle of approach etc. I learned this the semi hard way.
Ie no injuries but lots of projectiles.
I have a set of little plastic drawers with three holes in the front of it from missiles.
One of those benign looking tools that likes to damage body tissues.

 

[Pete.]

I took the grinding wheel off the other end of the shaft to my wire wheel after a scare.
If you do get wheel snatch its way more violent with the added weight (,torque?) From the solid wheel.

That's why I have a wire wheel one end and a polishing wheel the other. I use a guard and a tool rest on my wire wheel BTW.

 

[Screwdriver]

I took the grinding wheel off the other end of the shaft to my wire wheel after a scare.
If you do get wheel snatch its way more violent with the added weight (,torque?) From the solid wheel.

Good idea!

Angular momentum.

 

[Fazerruss]

I feel a crocodile Dundee sketch coming on....


That's not a wire brush, this is a wire brush
.....

 

[Fazerruss]

I still need to fit it. My other has only lasted 40 years

 

[bourbon]

try 'The Polishing shop' in Bridgetown Cannock. (they have a website and deliver) they will have everything you need and are free with their advice

 

[Screwdriver]

I still need to fit it. My other has only lasted 40 yearsView attachment 380739

You got your money's worth out of that one.

Looking at the guard though, can't help feeling anything that gets sucked under the wheel is going to get driven around the bend and fired out of the top...

 

[Agroshield]

Looking at the guard though, can't help feeling anything that gets sucked under the wheel is going to get driven around the bend and fired out of the top...

Interesting to see OEM solutions aimed at the industrial market where H&S legislation applies:

Optimum GU20B Grinder 1PH/3PH 0310-1610 | at Zoro

Optimum - GU20B Grinder 1PH/3PH available at Zoro.co.uk - UK's Leading Supplier of DIY Tools and Supplies'

www.zoro.co.uk

 

[Screwdriver]

Interesting to see OEM solutions aimed at the industrial market where H&S legislation applies:

Optimum GU20B Grinder 1PH/3PH 0310-1610 | at Zoro

Optimum - GU20B Grinder 1PH/3PH available at Zoro.co.uk - UK's Leading Supplier of DIY Tools and Supplies'

www.zoro.co.uk

With sufficient clearance, it shouldn't be an issue.

Looking at @Fazerruss second pic, looks to me like there's just enough room to squeeze a blade in there...

Certainly wouldn't want to be brushing your balls in there!