Bent Saxo vts

[LewisT]

Not got a lot to show since the previous post but have done some small things, bought jotun 90 last year accidentally bought the non wintergrade version so put off using it till now, anyone think this can is under filled?

Anyway on to the rest, never used two pack paint before in fact not ever done much painting before and the brush finish on the first use wasn't great. tackled these areas first as i need to the this back together to move forward

Stuff was mixed 3.5:1 i dont think i use enough thinners was really thick and didn't flat out very much.

The part is nearly ready to be welded back in, made a bit of a mistake in welding up the cuts on the ribs where i folded it, should have done this after spot welding to the chassis leg the angles on the flanges don't quite match the chassis leg so might cut them open again before welding it in.

You might also notice i have cut out the inner wing out again it looked crappy and wasn't happy with it, its only a flat piece with a few ribs down it not much of a problem to redo.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Jotun is thick, that's why it's great for chassis parts and other hidden areas. It is hard work to flat back, although perfectly OK to use it where finish is important.
For sunnyside you would be best with an automotive epoxy, Lechler, Mipa etc..

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

anyone think this can is under filled?

My epoxy floor paint was like that...it was so the hardener could be added and mixed easily.

 

[Brad93]

it's for easy of mixing with a paddle

 

[Dcal]

The tin is designed so the hardiner can be added and the whole lot activated.
They don't recommend part mixes but I have never mixed a full tin at home.
I use the ratios by weight from the SML site.

https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/uploads/files/library/files/2%20pack%20weights%200314.pdf

 

[LewisT]

Butt welded the piece for the chassis leg in used a copper backer where it flanges against the chassis leg so the back of the welds didn't protrude and cause it to not fit flush.

Also plug welded it along the back to the chassis leg sandwiched the two parts against a piece of angle iron to try get it nice and flat.

Still got the inside to plug weld theres also so excess needing trimmed away.

 

[LewisT]

Fully welded, trimmed and a coat of epoxy, rollering that stuff is the way to go got a far better finish compared to brushing.

Sitting on the floor is the part that attaches to the front of the chassis leg remade part of it and some epoxy for the inside that wont be accessible.

Next update the lower cross member and the chassis leg end will be welded back in.

 

[LewisT]

Been busy.

Pretty much all spot welds today they were on point apart for the odd one i didn't fully finish filling the hole and had to revisit.

Still got a bit of work to do on the chassis leg end from factory they smoosh it up to the outside of the chassis leg by crimping over the front face.

 

[Wildefalcon]

This is amazing work. You've picked up such skill. Very impressed.

 

[LewisT]

This is amazing work. You've picked up such skill. Very impressed.

Thank you, yes learned a lot, still much to learn, this was my first project knew nothing when i started and with the experience would do certain things differently in hind sight.

 

[Danez]

top work, hope I can get to your levels of skill in good time for my project

Glad to see this saxo being saved! Mental how few you see nowadays on the road compared to a few years back. I used to fantasize owning one with a bright orange max power style body kit as a first car

 

[LewisT]

hope I can get to your levels of skill in good time for my project

Just have a go, learned everything on this project, this site helped a wee tad too

Finished off the outside corner, smooshed over looks every bit the recycled hammer beaten panel it is, threw some of the front end on to see if everything still fit.

Still need to check if Citroen sell these feeling doubtful but if anyone could lend a hand at finding some suitable rubber isolators for the fan housing (picture below) its a rubber bung that has a top hat shaped bushing seen similar listed as motorcycle fairing grommets on ebay, some bmw ones seem very close.

 

[LewisT]

Have been doing a bit more work on the o/s inner wing, wait you say haven't you already done that well yeah Still had to plug weld it to the strut tower and i didn't like the gap that was there from factory once i had scrapped out the funky foam you could see light from above.

Cut a slit in the inner wing then plug welded it to the strut then carefully hammered over the other piece till they met up then welded it up happy with it now.

Ignorance is bliss they say, but i couldn't help scratch that itch and decided to redo the last part of the crappy repair.

When they repaired this before they had managed to cut a slice through the chassis leg at the top when removing part of the inner wing, so cut a small bit out and its just waiting for me to put a small patch in.

Should have just left it alone

 

[LewisT]

Previous work complete, had made two deep grooves being careless with a grinder on the inner wing and while stripping the underside for epoxy managed to make a hole so another small patch. Added a few blobs of weld here and there on existing seems where i didn't like the look of it, drilled a few holes for plug welding a piece of the engine mount back on.

Have the underside side stripped back plus the strut tower, fair bit of pitting on the strut top area not structurally compromised but there's still some rust in deep pits anyone suggest should i epoxy over it, treat it with rust converter?

 

[angellonewolf]

Previous work complete, had made two deep grooves being careless with a grinder on the inner wing and while stripping the underside for epoxy managed to make a hole so another small patch. Added a few blobs of weld here and there on existing seems where i didn't like the look of it, drilled a few holes for plug welding a piece of the engine mount back on.

Have the underside side stripped back plus the strut tower, fair bit of pitting on the strut top area not structurally compromised but there's still some rust in deep pits anyone suggest should i epoxy over it, treat it with rust converter?

seams mad to go to all that work and then leave rust in there

 

[minimutly]

A spot shot blaster would work, as would some phosphoric acid, maybe even both - acid first then blast it.
Good work, the car doesn't justify it imho, but as a learning project, can't fault it.

 

[LewisT]

seams mad to go to all that work and then leave rust in there

Yes not sitting well with me either

A spot shot blaster would work, as would some phosphoric acid, maybe even both - acid first then blast it.
Good work, the car doesn't justify it imho, but as a learning project, can't fault it.

Don't currently have a compressor(do have 3 phase incomer currently only 1 phase is fed from the fuses), isn't phosphoric acid difficult to obtain as a member of the public? Was thinking more along the lines of evaporust or dinitrol products am aware there are mixed opinions on them.

 

[minimutly]

The little Machine mart ones on single phase are ok for spot work. Guess I'm lucky I can get my hands on phosphoric in small quantities.

 

[LewisT]

Noticed a few pin holes on the o/s inner wing so another patch done, might weld up the two circular holes that serve no purpose.

Was some of the worst welding ive done, welder was being erratic and instead of investigating the problem stubbornly continued ( next day noticed the earth cable had come lose in the ground clamp).

Made a panel for the N/s inner wing got that welded in, welder now paying nicely also stuck the inner arch extensions back on. still have to plug weld along the bottom to the chassis leg.

 

[LewisT]

Trimmed and plug welded the inner wing to the chassis leg.

Plug welds were eyeballed and went where felt right.