Best silver solder

[graffian]

they are silver solder, dont know the grade

The ones I saw were a lot cheaper than the silver-flo55 type rods.

Just foud the page I looked at. Rods like THESE[URL="http://"][/url]

 

[mike os]

The stuff I have used didn't have much silver so may not have strictly been silver solder... the guys told me it improved flow and joint strength

 

[Kram]

Phosphorus copper rods are great for copper to copper but anything else, stainless, steel or brass makes a brittle joint.

 

[Seadog]

The ones I saw were a lot cheaper than the silver-flo55 type rods.

Just foud the page I looked at. Rods like THESE

I bought some from them a few days ago, now that everything that I find for soldering seems to need silver soldering

 

[Sean]

Nicked a whole lot of square silver solder, its a gold colour ( working in a big industrial Kitchen fit out and the Refrigeration boys had left a box behind...the wood perverts were using them to stir tea) Its lovely stuff and TIGs great, no flux. CuP7?
Other than that soft plumbing solder doesnt really like steels best for copper and brass.
Brazing flux i use is blue powder which i usually mix to a paste with water, label fell off long time ago.

[edit] not much help im afraid!

 

[Mikes]

Since the silver solder rods all look alike, I've got mine stored in lengths of plastic waste pipe with the grade and melting point written on the tube. Saves a whole load of grief - especially given the cost. I've also got a bundle of rods that I was given years ago and don't know the grade but these are kept for non critical joints.
Cup Alloys are the go-to place and have staff who know their stuff so can give you advice. At the Model Engineering shows, they normally give very good demonstrations and lectures.

 

[Brad93]

Shame you can’t get the Cadmium stuff any more

 

[HughF]

I use EasyFlo Stainless Steel grade flux for everything, it's just more reactive and gives better results. As for wire - whatever I have laying around from buying it at car boots in the 90's

Usually something from JM...

 

[mpats]

I've been using silverflo 55 recently to fairly good success. Not cheap but with a decent flux it really wicks into joints.

 

[Seadog]

I'm using some unknown solder with Easy-Flo No.2

Spot on joints every time, and I've done quite a few these last three months.

 

[fzr phil]

The climate centre in hutton/basildon/barking will have flux coated silver rods and easyflow flux powder, BOC would normally do silver rods as well. you would use them for copper to brass or steel, higher silver has lower melting point. joint must be clean and well fluxed by either dabbing on as a powder as you warm (with your rod) or even mixing into a paste with water and applying.
Non-coated rods can be given a flux jacket by warming and dipping in the powder as you go.
Assume you are using oxy-acetylene torch??
(Can get away with mapp torch for smaller joints)
Rothenberg S2 rods (square) are used more for copper to copper and shouldn't need extra flux
Knock off the flux before it fully cools and hardens, be careful not to burn the steel or vapourise the brass, they can't handle and shift the heat away like plain copper
Good luck
Phil

 

[fzr phil]

Something from that lot...