- Thread starter Mte320
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J.B. Welding
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The top coat comes off quite easy, but the primer powdercoat really takes the monkey, I did a quote job on some 19's from a local BMW dealer, NEVER AGAIN! Hours and hours each to get back to alloy, and awkward too. Thats with a big setup with lots air and grit. Best to do the bad bits and dust over the rest, then use a high build primer to level it all off again.
rtbcomp
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Best to do the bad bits and dust over the rest, That's exactly what I do for a local garage.
I read, that some People starts with sand and finish with glass or other fine media? You could do, grit that's sharp enough to shift the primer leaves a rough finish and there is a very real danger that you can gouge the ally.
I read, that some People starts with sand and finish with glass or other fine media? You could do, grit that's sharp enough to shift the primer leaves a rough finish and there is a very real danger that you can gouge the ally.
brightspark
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all i ever did was blast with j blast superfine@ 90psi to get the crap and coating off then go over with the sand your not recomended to use u get from wickes for 4 quid a bag 
that was good enough for priming and painting if not painting i just beadblasted them and it gave a nice smooth finish . tops it took 25 mins a wheel
that was good enough for priming and painting if not painting i just beadblasted them and it gave a nice smooth finish . tops it took 25 mins a wheelall i ever did was blast with j blast superfine@ 90psi to get the crap and coating off then go over with the sand your not recomended to use u get from wickes for 4 quid a bag
But you didnt use a dedicated "only alloy" cabinet? or did you do it outside
I have a 1500 litre blast cabinet, but i dont wont it to be alloy and stainless only. But im still a little scarred of rust on the alloy when using media thats blastet rust?
I use aluminiumoxyd for blasting
rtbcomp
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I've seen marker pen show through poor quality powder coating (even though the pen marks had been blasted off). I've not had any complaints about rust coming through paint or powder coating. I always advise my customers to give the parts a quick wipe over with fine abrasive paper to dislodge any embedded particles and use a rag soaked in thinners (or a tac rag) to get rid of dust.
Whats your blasting setup, compressor cfm, nozzle size?
brightspark
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if your using re usable grit keep some seperate for alloy and empty the hopper and refill .i sometimes open blast in a shed or in a couple of cabinets i have using sand and beadsBut you didnt use a dedicated "only alloy" cabinet? or did you do it outside
I have a 1500 litre blast cabinet, but i dont wont it to be alloy and stainless only. But im still a little scarred of rust on the alloy when using media thats blastet rust?
I use aluminiumoxyd for blasting
I been thinking of doing that. And buy another blast pot for alloy only
J.B. Welding
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all i ever did was blast with j blast superfine@ 90psi to get the crap and coating off then go over with the sand your not recomended to use u get from wickes for 4 quid a bag
Running 90cfm at 100psi in a booth, with medium glass media worked on most, even all, alloys up to the bmw's. Never seen anything like that stuff. Used a smaller siphon rig (with a grit starting with a c...(?) fine white powder?) to shine them up a bit. If they just get polished and not repainted don't alloys go all white and fuzzy quite quickly?
brightspark
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quite a lot i used to do with beadblast finish just sprayed them with clear laquer afterwards not realy the best but better than nowt . on my own rs alloys i sandblasted them 2k acid etched them high build primer then basecoat silvered them then 2k laquered and then polished they were well smart till some ba xxx tard nicked them
heres the finish using fine sand then beadblasting
I tried blasting some of the rims, and it actually went quite well. But there is a huge difference in the hardness on the coat.
First took a original mitsubishi (Fondmetal) and they were tough. After that a unoriginal vw rim. And that flew right off.
Only problem now is that i think that my homemade blasting pot seem to malfunction, if it doesnt have at certain amount of media in it??
First took a original mitsubishi (Fondmetal) and they were tough. After that a unoriginal vw rim. And that flew right off.
Only problem now is that i think that my homemade blasting pot seem to malfunction, if it doesnt have at certain amount of media in it??
brightspark
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[quote="Mte320, post: 530824, member:
Only problem now is that i think that my homemade blasting pot seem to malfunction, if it doesnt have at certain amount of media in it??[/quote]what setup have u made . re using grit doesnt help unless u coarse sive it 1st then sive the fine crap out before re filling allso moistures a factor have u a picture of it and giving a few measurements of hoses and jet size .
Only problem now is that i think that my homemade blasting pot seem to malfunction, if it doesnt have at certain amount of media in it??[/quote]what setup have u made . re using grit doesnt help unless u coarse sive it 1st then sive the fine crap out before re filling allso moistures a factor have u a picture of it and giving a few measurements of hoses and jet size .
