- Thread starter johnna
- Start date
Hang on a mo, if i read that correctly the specs say 16A fuse but the data plate says 68A max and 22.4A eff?
So, effectively I have been mis-sold this welder?
I expected this to be easy to use at home.
A 32amp supply will be fine for that 
If it's still popping fuses on that it's fecked... sling it back, get your money back & buy something like a Cebora Weldstar 190, proper machine for relatively little money Hopefully, all will be fine though on a dedicated supply.
weldequip
If it's still popping fuses on that it's fecked... sling it back, get your money back & buy something like a Cebora Weldstar 190, proper machine for relatively little money Hopefully, all will be fine though on a dedicated supply.weldequip
Thanks to all who have helped. I am really grateful.
The arc welder now has a 16amp blue plug feed from a 32amp mcb. The spare mcb seems to be B rated, from what I can see. The welder runs for much longer and I can actually get some welding done, but if I switch off/ on the welder on it's own on/off switch the mcb trips out. So I shall be purchasing a d rated item and I hope that will allow me to finally get going.
The arc welder now has a 16amp blue plug feed from a 32amp mcb. The spare mcb seems to be B rated, from what I can see. The welder runs for much longer and I can actually get some welding done, but if I switch off/ on the welder on it's own on/off switch the mcb trips out. So I shall be purchasing a d rated item and I hope that will allow me to finally get going.
Woody.v8
Blue gluer
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I'm sorry to say John but it does sound like the machine has a fault after all if it's tripping the 32A mcb. None of my machines trip any of my B curve breakers.
Not even the miller wozzer
Drains
Yeah, nah.
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Not even the miller wozzer
I don't think it counts as one of Wozzes machines... he's just looking after it until a proper owner turns up
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Not even the miller wozzer
Hehe, that doesn't really count cos It takes more juice than I have just to set that giant cooling fan in motion.
But yes, ok, technically speaking it does trip the breaker .What I should have said was none of the machines I use trip any of my breakers.
Might put the old girl up for sale soon, watch this space
.I'm sorry to say John but it does sound like the machine has a fault after all if it's tripping the 32A mcb
Aw bum and knickers! Knickers and bum!!!
The problems I have with returning it are:
a, it came from Jormany
b, I have chopped off the schuko plug, as it was a sealed unit surely he won't take it back after that?
c, I'm not sure I can argue what is wrong with it...
The on/off switch sometimes sees a little flash when I flip it.
Is it worth stripping the welder for a look see?
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Well John,
a) it was very cheap so not really worth spending money sending it back to 'Jormany'
b) that shouldn't really make any difference to a warranty claim as you bought it to be used in the UK on a 16A plug and they'll know that we can't use their plugs over here
c) maybe, maybe not, again if it's sent back and they deem it to be ok they'll most likely charge you for their re-delivery
and d) why didn't you tell us the on/off switch flashed from the start??
Hehe, take a look at the switch, I'd stake money on that being the cause of your woes!
a) it was very cheap so not really worth spending money sending it back to 'Jormany'
b) that shouldn't really make any difference to a warranty claim as you bought it to be used in the UK on a 16A plug and they'll know that we can't use their plugs over here
c) maybe, maybe not, again if it's sent back and they deem it to be ok they'll most likely charge you for their re-delivery
and d) why didn't you tell us the on/off switch flashed from the start??
Hehe, take a look at the switch, I'd stake money on that being the cause of your woes!
Well John,
a) it was very cheap so not really worth spending money sending it back to 'Jormany'
b) that shouldn't really make any difference to a warranty claim as you bought it to be used in the UK on a 16A plug and they'll know that we can't use their plugs over here
c) maybe, maybe not, again if it's sent back and they deem it to be ok they'll most likely charge you for their re-delivery
and d) why didn't you tell us the on/off switch flashed from the start??
Hehe, take a look at the switch, I'd stake money on that being the cause of your woes!
Thanks again for the reply Wozzaaah, I didn't spot any flash with the switch until today...
but as you say, it was exceptionally cheap, although it is very expensive for a welder that doesn't...
Tell you what though, I've learned a hell of a lot this last week! So thanks again.
I'll be taking a peek at that switch alright.
You'd have to read "The Machine Gunners" then ask Hilter...
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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I've had the portamig tripping a type B, though that was a 16 amp type B to be fair. And it only ever did it in freezing temperatures. Miller would trip a 40 amp type B on switch on, though it's got lots of big transformers and capacitors to fill up. That's fine on a 40 amp type D.
I guess a cheap or dodgy switch could make this sort of problem worse. If it runs on the type B then the type D would probably sort the switch on (allows higher amps for 100ms).
Though feels like a doubtful solution if the sales info says it'll be happy on a 16 amp fuse. Worth asking the sellers what they recommend.
I guess a cheap or dodgy switch could make this sort of problem worse. If it runs on the type B then the type D would probably sort the switch on (allows higher amps for 100ms).
Though feels like a doubtful solution if the sales info says it'll be happy on a 16 amp fuse. Worth asking the sellers what they recommend.
Well, today I removed the cover of the arc and fired it up. I flip-flopped the switch on and off. It did trip out once, but no sparks flashes or pops could be detected. So I set it up for the 2.6 rods and had some arc welding going on! No tripping the mcb!!!
I ran off a rod and a half, so I'm pretty happy.
The results were surprisingly good too. I'm going to upgrade to a type d mcb and see what happens.
Thanks again to everyone who posted.
I ran off a rod and a half, so I'm pretty happy.
The results were surprisingly good too. I'm going to upgrade to a type d mcb and see what happens.
Thanks again to everyone who posted.
Wrong data on machine
Your machine is a simple transformer type welding machine, it may be of 6KW but it's KVA that shows the current taken by machine will be 10 to 12 KVA because these type of machines have poor power factor due to their regulator type design, see big knove (item to adjust current) in front of machine. Hence it might take 43 to 52 Ampere at input.
See Model AS250 on http://www.sohalwelding.com/01-welding-machines-stick-ac-arc-welders.html
which is 12KVA.
And according to output specified on your machine:
Output Volt X Output Current = Output POWER
24 X 250 = 6 KW then divide it by power factor 0.5 it equals to 12 KVA. 48 Open circuit volt specified on your machine but I use 24 Volts which are welding volts at which welding process runs.
Note: Even ESAB (a company manufactures welding machines by buying technology from PANASONIC) prints 6KVA on a 21KVA machine.
Your machine is a simple transformer type welding machine, it may be of 6KW but it's KVA that shows the current taken by machine will be 10 to 12 KVA because these type of machines have poor power factor due to their regulator type design, see big knove (item to adjust current) in front of machine. Hence it might take 43 to 52 Ampere at input.
See Model AS250 on http://www.sohalwelding.com/01-welding-machines-stick-ac-arc-welders.html
which is 12KVA.
And according to output specified on your machine:
Output Volt X Output Current = Output POWER
24 X 250 = 6 KW then divide it by power factor 0.5 it equals to 12 KVA. 48 Open circuit volt specified on your machine but I use 24 Volts which are welding volts at which welding process runs.
Note: Even ESAB (a company manufactures welding machines by buying technology from PANASONIC) prints 6KVA on a 21KVA machine.
