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norlander
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I use corner clamps most of the time because I do not have a big flat surface welding bench, when I worked in a fab shop we had 1/2" plate topped benches, 8x4 foot or so-eazy peazy for tacking up summat like a frame.
My workshop floor aint flat, so I corner clamp stuff, and shim up the clamps if needed to keep the job true.
But back to OP, mitres is tha way to go for me, if not, butt joints and I weld a bit of flat on the open ends-I don't why, I just don't like open ends for some reason
My workshop floor aint flat, so I corner clamp stuff, and shim up the clamps if needed to keep the job true.
But back to OP, mitres is tha way to go for me, if not, butt joints and I weld a bit of flat on the open ends-I don't why, I just don't like open ends for some reason
daleyd
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You are surprised that on the website "Mig welding, the DIY guide" people aren't doing things like they do in a fab shop?
Richard.
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If I had to chose between an open end or a bit of flat welded in the end of the box to close it off I'd go with the open end. The closed off with a bit of flat idea just looks like an after thought.I use corner clamps most of the time because I do not have a big flat surface welding bench, when I worked in a fab shop we had 1/2" plate topped benches, 8x4 foot or so-eazy peazy for tacking up summat like a frame.
My workshop floor aint flat, so I corner clamp stuff, and shim up the clamps if needed to keep the job true.
But back to OP, mitres is tha way to go for me, if not, butt joints and I weld a bit of flat on the open ends-I don't why, I just don't like open ends for some reason
norlander
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yeah, I know what you mean, it does not look as bad as it sounds when the weld is ground off and abit of a chamfer ground on-I did on some gym equipment where box uprights were butted up to box base, someone said the open ends looked spooky because commercial kit has plastic plugs inserted in open ends, so I tabbed the ends up and its become a habit
.Come to think of it tho, I think someone on here might have posted up a supplier of the plastic plugs for box section? that would be quick to do and look much more professional.
GrumpyOne
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roofman
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Horses for courses...a fabricator would be faster tacking the corners of a mitre without the clamps but the fabricator could,nt strip and re-roof a garage roof in a saturday morning and be eating his dinner at home by the fire before 2pm either 
Kent
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You are surprised that on the website "Mig welding, the DIY guide" people aren't doing things like they do in a fab shop?
Yes, some of these ways I read detailed here are nothing I have ever seen or indeed had any reason to see or had detailed on a drawing. Are you saying people think they can learn all they need to know from a forum because quite obviously you cant. Of course you never really 100% know how many know and don't know and who is a middle aged skilled man and who is actually a 13 yr old boy who has watched a lot of u-tube etc.
You know its quite interesting that so many people around the world post on u-tube etc. how to pass a positional pipe work test but very little is out there on the simple stuff, like how to form simple joints and joins in box and sheet. You might think most people out there about to sit a pipe test already know the base of how without looking on the net and so had no need of it, yes I am surprised I think I took it for granted before ready this thread that little could really be said about the bread and butter stuff
Now I am thinking of it I might actually do something myself on the basics, perhaps it just not glamorous enough
daleyd
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No I'm saying it's not surprising that people use different methods when joining some bits of metal in their back yard with limited tools and knowledge (I myself don't have the benefit of working in fabrication for years, I'm a hobby welder as I imagine a few others are on here) as opposed to a fab shop or somewhere geared up for fabrication.
Kent
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Yet some of these ways mentioned are actually far harder and need more tools. Just trying to make things easy, some bad cases of over thinking the problem going on. Trust me not all fab shops have all the kit and thousands of pounds worth of fixture benches, quite the opposite you often need to fight for the better c cramp and end up working on the floor (after spending a good bit of time clearing a suitable spot and sweeping up)
daleyd
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But they do generally have the benefit of years worth of experience which is worth much more than a pile of kit.
My point being that a fair few of us don't have either and therefore things like corner clamps etc are a godsend, even of not used in a pro setting.
I for one really appreciate the tips you can pick up from the pros such as yourself but experience you can't gain overnight, as im sure you know all too well.
My point being that a fair few of us don't have either and therefore things like corner clamps etc are a godsend, even of not used in a pro setting.
I for one really appreciate the tips you can pick up from the pros such as yourself but experience you can't gain overnight, as im sure you know all too well.
Kent
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It is actually very easy stuff that's quick to learn, no voodoo or strange ritualization processes. Don't get me wrong I have clamps and am not against using them , like I said in the thread I own some. Personally after leaving the trade for many years there is a lot I have forgotten (the bits I rarely did in the main) and have to look up the how to again before starting such a task, others I had to practice a while before I was up to speed. Like I say there are books available that cover everything from the basic to the very advanced.
How to join SHS is easy learnt, actually doing it takes a little practice not years though by any means
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In the spirit of DIY welding jobs, just pointing out that anyone should be able to tack a frame up without spending a fortune on special corner clamps.
How many people have gone out and bought 4 corner clamps, because they think thats how the professionals would go about it?
Not saying usng them is wrong, more the fact that I havn't seen one in any fab shop i've been in in years.
For me, the majority of the work I tend to do wouldn't fit in one anyway.
I know @TIG Paul uses a homemade corner jig for tacking frames together sometimes. Tig is the sort of thing where they are much more use.
Tacking a frame up square is one of the simplest things you could learn.
Accuracy when cutting the components is key, if you cut the mitres properly, and the lengths are equal for each set of sides, you cant get it far wrong.
The mitred cut will give you a clue as to the squareness of the corner, tack all 4 corners, one small tack on the outsides corner, measure the diagonals, if they are equal, and you've cut the pieces accurately it will be square. Once its square, tack the opposite corners, then the rest, and weld it up.
No fancy sawing machinery required, just very basic marking gear- just a square, rule, and scribe. Protractors/combi squares make mitres easier, but not essential.
This sort of thing is exactly what forums are about.... you hear how others go about things, and can get a lot of knowledge that way from numerous sources. You may well pick up an easier way of doing things, or find a new method to try and decide you wondered what you were ever doing.
How many people have gone out and bought 4 corner clamps, because they think thats how the professionals would go about it?
Not saying usng them is wrong, more the fact that I havn't seen one in any fab shop i've been in in years.
For me, the majority of the work I tend to do wouldn't fit in one anyway.
I know @TIG Paul uses a homemade corner jig for tacking frames together sometimes. Tig is the sort of thing where they are much more use.
Tacking a frame up square is one of the simplest things you could learn.
Accuracy when cutting the components is key, if you cut the mitres properly, and the lengths are equal for each set of sides, you cant get it far wrong.
The mitred cut will give you a clue as to the squareness of the corner, tack all 4 corners, one small tack on the outsides corner, measure the diagonals, if they are equal, and you've cut the pieces accurately it will be square. Once its square, tack the opposite corners, then the rest, and weld it up.
No fancy sawing machinery required, just very basic marking gear- just a square, rule, and scribe. Protractors/combi squares make mitres easier, but not essential.
This sort of thing is exactly what forums are about.... you hear how others go about things, and can get a lot of knowledge that way from numerous sources. You may well pick up an easier way of doing things, or find a new method to try and decide you wondered what you were ever doing.
Mid Wales welder
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Another reason for going just a touch over lol
Wedg1e
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A decent fabricator would have a frame tacked together in the time you wou;d have clamped the two bits together in one of them
TBH I thought 4 would be ideal but I've only ever used two; made two right-angles and then welded them together still using only two!
Wedg1e
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I can cut beautifully straight (marked) lines at any angle you want, freehand with a 4.5" grinder, but somehow it gets a bit lost in translation as soon as a welding torch is added to the mix.
Good job I'm a bank clerk
norlander
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Nice one, thanks for that, at a quick glance, looks like some of the plugs have threaded inserts for castors and making joints- so you can bin the welder now
Bede
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I hate mitred joints. Too fiddly. Much easier to cap off to size then butt the perpendicular member to it, leaving a small gap as relief for moving for squaring. Always cut internal members 2mm short for this reason. You can spend forever and a day building accurately from mitres.
Richard.
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Really? I don't think you get much simpler personally. If your cut is a good, accurate 45 degree then butted up it will be square. Quick check and tack and your on your way. My saw has a gage on the side for angles and it's accurate enough to make true cuts. I like mitres they look tidy too when dressed up.
