brake caliper tool

[zeppelin builder]

i think that a better solution would be screwed in or similar stainless liners to match the pistons, im sure someone was doing this for Dunlop calipers used on classic jaguars

 

[tom2207]

I piece of wood always is advisable, they really do come out with a bang.

Those VAG calipers with the handbrake mech are prone to seizing, make sure you clean that mech up. There used to be a return spring from a Ford Granada caliper we fitted to Golfs and Corrados back in the day as it was stronger.

@zeppelin builder I was always intrigued how the handbrake mech worked too. It's quite a clever but simple system the way it ratchets, we fitted the Granada springs because if it didn't return properly the ratchet didn't reset.

Wish Id known that a few years ago ,, the hand brake on my Corrado only ever used to work for a week ,, that was the week after mot , then it seized up for another 11 months , was quite common to come back and find your car ten feet away from where you parked it , so it was always in gear , and wheels pointing at the kerb .

Another vote for Big Red , ive an A6 allroad , with Lucas brakes , aka the big brakes , and they supplied replacement seals and pistons , all great quality and perfect fit ,and at a really great price too .

 

[eddie49]

i think that a better solution would be screwed in or similar stainless liners to match the pistons, im sure someone was doing this for Dunlop calipers used on classic jaguars

Yes, Jag Mk II calipers, the stainless liners are Loctited in.

 

[JohnH]

That’s where brake piston pliers come in handy, especially with opposing pistons

https://www.24mx.co.uk/motocross-ac...gVrzIthbNVN650CoBRBoCd-EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Maybe, but in this example 6000psi wouldnt remove the pistons, so 200 ft/lbs wont do much, and yes I do have genuine ATE pliers.

i think that a better solution would be screwed in or similar stainless liners to match the pistons, im sure someone was doing this for Dunlop calipers used on classic jaguars

It maybe a solution after the initial disassembly problem has taken place, but I truly believe the simple and cheap solution is Red Rubber Grease used during assembly. These calipers were originally supplied by a reputable company, but like all suppliers they use brake fluid as the lubricant during assembly, which may be okay for a car used on a daily basis, but for those used infrequently it causes problems.

These are one of the calipers,



It looks good inside the cylinder but beyond the seal, not so good.

Assembly using Red Rubber Grease

 

[500e]

Can remember struggling with those early Mk Jag & AH Calipers

 

[armalites]

Maybe, but in this example 6000psi wouldnt remove the pistons, so 200 ft/lbs wont do much, and yes I do have genuine ATE pliers.

It maybe a solution after the initial disassembly problem has taken place, but I truly believe the simple and cheap solution is Red Rubber Grease used during assembly. These calipers were originally supplied by a reputable company, but like all suppliers they use brake fluid as the lubricant during assembly, which may be okay for a car used on a daily basis, but for those used infrequently it causes problems.

They must have been in there good and proper and I wonder if the fact the pistons were stainless made a difference because the corrosion was focused in one place. I've only had to use grease once and it was on a set of Defender 110 calipers that looked like they were found on a beach.

I've always used silicon grease or red rubber grease on the pistons,bores and seals. Using brake fluid is so messy..

I find rebuilding calipers really enjoyable but I guess that would wear off pretty quick if you worked at Big Red or somewhere like that

 

[JohnH]

They must have been in there good and proper and I wonder if the fact the pistons were stainless made a difference because the corrosion was focused in one place. I've only had to use grease once and it was on a set of Defender 110 calipers that looked like they were found on a beach.

I've always used silicon grease or red rubber grease on the pistons,bores and seals. Using brake fluid is so messy..

I find rebuilding calipers really enjoyable but I guess that would wear off pretty quick if you worked at Big Red or somewhere like that

The calipers were bought as a pair, in 2001, but I only discovered that one had Stainless pistons and the other iron after I disassembled them in 2015. The "iron" caliper came apart without any problems. The rebuilt pair are currently doing service on a road rally car in Scotland. No complaints so far!

Like you, I really enjoy refurbing calipers. I guess we both have issues

 

[RichardM]

Believe it or not, they were stainless pistons, that cleaned up ok.

Do they have what look like location pegs on the pistons?

Have you found a paint which isn't effected by brake fluid?

 

[tom2207]

Do they have what look like location pegs on the pistons?

Have you found a paint which isn't effected by brake fluid?

Is it maybe the fluid inlet port your seeing .

 

[8ob]

Maybe, but in this example 6000psi wouldnt remove the pistons, so 200 ft/lbs wont do much, and yes I do have genuine ATE pliers.



It maybe a solution after the initial disassembly problem has taken place, but I truly believe the simple and cheap solution is Red Rubber Grease used during assembly. These calipers were originally supplied by a reputable company, but like all suppliers they use brake fluid as the lubricant during assembly, which may be okay for a car used on a daily basis, but for those used infrequently it causes problems.

These are one of the calipers,



It looks good inside the cylinder but beyond the seal, not so good.

Assembly using Red Rubber Grease

Nice work John.

Bob

 

[RichardM]

Is it maybe the fluid inlet port your seeing .

No it's not in the caliper body, but on the piston as above. Just never seen them before on bikes or cars I've done.

 

[tom2207]

View attachment 233606

No it's not in the caliper body, but on the piston as above. Just never seen them before on bikes or cars I've done.

Ah , sorry missed that ,, nope , but its a good idea , be better with two , then you could put a bar across and give them a wiggle for taking them out ,, range rover ones i just weld a bar across the pistons , granted they are not getting used again but some times its enough to get them out ,

 

[RichardM]

I use a rawlbolt with a split adapter, (have lathe) put the split adapter into the piston, rawlbolt in the middle, do it up, rawlbolt expands adapter making it relatively easy to pull out.

 

[tom2207]

like a bearing puller , great idea , Ill knock something up and give it a go ,, 2ft bar is very common on range rovers , beats me how they get so stuck.

 

[RichardM]

Tight persons version of one of these

 

[500e]

Never liked silicon fluid

 

[northwest]

Keeping on topic (sort of) went to my pal's yesterday to replace the discs and pads on the Asteroid. All pre arranged, all prepared discs an pads "on location" proper set up four post - everything.

Had to hang around for four hours while the driver from Europarts brought a service exchange caliper. Some things you just can't anticipate :-(