Buffing paint

[langy]

Just my opinion mate

1. G6 is coarser than G3, Nope its G6-G3-G10, the numbers don't go as you think they would.
2. yes i like the paste but also like the G3 liquid
3. I don't wax until a month has gone by at least, then i use Meguirs Gold.

Hi Langy; long time lurker but i have a few questions if you dont mind shedding some light on:

1) i thought G3 had greater cutting power than G6? in my mind would it not be G3 > G6 > G10 > Polish?

2) do you think the paste cuts better than the liquid versions?

3) if the panel was just painted; i thought you could not wax it or put a sealant on it as the paint hasn't fully cured? or can you use certain waxes?

 

[Raf]

thanks mate for your advice; will have to try out G6. i tried out the G3 liquid stuff and didnt like it; the paste cuts much quicker using the same pad and you use much less of the paste too. less fling/mess from it also.

 

[marc.w]

Sorry about hijacking this thread but it is related to buffing....

I have some carbon fibre parts that have been clearcoated with 2k clear. I have rubbed them down with 1200 w&d and am now ready to compound/polish them. I have just purchased a Chicago Pneumatics mini polisher kit, this kit came with a wool buffing head and 2 foam compound heads, a yellow hard one and a softer white one. I will be using Farecla Profile 300 compound. Could you please tell me which head would be best for compounding these parts?

 

[jaykay]

i like lambs wool.but others may differ.
unless your expierianced,use soft.

 

[langy]

I will be tough going removing 1200 scratches, further flatting needed using 1500 & 2000, The mini polishers are usually for tight areas and small bits not for big panels.
I prefer the foam to start with then switching to lambs wool mop for finishing.

Sorry about hijacking this thread but it is related to buffing....

I have some carbon fibre parts that have been clearcoated with 2k clear. I have rubbed them down with 1200 w&d and am now ready to compound/polish them. I have just purchased a Chicago Pneumatics mini polisher kit, this kit came with a wool buffing head and 2 foam compound heads, a yellow hard one and a softer white one. I will be using Farecla Profile 300 compound. Could you please tell me which head would be best for compounding these parts?

 

[langy]

Just don't go leaning on the G6 too much.

thanks mate for your advice; will have to try out G6. i tried out the G3 liquid stuff and didnt like it; the paste cuts much quicker using the same pad and you use much less of the paste too. less fling/mess from it also.

 

[marc.w]

I will be tough going removing 1200 scratches, further flatting needed using 1500 & 2000, The mini polishers are usually for tight areas and small bits not for big panels.
I prefer the foam to start with then switching to lambs wool mop for finishing.

Oh.. Farecla's website says that Profile 300 is good for removing upto 1000 scratches, so I thought it would deal with 1200 no problem. I will give it a go with the soft foam pad and if need be will get some 1500 and 2000 grit next week. These are only small parts hence why I bought the mini polisher.

 

[Raf]

marc; test an area with different combo's then go with the one that gives you the best correction. never used that compound so cannot say how tough it is but agree with langy; further refine the scratches; its just makes buffing easier.

personally i use the lambs wool at the polishing stage but they can be used to cut too. i use standard farecla foam compounding heads for G3 & G10. then lambs wool with AG super resin polish/final glaze.

i have a waffle type head that i bought for polishing but the wool works best for me.

 

[superfly]

This may help you http://www.nsra.org.uk/newforum/showthread.php?t=43735&highlight=colour+sanding

This is amazing Langy, I like your finish a lot.

About the wax, I thought it has to apply only when it is fully cured after about 3 weeks? or I misunderstood something which is possible

Otherwise, I see that you are using a makita polisher so I am wondering what is the exact reference ? I looked it up on the net before but I quickly get lost about this....

If you have the reference it will be deadly.

Thanks for that link, the finish does look the business