Burying copper pipe in screed

[Olderisbetter]

I try never to use copper in floors but if you have to do it use duct tape, I used 2 layers on the last pipe i fitted into concrete, If i was doing it for myself i would use 22mm plastic pipe and put the 15mm in side it.

 

[dobbslc]

The 16mm Al Pex seems a bit OTT and a pain to get the radiator valves for. I'll look at using normal Pex but how do it get a nice straight radiator tail coming out of the floor?

 

[ajlelectronics]

The 16mm Al Pex seems a bit OTT and a pain to get the radiator valves for. I'll look at using normal Pex but how do it get a nice straight radiator tail coming out of the floor?

I left my heating engineer to sort the bathroom radiator. He used loosely clipped plastic in the stud wall and changed to copper to emerge. I drilled the tiles to 30mm to suit. That was so that the tails can be moved about to accommodate the radiator. Note that the bottom row of tiles are not yet fitted, just placed there, before anyone complains about my workmanship!

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I left my heating engineer to sort the bathroom radiator. He used loosely clipped plastic in the stud wall and changed to copper to emerge. I drilled the tiles to 30mm to suit. That was so that the tails can be moved about to accommodate the radiator. Note that the bottom row of tiles are not yet fitted, just placed there, before anyone complains about my workmanship!

View attachment 163807

That's the way I'd go too.
Trying not to notice the lippage on bottom left and right tiles though.

 

[ajlelectronics]

That's the way I'd go too.
Trying not to notice the lippage on bottom left and right tiles though.

You mean the ones that are merely placed in position and not yet fixed? ;-) I only bored the holes yesterday, so will be in there tomorrow. I used my pillar drill on the sink unit with a diamond hole cutter. A cup of water to lubricate and it went well.

 

[dobbslc]

I can't have any fitting buried in the screed though. The reason I thought the solstice coated pipe would be good is because its protected from the concrete and can be formed into a straight bit above the floor level.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I can't have any fitting buried in the screed though. The reason I thought the solstice coated pipe would be good is because its protected from the concrete and can be formed into a straight bit above the floor level.

The only way would be to hold the plastic pipes in position while it cures. The plastic will not bend very tightly though which could give you an issue. I think that I would use copper inside conduit and form the bend in a piece of straight pipe.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

You mean the ones that are merely placed in positon and not yet fixed? ;-) I only bored the holes yesterday, so will be in there tomorrow. I used my pillar drill on the sink unit with a diamond hole cutter. A cup of water to lubricate and it went well.

il sleep easier now. Unavoidable sometimes.
Had a whole batch of tiles with a bow in to be laid brick set. What a nightmare that was.

 

[HughF]

No reluctance I just never thought of it!


Pex Al Pex! Now I'm confused! What's the difference between Pex & Pex Al Pex?

PEX = speedfit etc
PEX-AL-PEX = underfloor heating pipe, bends easier because of the aluminium layer inside but is 16mm od

 

[gaz1]

heres my comment concrete has changed over the years its not the same as it once was hence the reason why theres more problems nowadays with copper pipe and concrete also copper pipe has changed to a thinner copper pipe

old plumbers or people who have come across old copper pipe buried in concrete will know what i mean

the old pipe was lagged in a wool mixture this is to stop heat bleed into the concrete in another words sucking the heat out of the pipe before it gets to its destination

the old pipe had this stuff around it

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pipe-Insulation-Lagging-Wool-Felt-Wrap-7m-Long-Roll-/111808968456

was good in the olden days not your pex crap or the new plastic closed cell lagging had the same question asked by younger types like i explained then you need a very close cell lagging not onse you would use for normal lagging of copper pipe but one with high heat retention but also able to stop concrete getting through the lagging

the old way was perfectly adapt to the concrete and buried in the floor and like whats been said it has come out looking like new

it was just a royal pain rolling it around the pipes and a good 10 lengths and you was really peeved off with it

https://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techcorner/problem_embedding_copper_concrete.html

this is the other one where you could slot it all the way down the pipe

https://plumbingsuppliesdirect.co.uk/davant-tubular-hair-felt-pipe-lagging-7-2-meters/

then you also use the roll as a secondary cover but has really good insulation propertys

I hope that info of the old way is good info to you you dont see it much its down to speed get the job done and go but customer is just as bad in not wanting to pay for the time

kayos thats the old way method

if you dont think it has good thermal propertys then take a look at this same stuff just carpet underlay instead

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-Thi...7183b7ad:m:mG3zrvQ538hkuzXVTq1Qt_A:rk:18:pf:0

with 2 layers this is its thermal insulation property

 

[FoxZulu]

'Tectite' multi-layer-composite pipe is available in 15 & 22mm diameters, so is compatible with standard fittings. It is also very nice to work with.

 

[dobbslc]

What sort of fittings can be used on Tectite?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Any I believe. Don't forget insets if required.